VAFC tuning question???
ok, I was tuning out my VAFC with the EGT probe and WB 02 meter, and I was lowering my Vtec engagement point to 4700. On the VAFC there are 2 Vtec "icons" VTi and VTo. When everything was set to 0 and nothing on the VAFC was changed, the stock engagement point was 5000, and VTi AND VTo would light up as soon as it hit 5000. Well, when I lowered it to 4700, the VTi would light up as "ON" but it didn't sound or pull right, then when it got to 5000 the VTo would light up "ON" and it would pull like it was supposed to. Is there something I'm not setting right, is this where the vtec correction factor comes into play?? It was set at 0% for L->H and 0 H->L????
Huh? VTi is the stock VTEC point (I believe, I don't have my manual around) and the VTo is the VTEC setting going out of the unit which is the real set VTEC point. I think you messed up either your wiring or your settings or I'm just confused about what you're talking about.
It might be the other way around, I'm not in my car to look, I know one lights up then a few 100 rpms later the other one lights up and it pulls harder?? So 1 is stock engagement, and 1 is VAFC engagement....then why does it pull differently until they are both lit up as "ON"..?? shouldn't it pull as hard as it did with the stock one when the VAFC engages it.....????
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i've actually heard a lot more positive opinions about the vafc... i have the fields and it works fine for me.....i think one the vafc you can choose rpms finer than 100 rpm increments which is like the fields. haha also the vafc looks a lot cooler if you're into that!
On stock internals, its common for VTEC to pull like horseshit if you lower the engaugement point. For experimental purposes, raise it to like 5300 and see if it pulls hard when it engauges. Let me know.
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