Well Guyz now i know im going to go NA for sure this time. So what i need for your info on how to make this build reliable and safe daily driver. I Will list all things i have and will need Please add if im missing something. (There is no buget limit, but i dont want to spend too much.) This is for my 00 Lude. I was thinking to get a thinner head gaskit and mabe shave my head a little, boost compression a bit? I want to be able to tune this on 91 Octane. So how much can i shave from my head safly? So is this a good NA build? Any Other gaskits i should change? I wana do this right the 1st time.
I have
Skunk2 manifold
Skunk2 camshafts and cam gears
Full 2.5 exhaust (header too)
Fuel Pump
Fuel Injectrors 450cc

Things I Need
valves / springs / retainers (not sure on what brand i should get, any tips?)
Pistons and rods http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWD1V (type-s 88mm) Will work with stock sleaves right?
Head gaskit (were can i get one?)
Obd1 chipped Ecu (crome tuned)
Head studs

A bit more info
Im in Ohio right now working, so i want to buy all these parts and when i come home (2-3 mothes) Ill have every thing bought and readdy so i do this build fast without any lost time so i can drive the car again. Thanx on any input, plz no flaming. Hoping to get min 200Whp.

 

AFAIK, you cannot bore the stock block to 88mm. That kit obviously does not include OEM Type S pistons.

You can get 200WHP on a dyno jet without anything too fancy. I did it with 100% OEM USDM internals.

If you don't want to sleeve the engine, I'd say go with OS Type S pistons (OEM, not Nippon copies), with either Eagle rods, or have the piston wrist pin bore honed to fit true 22mm wrist pins for aftermarket rods.

To really get the best out of your build, you should get a stand alone ECU as well. I see you have an SH, so you'll lose ATTS, but IMO, it's the best way to tune the engine.

I actually have a block with OS Type S pistons and a ton of other work done that I might be interested in selling. However, I don't think anyone would pay me what I have into the block not including the engine itself.

 

BTW what is your budget?

 

So will the Nippon copie still work with my stock sleaves? If so whats the max size can i get? Stock type-s oem's are too hard to find, and that kit allready has rods. I know im going to loose my ATTS My light for ATTS is allready on and i dont feel like messing with it. (dealer said my ATTS computers arent talking to each other)
Well thanx about offering you block but i have mine :D
Well im guessing im at 160Whp right now, how is it i can get 200Whp like with stock internals?

 

I dont really have a buget, but i dont feel like spending more then 1500- 1800 ish. I do allreaddy have some part so i think i can fit in that buget. PS i had my timing belt water pump ect changed 2000 or less miles ago.

 

I'm sorry, but you're not going to rebuild an engine in a performance minded manner for $1800 for machine work and parts.

There is only one overbore spec for the H22. It's 0.25mm oversize (0.010"), so 87.25mm.

A proper hone on the stock block will usually run you $400 to $450. It's much more expensive because of the FRM liners. You cannot bore an H22 block like a "normal" block.

 

About the honing FRM causes it to be more expensive. Is the procedure more parts and/or labor intensive in comparison to that of iron liners?

 

Some shops don't even have machines that can hone FRM because they can't go slow enough. The stones used are very, very soft, and a full set is usually only good for 1 to 1.5 blocks from the shops I've had do the work for me, so the stones just don't last.

 

Well if have to spend more then 1800, i will. That part im not woried about. Thanx for the info about the max i can bore my block. So i still need some more info. What valves/springs should i get (im not going to want to go passed 8.2 rpm)? whats the max i can shave me head to get more compretion (or should i not bother with this)? And whats the site were i can get thinner head gaskit? Thanx guy

 

You shouldn't be attempting any of this without a helms.

 

You need to mock up the engine and figure out how much you can mill by looking at the squish.

Don't bother with a thinner headgasket.

As for valves, there's nothing wrong with OEM. For valve springs, you should match them with the intended use. There's nothing to be gained by running really stiff valve springs if you don't need to.

If you're planning on doing a complete engine build with performance/aftermarket parts, you need to double your budget, easily.

 

also ive run across a few shops that say they know what they are doing with the hone and then you talk to them alittle to find out that they want to hone the block like normal and it will be fine. Needless to say I didnt go there.

Has anyone had it done the traditional way and had or didnt have problems ?

 

Well I allready have the Skunk2 Stage 2 cam saft's and cam gear. your trying to say i can run that on stock vavles/springs?