Crower Prelude Camshafts
Has anyone ever purchased any cams for the H23 from Crower? I'm in the market for some cams for my H23 and wanted to get someones review on them first. Any comments/ info will be greatly appreciated. I wanted to get the stage one cams but don't know how much duration clearance I have between the valves and TDC of my pistons.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dk4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone ever purchased any cams for the H23 from Crower? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Like Blake said. I did. So did SUB-0 H23 and 92preludesi and a few others.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dk4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any comments/info will be greatly appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They made good power for me but I am about as not "stock" as you can get. With anything other than the stage 1s you'll need valvetrain. I chose not to use Crower's valvetrain in lieu of their cost.
In my opinion I would not get the stage ones. You can get regrinds that will probably do as well for far less than the New Crower cores. But I only have experience on the stage 3s so I could be very wrong. It just seems like a pretty mild cam for the price.
I'd also bump the compression a lot unless you're interested in spraying or boost to get the torque up. You'll peak power before 6500rpm so you need all the torque you can get before it drops off bad at 5300rpm.
Tuning will be your best friend regardless of your choice. Remember that. Stock ECUs will work but you won't realize full potential and you'll be disappointed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dk4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wanted to get the stage one cams but don't know how much duration clearance I have between the valves and TDC of my pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll have A LOT of clearance.
Pirate
Like Blake said. I did. So did SUB-0 H23 and 92preludesi and a few others.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dk4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any comments/info will be greatly appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They made good power for me but I am about as not "stock" as you can get. With anything other than the stage 1s you'll need valvetrain. I chose not to use Crower's valvetrain in lieu of their cost.
In my opinion I would not get the stage ones. You can get regrinds that will probably do as well for far less than the New Crower cores. But I only have experience on the stage 3s so I could be very wrong. It just seems like a pretty mild cam for the price.
I'd also bump the compression a lot unless you're interested in spraying or boost to get the torque up. You'll peak power before 6500rpm so you need all the torque you can get before it drops off bad at 5300rpm.
Tuning will be your best friend regardless of your choice. Remember that. Stock ECUs will work but you won't realize full potential and you'll be disappointed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dk4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wanted to get the stage one cams but don't know how much duration clearance I have between the valves and TDC of my pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll have A LOT of clearance.
Pirate
You're just unhappy that your poor Vtak H22 only made little girl torque. I saw it. Little girlies were on your dyno sheet. And there might have been a fuzzy cat in there somewhere. 
Care to describe what detracted from the success of my build, Matt?
Pirate

Care to describe what detracted from the success of my build, Matt?
Pirate
You gets no girls without those little fuzzy cats.
Plus, I don't need torque to push the bishes back in the seat, I just push em in the back seat.
(If teh sarcasm isn't apparent, my car would contain a pirate engine if it wasn't for the horrible onset of obd2 and inspection laws)
Plus, I don't need torque to push the bishes back in the seat, I just push em in the back seat.

(If teh sarcasm isn't apparent, my car would contain a pirate engine if it wasn't for the horrible onset of obd2 and inspection laws)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You gets no girls without those little fuzzy cats.
Plus, I don't need torque to push the bishes back in the seat, I just push em in the back seat.
(If teh sarcasm isn't apparent, my car would contain a pirate engine if it wasn't for the horrible onset of obd2 and inspection laws)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahaha.....VTEC owner jealous of Non-VTEC owner.....this is a 1st!
New nickname.....Pirate the Pimp!
Now go get vtak!
Plus, I don't need torque to push the bishes back in the seat, I just push em in the back seat.

(If teh sarcasm isn't apparent, my car would contain a pirate engine if it wasn't for the horrible onset of obd2 and inspection laws)
</TD></TR></TABLE>Hahaha.....VTEC owner jealous of Non-VTEC owner.....this is a 1st!
New nickname.....Pirate the Pimp!
Now go get vtak!
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I did one better. I went and got i-VtAk.
Then I made sure it was RWD.
Then I made sure the chassis was less than a ton.
Now I have a Winter project for 190+wtq and 3 useless gears...

Pirate
Then I made sure it was RWD.
Then I made sure the chassis was less than a ton.
Now I have a Winter project for 190+wtq and 3 useless gears...

