I don't have a drill press.



I can provide the specs. The metal need to be strong and hard to support an alternator. The one in the pic is aluminum, and will break.

Need the washer and bracket. I'm sure I can find the bolts local. But if you got them, why not.

I will pay you for it. Email me at golowdrew@yahoo.com

 

I dont think that piece will break

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont think that piece will break</TD></TR></TABLE>

This photo came from AEBS. They supply the bracket with their $660 header. It did break for one customer I read. Since I'm not getting a AEBS header, I have to make one. Most guys just find someone with a drill press to make one. I don't know anyone with it.

 

get me the dimensions you need and i can make it for you. i work for a sheet metal fab shop and i program our CNC laser. i can cut it out of steel and have it powder coated or stainless and leave it unfinished.

 

just to let you know most of the weight of the altenator is on the bottom bolt and bracket....the top one is just used as a set screw (bolt) to hold the altenator back from the block and provide tension in the belt. . . .

 

i can do it also if you get me the dimensions, if one of the other guys cant

 

Update. Thanks for the responses. I decided NOT to go that route. Someone did make it and in his one-day test, the belt tend to slip. I guess that's where OEM engineering and testing comes in to play.

 

why did the belt slip exactly?

couldnt he just tighten it up a little more?

 

Getting a shorter belt or longer depending on the case wont help that?

Oh and by the way You can buy small piece of flat alum stock and spacer at lowes, Home depot etc. Then if you have a dremel you can make it easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.E.G. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why did the belt slip exactly?

couldnt he just tighten it up a little more?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because it changes the angle (distance) of all the pulleys. Best way I can describe it. It can't be tighten because the belt tensioner is spring loaded.

As for a shorter belt? Many think it's very hard to find one that would be an exact fit. I think we are talking about fractions in the difference.

Right now, I may be leaning toward a new header .

Note to self: That's what happens when one decided to go cheap. Cheap stuff does not always built to the same spec tolerance. So how much did I really save????? Not worth the headache, or potential (certain) damage to engine parts.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2111665

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because it changes the angle (distance) of all the pulleys. Best way I can describe it. It can't be tighten because the belt tensioner is spring loaded.

As for a shorter belt? Many think it's very hard to find one that would be an exact fit. I think we are talking about fractions in the difference.

Right now, I may be leaning toward a new header .

Note to self: That's what happens when one decided to go cheap. Cheap stuff does not always built to the same spec tolerance. So how much did I really save????? Not worth the headache, or potential (certain) damage to engine parts.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2111665</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't give up yet man. can you take some more detailed pics? im sure we can all put our heads together and come up with something.