I Bought a 2000 type R that was a theft recovery so everything was stolen from it. This is my first car I have ever rebuilt so I have some questions.

1, I bought 2006 rsx seats to put in it and I had to do a lot of modifications to the rails that left it unstable. Is there rails that I can buy to fit the frame and the seats both perfectly?

2, Also after buying the car and seats I didnt have a lot of money for an engine so instead of getting a ITR engine I got a civic sir second generation. Since the sir engine is jdm I had to extend the engine harness wires to the opposite side, but the plugs still fit perfectly. So my question is will everything work properly when I turn it on since there both dohc vtec? or will the fact that one is OBD1 and the other is OBD2 have an effect on it?

3. What is the best computer to go with for the set-up I have? Should I go type-R computer?

4. I heard the type R suspension is excellent. So is it worth buying that suspension or should I get something else?

Well I think that is it for now, I would greatly appreciate any help I can get. thanks everyone.

 

IMO if you're gonna rebuild it, do it right..

sell it and get an LS or cheaper car to rebuild.

the ITR will take time and money

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ITR will take time and money</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea very true, getting it done right will cost $$$$, just remember make the car the way you want it and dont go cheap.

 

i'm in the process of rebuilding a 98 and 00 itr and i can sure say that itr parts are very pricey. It is also very time consuming to find the proper parts. Maybe because I started with a strip bare jdm shells. I just dont want to slap on some hyrid ls/gsr parts in there.

 

you're not rebuilding an R, you're building a hybrid..

buy an ODBDI conversion harness and hondata and that should solve problems 2 and 3..

if you're really rebuilding it as an R at some point, buy the ITR suspension.. if you are continuing with your cheapo hybrid thing, buy whatever you can get your hands on..

if you decide you no longer want to do this project, send me a PM.. I'm not far from IA and would probably buy the car off of you..

 

i think they have a rebuild thread....lots of good info and different ways of doing it.

 

If you are going to rebuild it, rebuild it as an R. I just finished rebuilding my 1998 theft recovery. You better have plenty of time and money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You better have plenty of time and money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't even build mine for street (no seats, interior and other things you'll want) and still cost a small fortune.

Check sig for more details of the build.

I will say this though... SATISFACTION!!!! It's a great feeling when you rebuild one.

 

when i did my rebuild on my itr it cost me over 12g's,to bring back to stock itr specs.btw it's for sale now

 

check this out:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1671220

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You better have plenty of time and money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

QFT. To build it right your going to end up spending.

Ali

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrinceAli132 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

QFT. To build it right your going to end up spending.

Ali</TD></TR></TABLE>


What is build it right....... To showroom prep? Correct Gauge cluster/seats/motor/etc.

To each their own, but i believe that it doesn't matter if it isn't stock rebuild as long as the car doesn't turn into a show queen that is a hard parker and has 25,000 in Spoon parts or has lights and crap.

Brad has a great set-up for 8grand!

 

I meant back to OEM.

I agree with you though for the price Brad's car is awesome. However, factoring the new tranny and a weld in cage instead of the bolt-on will raise the price a little bit.

Ali

 

that sucks i was gonna buy that shell. i heard it already had type r suspension just needs stock wheels. i hope you build it right if i have to see it driving around town. Also if you want to sell it with out the b16 let me know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What is build it right....... To showroom prep? Correct Gauge cluster/seats/motor/etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't necessarily say to showroom condition, but correct cluster, motor, suspension is a good start..

 

I plan on eventually making it a stock type r but right now I dont have the money. Plus like I said this is the first car Im rebuilding and actually driving so I would rather put a 2000 dollar motor in it than a 5000. I figured once I got some more money together I can put the 93 sir in another car and sell that car to help pay for the type r engine.

I do realize as everyone is telling me that I do have to put a type r enigine in it to make it complete, but b16a isnt that much slower is it? I know the block isnt as good but the heads pretty much the same right??

I dont know any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. peace everyone

Also any advice about rails to fit the rsx seats would be great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I wouldn't necessarily say to showroom condition, but correct cluster, motor, suspension is a good start..</TD></TR></TABLE>K

I agree with 5lug, but motor and cluster ......first cluster doesn't matter as long as you can tell your rpm and it tells you speed/gas. Example I've got an LS cluster from my old project: Free

Second motor: with K20 stuff/B20 stuff and even stroker/sleeved B16 would be better then stock C5 that will run you the same if not more then building your own motor. The stock GSR in my Project ITR was 4,000 with rebuild and fresh tranny/B16...so i am not sure you have to have a c5.

If it is a new/stock car to begin.....then yes i wouldn't change it for less or even K20. But a rebuilt crashed or stolen car......at least it is back running and hopefully kickin *** at the track. (imo)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">at least it is back running and hopefully kickin *** at the track. (imo) </TD></TR></TABLE>

I couldn't have said it better. My car is not much of a looker but gets the job done out on the track. Fast, Fun, and cheap.

And yes, I only have $8k in my car including the motor, trans, cage, everything. Actually, I think it's up to $8300 with the clutch/flywheel. I kept a spreadsheet of every expense on the car.

 

I guess it all depends on what your purpose in "rebuilding" it is to some degree.. it could be argued that your car, Hooch'n (not sure what motor bradstard has), falls into the same category as this guys.. it's now a hybrid of an ITR and something else.. which, if that is what your goal was, is fine. It's not exactly an ITR anymore though either..

personally, when I rebuild, I do it with OEM 100% as the goal. But I build to resell, for profit. And that's where the resale money is. Which is probably a different purpose than you guys.. but no one keeps them forever....

 

Im going to try, the only problom that I may have with my itr is that I have rsx seats in it. They look perfect with the car but there kinda big. Along with the fact that Im 6'4. I guess I may have to cut my legs off or something cause this baby is way to nice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess it all depends on what your purpose in "rebuilding" it is to some degree.. it could be argued that your car, Hooch'n (not sure what motor bradstard has), falls into the same category as this guys.. it's now a hybrid of an ITR and something else.. which, if that is what your goal was, is fine. It's not exactly an ITR anymore though either..

personally, when I rebuild, I do it with OEM 100% as the goal. But I build to resell, for profit. And that's where the resale money is. Which is probably a different purpose than you guys.. but no one keeps them forever....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, it is a hybrid.......but it is an itr. Like if someone on the board when with a K20, i don't think it is worth a stock itr price.

For resell : OEM is best Personal: up to builder.
Anyway, good luck to the poster and keep up the great rebuilds.

 

A b16 will be pretty slow imo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96tegls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A b16 will be pretty slow imo</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he is doing this for the novelty of it, not for tracking.

 

b16 no tq

Better of with LS/GSR/B20/R motors.......or if you want to f'it up H22

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16 no tq

Better of with LS/GSR/B20/R motors.......or if you want to f'it up H22</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or D16. My Z6 with bolt ons makes more toque than a B16.