Pirate
So tel me if this will work.
H22 Type-S Pistons
Crower stage 3 Camshafts
???? Titanium Valve springs and retainers
Balanced Crankshaft
Will I have piston to valve contact or will I be ok? I could always go with a milder camshaft for less lift. But I'm not sure. Preciate the info.
H22 Type-S Pistons
Crower stage 3 Camshafts
???? Titanium Valve springs and retainers
Balanced Crankshaft
Will I have piston to valve contact or will I be ok? I could always go with a milder camshaft for less lift. But I'm not sure. Preciate the info.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dk4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So tel me if this will work.
H22 Type-S Pistons
Crower stage 3 Camshafts
???? Titanium Valve springs and retainers
Balanced Crankshaft
Will I have piston to valve contact or will I be ok? I could always go with a milder camshaft for less lift. But I'm not sure. Preciate the info. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I doubt that will work, but we'll wait on pirate's post for the verdict, he may have tried it.
On his setup, the regular h22 pistons were close enough, you're probably going to have to put it together and clay it to know for sure.
H22 Type-S Pistons
Crower stage 3 Camshafts
???? Titanium Valve springs and retainers
Balanced Crankshaft
Will I have piston to valve contact or will I be ok? I could always go with a milder camshaft for less lift. But I'm not sure. Preciate the info. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I doubt that will work, but we'll wait on pirate's post for the verdict, he may have tried it.
On his setup, the regular h22 pistons were close enough, you're probably going to have to put it together and clay it to know for sure.
It'd be tight on the piston to head clearance at elevated RPMs but the cams would clear. Just don't retard your exhaust cam much.
I am not sure why you want 13:1 compression though. That's fine if you're running naught but E85 or race gas on the street. I wouldn't try it on 91 octane though.
I am not sure why you want 13:1 compression though. That's fine if you're running naught but E85 or race gas on the street. I wouldn't try it on 91 octane though.
i'd thought about going with a stage 1 cam, to get that push past 5300....especially when i'm on nitrous all the power falls off at 5500
maybe a stage 1 a crome
p.s. who does cam regrinds? Delta, Web, who else?
maybe a stage 1 a crome
p.s. who does cam regrinds? Delta, Web, who else?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You gets no girls without those little fuzzy cats.
Plus, I don't need torque to push the bishes back in the seat, I just push em in the back seat.
(If teh sarcasm isn't apparent, my car would contain a pirate engine if it wasn't for the horrible onset of obd2 and inspection laws)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn matt you got it like that. im bout to start chillin with you more often
Plus, I don't need torque to push the bishes back in the seat, I just push em in the back seat.

(If teh sarcasm isn't apparent, my car would contain a pirate engine if it wasn't for the horrible onset of obd2 and inspection laws)
</TD></TR></TABLE>damn matt you got it like that. im bout to start chillin with you more often
Over the last 25000 miles I am of the opinion that the stage 3's are not very user friendly for driving on the street. I also think that the Stage 1's are too expensive for what they are (low lift, low duration).
If I was truely dedicated to the nonVTEC platform for the street/commuter car I'd go with a Stage 2 Crower profile with vlavetrain and I'd build the block and head to maximise displacement and flow. 2.414 liters, 13.75:1 compression, E85-E100 fuel, P&P through out, custom header megaphoned up to a 3" exhaust. You'd get about the same power and torque as a K24A2 swap for about the same price or less. But I am not that dedicated and would rather spend the money on my new project.
Stage 3's are fun but for commuting (particularly stop and go driving below 2000 rpm in first gear) they can be a little frustrating, nonVTEC Stage 3's are NOT for eveyone.
H23A1 regrind options I know of:
(I have no personal experience with any of these people)
http://www.deltacam.com
http://www.webcamshafts.com
http://www.coltcams.com (website currently down)
http://www.gude.com
Another option: I don't think he specifically has an H23 grind but I have a feeling he can lead you in the right direction: http://www.bisimoto.com I think he gets his work done through webcamshafts FWIW.
I would also like to point out that for less than a set of shelf H22 cams from Crower you can get a *custom* H23 cam profile. You can get whatever you like. Staggering ramp rates, excessive lift, 230˚+ duration, split duration profiles, whatever.
Pirate
If I was truely dedicated to the nonVTEC platform for the street/commuter car I'd go with a Stage 2 Crower profile with vlavetrain and I'd build the block and head to maximise displacement and flow. 2.414 liters, 13.75:1 compression, E85-E100 fuel, P&P through out, custom header megaphoned up to a 3" exhaust. You'd get about the same power and torque as a K24A2 swap for about the same price or less. But I am not that dedicated and would rather spend the money on my new project.
Stage 3's are fun but for commuting (particularly stop and go driving below 2000 rpm in first gear) they can be a little frustrating, nonVTEC Stage 3's are NOT for eveyone.
H23A1 regrind options I know of:
(I have no personal experience with any of these people)
http://www.deltacam.com
http://www.webcamshafts.com
http://www.coltcams.com (website currently down)
http://www.gude.com
Another option: I don't think he specifically has an H23 grind but I have a feeling he can lead you in the right direction: http://www.bisimoto.com I think he gets his work done through webcamshafts FWIW.
I would also like to point out that for less than a set of shelf H22 cams from Crower you can get a *custom* H23 cam profile. You can get whatever you like. Staggering ramp rates, excessive lift, 230˚+ duration, split duration profiles, whatever.
Pirate
So for the everyday driver I should get stage 2- 3/4 race cams, or get custom cams made with the stage 3 int and exh duration but have the stage 2 lift. Oh and I calculated that with thos pistons in the h23 I would have 12.3:1 compression which can be ran on 93 octane.
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