i have to buy a motor, don't know which one though,im going N/A

if i buy the itr motor and leave bottom end alone and build head
i'm thinking BC spec III cams, springs and retainers, BC cam gears and BC spec III racing header, and RBC intake manifold etc also kpro

i know the typer has LSD and better gear ratios

is it worth the difference

or should i go with k20a2 and still build my head (same way) and put in higer
compression pistions and LSD

 

I would say go with the k20a, thats just because I would want to have the a

 

no more turbo eh?

jdm k20a ftmfw!

honestly my suggestion...keep it stock...drive the thing 1st...then make decisions about cams etc...

i/h/e + tuning you will get 210whp - 225whp or if your lucky even higher. I've seen it done on a k20a.

 

i still want the turbo but i think im gonna go na for a bit thanx

 

If you're going with a turbo setup, there would be no benefit to buying a K20a. That motor runs high compression pistons, among a few other things, which you would be getting rid of for the turbo setup. If you're going N/A, go with the K20a, because it's got a much stronger mid-range.

 

thats what i think im gonna do is go N/A
but i may build my head

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nogi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what i think im gonna do is go N/A
but i may build my head</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd use a Toda valvetrain then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'd use a Toda valvetrain then.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have to ask myself, why Toda at this point? There are so many other companies out there, that make valvetrain component that are equal to their quality standards.. cheaper too. Toda's a single springs as well.. If this was four or three years ago, then I surely would have said Toda, as that's all that was out.. He should be more concerned with picking his the camshaft, and then choosing the spring that the specific manufacturer recommends.

If the OP were to go from 11.0 to 11:5, it's been shown that it only nets about, 5whp. Save your money, get an A2, and built it..

 

It depends on how much money you want to spend. For the "Ooooh" factor, going with a K20A would be your choice but go with Toda components. Toda is so much better than pretty much everything else for the A.

If thats not an issue and are looking to save some coin, you could just as well get an A2, K-Pro and IPS cams and you'll have good power at a lower compresion which will leave the option of F/I at a later point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nodnero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It depends on how much money you want to spend. For the "Ooooh" factor, going with a K20A would be your choice but go with Toda components. Toda is so much better than pretty much everything else for the A.

If thats not an issue and are looking to save some coin, you could just as well get an A2, K-Pro and IPS cams and you'll have good power at a lower compresion which will leave the option of F/I at a later point. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Toda Exhaust - Yes, if mildly modded
Toda Header - Yes, in all situations
Toda TDC - Yes, for extra measure
Toda Cams - Maybe, if looking for decent gains. You have to remember, Toda USA is completely different from Toda Japan.
Toda Valve springs - Yes, if using Toda Cams.
Toda ITB's - Maybe, setup dependant.
Toda Fightex's - Yes, in all situations (If you can get ITR tie rod ends)

Now, everything listed up there is a lot of cash. I have several of those products, but would not choose Toad cams in this day and age. American cam manufacturer's pretty much own the K-Series cam market. Their quality is excellent, the price is even better, and they make more power.

The money the OP saves by purchasing an A2 over the A, he purchases a set of cams, K-Pro (granted he already has bolt-on's), he'll be making more power in the end than that A, with bolt-on's and K-Pro. There's no reason to purchase an A, if you're building the head anyways, unless you're after that .5, yes, .5 increase in compression, and the Intake Manifold, which hopefully he would switch to an RBC if using Buddy Club cams.

Remember, this is coming from a person who had/has both.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20whitevic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Toda Exhaust - Yes, if mildly modded
Toda Header - Yes, in all situations
Toda TDC - Yes, for extra measure
Toda Cams - Maybe, if looking for decent gains. You have to remember, Toda USA is completely different from Toda Japan.
Toda Valve springs - Yes, if using Toda Cams.
Toda ITB's - Maybe, setup dependant.
Toda Fightex's - Yes, in all situations (If you can get ITR tie rod ends)

Now, everything listed up there is a lot of cash. I have several of those products, but would not choose Toad cams in this day and age. American cam manufacturer's pretty much own the K-Series cam market. Their quality is excellent, the price is even better, and they make more power.

The money the OP saves by purchasing an A2 over the A, he purchases a set of cams, K-Pro (granted he already has bolt-on's), he'll be making more power in the end than that A, with bolt-on's and K-Pro. There's no reason to purchase an A, if you're building the head anyways, unless you're after that .5, yes, .5 increase in compression, and the Intake Manifold, which hopefully he would switch to an RBC if using Buddy Club cams.

Remember, this is coming from a person who had/has both.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think im gonna be talking to you quite a bit when i get my k lol
you seem like a good reference since u had experience when it comes to the k

 

if i were you i would go a2 w/ z1 tranny. my friend has it in his ep3

 

..


Modified by Tu MaDre at 7:08 PM 9/29/2007

 

N/A = naturally aspirated = non forced induction = no supercharger/turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20whitevic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have to ask myself, why Toda at this point? There are so many other companies out there, that make valvetrain component that are equal to their quality standards.. cheaper too. Toda's a single springs as well.. If this was four or three years ago, then I surely would have said Toda, as that's all that was out.. He should be more concerned with picking his the camshaft, and then choosing the spring that the specific manufacturer recommends.

If the OP were to go from 11.0 to 11:5, it's been shown that it only nets about, 5whp. Save your money, get an A2, and built it..</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only reason why I like the Toda valvetrain, is because it's titanium and looks like it has been through rigorous tests and design to run properly. I guess, I like paying a lot for quality internals. I really don't have much better a reason. I'm sure that there's tons of better alternatives out there, but I was just offering up the one that I was most drawn to.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vantage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">N/A = naturally aspirated = non forced induction = no supercharger/turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also means no nitrous. There's a category of cars, strictly running nitrous.

 

K20A...ftw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only reason why I like the Toda valvetrain, is because it's titanium and looks like it has been through rigorous tests and design to run properly. I guess, I like paying a lot for quality internals. I really don't have much better a reason. I'm sure that there's tons of better alternatives out there, but I was just offering up the one that I was most drawn to. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's all good. Where would any of this be, without a little healthy discussion.

 

Again, this is assuming he builds it. Running low boost on a K20A will increase it's effective compression ratio sufficiently with a standalone system will yield perfectly good results as well.

But I completely agree, if he plans on building the motor to even higher levels of power, there's no point in going with a K20A.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20whitevic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's all good. Where would any of this be, without a little healthy discussion. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, I'm always up for K-series discussion. The engine fascinates me, and I wish I only knew more about it.

 

i just happend to be reading one of my older magazines and there was an article on the k20z1 or whatever.. and the head was completely reworked by Toda with ITBs and the works... it was a beast apparently but only made about 220whp... apparently it sounded godly.

 

Honestly for what you want to do I would go with the K20a2. With the $ that you will save, go with a race header, intake, Kpro and a tune. I tuned at 201whp, several k20a motor with similar mods have tuned both lower and just a couple of hp higher on the same mustang dyno that I tuned on.

The LSD is a upgrade from open, but it is nothing compared to a Torson ATB. For our cars though the gearing IMO is to short with the K20a tranny. K20a engines are over priced it is all about the JDM bling

If you are lucky enough to get the PRC ecu then that is limited to around 110mph without Kpro, a PRB ecu will work fine with the motor though. All and all for ease of the swap, potential, and price the K20a2 is hands down the best motor to go with.