adding a aftermarket sub. help!!!!
I would like to add a 10inch sub. The EX already has a smaller subwoofer in the rear dash. Has anyone tapped into the inputs for the stock subwoofer's amp for use w/ an after-market amp? I think this would be the ideal signal to use for an input (I'm assuming Honda has some sort of cross-over to eliminate some of the bass going to the mid/high speakers.) If anyone has done this please let me know what you found out/did/and how it worked out.
civicoolie
civicoolie
You need to add something that has preamp outputs pick up a line output converter, I picked one up at best buy for about $25.00 tap into the wires at the OEM sub I used a volt meter with the radio on to find the polarity of the wires. I ran a power cable from the battery through the firewall by the factory wiring harness, removed trim and ran it under the carpet. The only problem I had was finding a remote wire that turns the amp on, I didn’t feel like tracking down a switched power wire so I had a stereo shop install a remote wire when I had the car in for window tint. If I could change anything I would have had the shop install it because they said they would have done the whole thing for $125.00 parts and labor, if you price out all the supplies needed to do the job yourself $125.00 is nothing and you know it’s done correct just make sure the shop has a MECP certification
if you have not bought the amp yet, look into getting one that has the line level converter built in. these amps will usually turn on when it sees signal through the wires thus eliminating the need to run a remote wire.
Check it out bro, go to best buy and get a line output converter, they are 25.99 just like dude before said. Tie in the positives together and the negatives together on the speaker lead inputs and connect it to the (GREEN is + / RED is -) and connect the RCA's and be happy
Power is fairly simple. I have an Si and I know I just removed the cover on the sir intake box and theres a boot directly behind the motor with all of factory wiring running through there.
Remote wire can be found at the ignition harness which you can find by following it off of the key cylinder.
Orange is Accessory
Blue is Ignition
Using Accessory is a litter better because it is in fact made for an accessory (Radio, A/C, Wipers, etc.) But make you you use an inline fuse.
The rest is running wires and heartache.
Let me know if you have any further questions, or need me to be more specific.
Power is fairly simple. I have an Si and I know I just removed the cover on the sir intake box and theres a boot directly behind the motor with all of factory wiring running through there.
Remote wire can be found at the ignition harness which you can find by following it off of the key cylinder.
Orange is Accessory
Blue is Ignition
Using Accessory is a litter better because it is in fact made for an accessory (Radio, A/C, Wipers, etc.) But make you you use an inline fuse.
The rest is running wires and heartache.
Let me know if you have any further questions, or need me to be more specific.
With doing the power that way. I will not have to tap power off the battery for my amp?will finding the power be the same as u say with my EX and your SI?
I also have another question, wat do i need the remote wire for? i am new at doing this. just want to kno all the info. thanks
I also have another question, wat do i need the remote wire for? i am new at doing this. just want to kno all the info. thanks
Theres a main wire usually 4ga. (the thick wire) runs straight to the battery with an inline fuse closest to the battery... and yes you still have to run a wire directly for your battery.
the remote wire is basically what turns the amp on and off, that needs to be hooked up to the ignition or a remote turn on output from a radio to shut the amp on and off with the car.
Go to your local shop or Best Buy and buy a 4 gauge amp kit.
the remote wire is basically what turns the amp on and off, that needs to be hooked up to the ignition or a remote turn on output from a radio to shut the amp on and off with the car.
Go to your local shop or Best Buy and buy a 4 gauge amp kit.
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if you need to ask this many questions about the install, pay to have a shop do it please.. i install car stereo crap at ccity for a job....and have seen way too many cars, and the outcome of what you about to do to it... please please please
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redciv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you need to ask this many questions about the install, pay to have a shop do it please.. i install car stereo crap at ccity for a job....and have seen way too many cars, and the outcome of what you about to do to it... please please please</TD></TR></TABLE>
Spend the 70 dollars and get it installed, I promise its worth it. Plus if they F it up... it their fault, not yours.
Spend the 70 dollars and get it installed, I promise its worth it. Plus if they F it up... it their fault, not yours.
i would do that for $65 dollars and a $4.99 shop fee at my circuit city.
+ line output converter, rca's and pwr kit
pwr wire running through the firewall would be the hardest part, but i think there is a DIY out there somewhere w/pics. remote turn on can be grabbed at the key cylinder, and loc can be attached off the rear deck speaker wires..
would not even have to take the radio out.
+ line output converter, rca's and pwr kit
pwr wire running through the firewall would be the hardest part, but i think there is a DIY out there somewhere w/pics. remote turn on can be grabbed at the key cylinder, and loc can be attached off the rear deck speaker wires..
would not even have to take the radio out.
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