I have an all motor GSR that Im looking to squeeze a few more ponies out of, and Im not sure what the best way would be, and am looking for some recommendations. I am currently making 192whp and 130wtq. At the beginning of my build, my goal was 200whp- and Id like to try to meet or exceed it. Here is my current setup:

B18C1 Engine and transmission
B16 pistons w/ hastings rings
Balanced GSR crank
GSR rods
Crower Stage 3 cams
Manley Retainers
Supertech Valvesprings
3 angle valve job
Head milled .01"
ACT Stage 1 clutch
Exedy 9.4lb flywheel
Blox Intake manifold
Comptech Intake and Icebox
Rage 4-2-1 Tri-y header
Custom stainless 2.5" Mandrel bent piping, no cat, 22" magnaflow resonator, SNL 2.5" twin loop muffler
Controlled by a P28 with the help of Hondata S200, tuned by R/T Tuning on a Dynojet 224x.
Stock throttle body, fuel rail, crank pully, ignition, and porting.
Stock head studs and rod bolts, 8800rpm redline.

Im thinking a 64-65mm throttle body and a CTR crank pully?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Get rid of the icebox and put on a itr aem cold air with a bpi velocity stack setup. Then do a retune to smooth it out and clean up the a/f.

 

your thinkin good with the throttle body and i don't know how much the pulley will help if at all. try to just think more basic air in, air out get a huge short ram intake and a bigger tb and you should get your goal. GL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get rid of the icebox and put on a itr aem cold air with a bpi velocity stack setup. Then do a retune to smooth it out and clean up the a/f.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree wit the kidd... what do have for the fuel system??

 

Have the head ported. Toda C or Skunk Pro 1's. AEM ITR CAI.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get rid of the icebox and put on a itr aem cold air with a bpi velocity stack setup. Then do a retune to smooth it out and clean up the a/f.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep i agree. i had one of those on my gsr. went with a v-stack 3" cold air approx. 32" in length(may differ depending on your set up.) Try a couple different length during the tune to see what works for you. Also you could always try a differant intake manifold. A cut and ported or the performer x which seem to do well in the manifold test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock-gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what do have for the fuel system??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Eagle Talon TSI fuel pump (installed by previous owner, car was boosted then), and RC 310cc injectors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have the head ported. Toda C or Skunk Pro 1's. AEM ITR CAI.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Having the head ported would cost me over $1000. I have a friend who will sell me his Sk2S2 cams for $250, and i think that should do the trick, but I have to have them installed too.

You guys really seem to think that the comptech unit is holding me back. Why is that? Not that im disagreeing, just curious why you think that. I assumed it was one of the best intakes around, bringing cold air through a 3" pipe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sirfallsalot243 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Having the head ported would cost me over $1000. </TD></TR></TABLE>
$$ an issue? Disregard my previous post. A 50 shot of N2O should do the trick.

 

0w10 oil FTW everytime

 

what brand do you reccomend?

 

Torco is very good.

In Europe, people use Motul with success.

 

have you ran the car yet? rather than reaching your hp goals, have you ment your performance goals?? its been proven that a edelbrock performer intake manifold is worth a few ponies, a 65mm t-body will help, a different intake, perferably a tuned lenght on the dyno with a bpi stack you should be over 200whp.

 

change this cheap muffler at least...The bpi stack is a great idea...Myself i have a comptech icebox and on the dyno my comptech short ram with my open bpi stack gained 10whp/2lbs torque.

 

Where can i get 0w10, i couldn't find it on their site. Also, why is 0w10 not reccomended for street use? Will 0w10 be okay for a DD where temps range from 20oF - 110oF? thanks

 

can i see your dyno map... i see that rt has poor tuning results at vtec. i find that other tuners dont have the drop as vtech hits. im curious b/c i may have evan tune rather RT.

