i just got my car back. i got ACT stage 2 6 puck clutch and new exedy pressure plate and TOB. the oem flywheel is shaved down to 12 lbs. i have a euro-r tranny fyi. my car is a 98 5th gen base model.

when i shift between 3-3.5k rpm, my car shakes a bit. if shift higher like 4.5 or in vtec, i don't really notice it. the guy that did the clutch work for me told me that it means that the clutch is grabing.... but i don't believe him. i need help!!! i feel like something is out of wack.

btw, my clutch pedal feels like oem. does he need to bleed the slave cylinder some more or what?


Modified by Chewy[Ek] at 9:51 PM 10/7/2007


Modified by Chewy[Ek] at 10:49 AM 10/8/2007

 

You need to watch the slave while someone pushes on the clutch pedal, it should start to move right away, you dont know how to bleed a clutch or brakes, if needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chewy[Ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

when i shift between 3-3.5k rpm, my car shakes a bit. if shift higher like 4.5 or in vtec, i don't really notice it.

Modified by Chewy[Ek] at 9:51 PM 10/7/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
My car did the same at first. Well it still does it if im not paying attention, but it doesn't do it as bad as when i first put in the clutch. I gave it time and now it almost never does it. but is you'rs a sprung clutch?

 

yea, its spring loaded

 

so the shaking is normal when i shift around 3k rpm? or am i just not use to it?

btw the starting is almost impossible to do it smoothly without my whole car feeling like its going to fall apart.


Modified by Chewy[Ek] at 2:06 PM 10/8/2007

 

no one has a stage 2 6 puck???

 

u have a puck clutch. That explains everything. its called clutch chatter. Are you trying to drive it like a normal clutch?

 

yea i was. tonite i spent like 2-3 hours just driving around. i found that i have to rev up to 2.2-2.5k on first gear just to drive it smoothly. that is so high from oem which is like 0.5-1k rpm. i also have to release the clutch much more slowly if i want it smooth. guess i made a mistake. i was under a false impression that it just just the stiff clutch. no one mention how much i have to rev just to drive it.

 

a lighter flywheel plus a clutch that has zero slippage is just going to take some getting used to. If you wanted something OEM you should've gone with something a bit milder.

 

i learned to drive manual in my lude which has a "hella stiff" racing clutch, just move your seat forward and look dumb to control smoothness. using your quadriceps to push a pedal is a lot easier than using your calves + ankle. when you're fully comfortable with the catchpoint and can release smoothly, move ur seat back a notch or 2...

i always wondered what the OEM clutchies would be like for DD.. launching in my frn's didn't feel raw..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chewy[Ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i was. tonite i spent like 2-3 hours just driving around</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need to give it WAY more time then that. It will be less hard to drive if you give like 500 miles and a week or so to brake in. And not hitting it.AT ALL. and you'll be fine

 

i would of if i only knew haha. like i said, i was under a false impression by some friends of mine. i think im going to change it to oem replacement this week if i can't get use to it.

 

or you can do that to. One thing you got to remember when makeing a car faster, you will loose some comfort and some times your mind. well, good luck