okay so i got a engine (D15B7) for free and i put it in my car because the engine i had in there burnt 1 Quart of oil per tank of gas. anyways i did the swap and then at startup the new one would blow blue like no other indicaticating that the valve seals were shot... So i put my old head on the "new" block i had cuz my old engine never puffed at start up. Well now it doesn't blow smoke anymore at startup. I did a compression check for ***** and giggles and each cylinder got 120 psi. and each one got 125 psi wet ( put a bit of oil in each cylinder and re-tested)

now because the recent head i put on, was on a engine that burned lots of oil there is lots of carbon around where the valves seat. Would this cause me to have such a low compression reading?

so by those compression test numbers would it indicate that my bottom end is good and my top end leaks from the valve seats? Is there any trick to getting the valves to seat better without tearing the engine apart and doing a valve job?

What should my compression numbers be on a engine thats in good shape?

oh... and could this be because my valve timing is off? The crank mark was lined up perfectly.. and the two marks on the left and right of the cam pully were lined up with the surface on the head (where the valve cover meets the head).

Thanks

 

Usually carbon despoits raise compression but I would go get it leak down tested. That will tell you exactly where its leaking from

 

are the rings good?

 

well i went and took it for a rip today and when i get up at high RPM's if does blow smoke (blue).. so i guess the rings are messed. I found a CX engine for $150 (D15B2) thats guarneteed to not blow smoke. i might just put that in there

damnit..

 

im tired of changing damn engines!! grrrrrrrr

Why the hell do d-series engines always burn oil and smoke like bastards.

 

cause they're mostly old *** motors.