 

wtf, i think you have me mistaken for someone else

 

professional products 70mm tb for 130 in the sponsor section, and a velocity stack, 250 bucks and prolly 15whp with a tune.

 

was talking to the dude who posted the thread.

 

Last few HP? You should be looking for the first few...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
$$ an issue? Disregard my previous post. A 50 shot of N2O should do the trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thought about it. But I want the car to stay NA. Plus its a DD, it needs to last.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master Of The Universe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In Europe, people use Motul with success.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I currently am running 5w30 Motul.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mx620 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
have you ran the car yet? rather than reaching your hp goals, have you ment your performance goals?? its been proven that a edelbrock performer intake manifold is worth a few ponies, a 65mm t-body will help, a different intake, perferably a tuned lenght on the dyno with a bpi stack you should be over 200whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have not yet run the car. My goal in the 1/4 is a 13.99 ET on street tires (ES100's). I was under the impression that the JG Edelbrock IM was designed primarily for boosted cars- and that it would be too big for my application. I want to make 200whp, but not at the sacrafice of any torque. I dont want a dyno queen.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mastakmk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
can i see your dyno map... i see that rt has poor tuning results at vtec. i find that other tuners dont have the drop as vtech hits. im curious b/c i may have evan tune rather RT.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honestly, I think Vince at RT Tuning is an excellent tuner. Evans is one of the best on the east coast, but I prefer R/T. I once got a CEL after leaving his shop. I returned- they spent an hour and a half checking it over, and didnt charge me a thing. His tune looks great, my a/f ratio is spot on. People love Evans because they see big numbers from his tunes. It isnt the tune, its the dyno. They use a Dynapack- a dyno that bolts directly to the hubs of the vehicle. This eliminates any power lost through the wheels and tires, and can translate to up to 15% more power when compared to a dynojet. If I really wanted 200whp, i could just do a few pulls on his dyno, and I'd make that. But I want to make 200 on the dyno that I did my baseline on. Here is my chart- the top line is current, the bottom is before tuning (when the motor was brand new).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sirfallsalot243 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have to have them installed too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

boo. bought not built.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have the head ported. Toda C or Skunk Pro 1's. AEM ITR CAI.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think the pro 1's will get you there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sirfallsalot243 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Honestly, I think Vince at RT Tuning is an excellent tuner. Evans is one of the best on the east coast, but I prefer R/T. I once got a CEL after leaving his shop. I returned- they spent an hour and a half checking it over, and didnt charge me a thing. His tune looks great, my a/f ratio is spot on. People love Evans because they see big numbers from his tunes. It isnt the tune, its the dyno. They use a Dynapack- a dyno that bolts directly to the hubs of the vehicle. This eliminates any power lost through the wheels and tires, and can translate to up to 15% more power when compared to a dynojet. If I really wanted 200whp, i could just do a few pulls on his dyno, and I'd make that. But I want to make 200 on the dyno that I did my baseline on. Here is my chart- the top line is current, the bottom is before tuning (when the motor was brand new).


</TD></TR></TABLE>

you must be confused with shawn churches dynapak . Tbone and jeff did a bunch of cam testing at jeffs shop on toms ls/v crx. the very next day tom dynoed the car on his dyno jet and it read a few more hp than jeffs dynapak. on high horsepower (FI) cars this can be true due to tires loosing traction (spinning) on the rollers. this arguement is old as dirt, regaurdless a dynapak is a better tuning tool.

 

I think a better intake or a new set of cams, as you and I have discuess before, a true 3'' intake will yield you more then your icebox. I also believe a better set of cams will do you, because when i asked you if he cam tuned the gears, you said yes, and it didn't make any more hp then what it was at moving them any which way, which tells me something... try the cheapest route first, a new TB And bigger intake piping, then go from there.

 

hmm.. i think rt had some kinda problem wit mine... but yours is 1 of the firsts i seen it not take a dip after vtec. kool thanks. maybe i just let vince retune my bitch. lol.. nah. my baby.