i had my rust fixed at a body shop and they fucked up my rear quarters. Anyways, I was going to buy brand new quarter panels from honda and wheel wells as well. are these held in by only spot welds? or am i gonna have to cut?
(this will be my first time doing any major repair. so any help, especially another DIY or forum would be awesome)
thanks

 

I would advise you not to do the quarters. if this is your first major repair. your way in over your head. refitting a new quarter is a bitch and half sometimes. I wouldnt suggest it if your a rookie. ive done 2 quarters and they were not fun.

 

whats so hard about lining them up? I dont understand, seems like i just drill out spot welds and put the new quarter on in place. how hard on a scale from 1-10, as in 1 being bondo'ing a dent and 10 being soemthing duper hard.

 

Not familiar with CRX quarter panels but if they need to be sectioned then this would be a no no for you. I would scale it an 8. Why not just take it to the body shop that fixed it and tell them they did a **** poor job?

 

because the dude wont fix it, and im 17, which means my parents would have to take him to court, but they dont want to. so next thing is to fix what he messed up, i already wasted 700 bucks, i need to do it right this time.

and what do u mean "sectioned?"

 

sectioned is from honda you only get about half way into the rocker and half way up the sail panel. you have to cut and fit. it's a major job for a rookie. and it's not a good 'backyard' repair to do either.

 

it goes halfway up the c-pillar, and about 6 inches into the rocker, not that far, and about 1 inch into the door jamb, how come I cant just use the new one as a template and cut along the line? whats so hard about that?

im not saying you're wrong, i just want to understand why i should spend another 1500 at a body shop to weld them in

 

lining up the door to quarter gap, quarter to rear hatch gap. it's not hard if you've done it or if you have lots of patience and time.

I mean go ahead and try it. some people are capable of doing this kind of thing. I don't know you or your abilities i'm just saying that in general it's a pretty involved job for someone without body work experience. Don't think i'm trying to put you down or anything i'm just saying there's more to it then just 'cut and weld'.

 

well i have about 1 week in april that i can work daily/full time. and a little after that. I can weld, use body filler and paint. this will be new for me, but if i have a week to do both sides I think I can handle it. but im sure it wont be easy. heres the sections I will be using.


since they dont sell sections 4 and 8 anymore, i can get 2 and 6, but then I'll also need 1 and 5, which complete the quarter and rockers. if anything, im gonna be worried about lining up where the quarters meet the rockers(where 2 meets 1) in this pic. does the door jamb on the quarter remove from the body by spot welds? just like the rocker panels remove by spot welds on the floor boards?

 

This is why i said section. Number 2 and 6 I guess is the whole quarter panel and maybe tail light pocket who knows. But you have to section the top of the quarter or tear apart the roof to weld it to the factory spot welds. That is the reason I said section. Does the quarter come with the rocker or without cause the picture is misleading?
Best bet for you is to overlap the weld on the section. Much easier for you to do this being your first time. Just grind down the edges a bit so that the overlap does not stick out.
If you go through with this make sure that you put the same amount of welds on the quarter as came off and that you clean them real well. Use an acid etch primer on the cleaned welds.
If you don't already have one get a panel cutter. Will make your job 10million times easier. You are also gonna need a cut off wheel. A good grinder. You have a welder. Some good drill bits.
Clean where you are gonna weld. Also clean around your spot welds on the new quarter. Will help alot. When tacking the seam or section make sure to tap down a bit with a hammer to keep it from distorting and don't do continuose welds. Do stich welds from one area to another area. Spend the extra time fitting the quarters to make sure that they are aligned before welding fully. That means through the striker back on and the tail lights to make sure everything fits. Make sure the hatch has a good gap also.
Once done do your body work and then primer it all. Remember to clean the backs of welds also. Use seam sealer on the seams to stop water from coming in and forming rust.
Just some tips I thought I would tell you. LOL And if you weld all the way down to the pinch weld make sure you spray some rust proofing into the rocker and let it seap out of the pinch welds.
For one week I hope you can do it. This being your first time. Start on only one side. This way you will know what to do better on the other side.
And I would take the guy to court or threaten too. Body shops should back up their work. Unless you went to the guy with the shop behind his house in the chicken coop.

 

sell the car to someone who doesn't care what it looks like or that it is rusty and go buy one in texas, az, or socal.

save yourself 6 months, a lot of money, and ending up with a car in similar or worse condition than it is now.

There's alot more than just drilling a few spotwelds and tacking the new one in. There are going to be 200+ spot welds in just that rear section. Not to mention it is structural, so if you don't have the car on some kind of jig there is a good chance you will warp it, or the new panel. If you don't get that panel in correctly your door or hatch will not line up, or may not even latch. Oh, and forget about the window ever sealing again.

Post pics of the car currently, repairing that guy's expletive up will probably be easier.

 

dude dont do it

 

lol, 2&6 are $360 each, 1&5 are $90.

thats $900 in just the panels for slow adders out there.

 

I know i shouldnt, but i got to figure soemthing out, the dude owns a real body shop but my parents refuse to take him to court since they dont have time, im only 17. how much does it cost to ship a car from socal? i can drive a car from the farthest, 800 miles if i fly down there. i cant find anything locally without rust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xci_ed6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sell the car to someone who doesn't care what it looks like or that it is rusty and go buy one in texas, az, or socal.

save yourself 6 months, a lot of money, and ending up with a car in similar or worse condition than it is now.

There's alot more than just drilling a few spotwelds and tacking the new one in. There are going to be 200+ spot welds in just that rear section. </TD></TR></TABLE>

200+ spot welds where do u mean just the rear section?

 

while i was out trying to fix his expletive up today, i counted what spot welds i could and it doesnt seem to be close to 200, about 60 per quarter panel, i couldnt find where the spot welds are for the wheel well, but i believe they are about halfway between the shock tower and the quarter panel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xci_ed6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol, 2&6 are $360 each, 1&5 are $90.

thats $900 in just the panels for slow adders out there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea but shipping a car up here from cali or florida will cost me 900 bucks. and a good condition crx another 1-1.5K, so in the end it will be cheaper to buy all the panels and weld them or get them welded in.

 

i just found this today. im thinking about gettin them. maybe you should first and then let me know

http://www.fixmyrust.com/

 

thats what i had a body shop use and they fucked it up. they mis aligned it and now it needs new full quarters. they fit good, but the body shop didnt give a ****, he was an *******.

i still need to find out about how much a body shop will charge for labor to put in new quarters?

 

mucho denaro

 

The price to put in new quarters is going to exceed the price of a fresh crx

 

cant you just have another shop cut the ones you just had put on and remount?


pics pics pics pics pics pics

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Meowsome &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cant you just have another shop cut the ones you just had put on and remount?


pics pics pics pics pics pics</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont know if a shop could because he cut out the old panel, and a shop might have a big gap if he cut them out and did it right. I'm going to talk to a top quality shop and check out my options.

I dont have pics yet, im waiting for my mom to bring her camera home from work

 

and a fresh shell plus shipping still comes out to about 1500. i cant find one for any cheaper anywhere.

if anyone knows of a fresh shell rust free let me know asap!!

 

diy not a good idea for someone with no experience. You'll end up spending more in the long run paying someone to fix what you messed up.