91 accord ex.
the timing belt went out.. we already have the belts off and everything. head is still attached.

is there a way to check if the valves are ok before putting everything back together?
or
are the valves pretty much messed up every time the timing belt snaps?


i searched, and there is alot of info on the belt.. but i did not find what i was looking for....
anybody?
TIA .

 

my bro's f22 timing belt broke and it did bend some valves, he put it together anyway and it had a loud tick but ran semi-good but not as good as before. A few weeks later it made a huge clunk inside and died at 2500rpm in 5the gear. He still hasnt pulled it apart but it cant be good!!!

 

it is an interference engine, so usually the sucker is toast

 

thats what im afraid of... just wondering if theres a way to check the head.... would doing a valve adjustment tell me?


i dont wanna just slap the new belts and stuff in there just to have to take it all apart again...

 

Before you mess with the valve adjustment, do a valve clearance measurement, the bent valve will have a larger than normal clearance, this is not a proof positive test but only a guide, your valve could have been out by one or two thousanths anyways, but a larger gap is where you concentrate your testing.

Next test is to pull plugs, put each cylinder to TDC on compression stroke (one at a time) to close both valves, insert compression guage with schrader valve removed, insert shop air to compression gauge quick disconnect, (without the gauge, hose only) pressurize the cylinder, hold the crank pulley to prevent the crank from spinning, no air should leak out the intake or exhaust pipe, a better test just like this at a shop is done with a leak down gauge set designed for this test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Before you mess with the valve adjustment, do a valve clearance measurement, the bent valve will have a larger than normal clearance, this is not a proof positive test but only a guide, your valve could have been out by one or two thousanths anyways, but a larger gap is where you concentrate your testing.

Next test is to pull plugs, put each cylinder to TDC on compression stroke (one at a time) to close both valves, insert compression guage with schrader valve removed, insert shop air to compression gauge quick disconnect, (without the gauge, hose only) pressurize the cylinder, hold the crank pulley to prevent the crank from spinning, no air should leak out the intake or exhaust pipe, a better test just like this at a shop is done with a leak down gauge set designed for this test.</TD></TR></TABLE>


thanks bro, just what i was looking for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Themuffinman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it is an interference engine, so usually the sucker is toast </TD></TR></TABLE>

From my experience it isnt that automatic. You really have about a 50/50 chance of bending a valve.

 

Isn't it dependent on exactly where the pistons were when the belt snapped.

 

yes ^ per cylinder but one will definatley be the at the right sequence to bend a valve and it wil be out of specs by more than a 1 or 2 thousandths like some on else said ... boys put the guns down, everybody just f*ck off at the same time! ERRR


Modified by Blamm!! at 9:18 PM 9/26/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GsDAteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

From my experience it isnt that automatic. You really have about a 50/50 chance of bending a valve. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Interesting, good to know, thanks GsDA

Everything I had seen on HT was essentially tbelt snap + interference engine = baddddd

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Everything I had seen on HT was essentially tbelt snap + interference engine = baddddd</TD></TR></TABLE>
same here.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBL9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't it dependent on exactly where the pistons were when the belt snapped. </TD></TR></TABLE>
think it depends on more where the valves where... because the pistons are still going to be moving... correct?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">91 accord ex.
the timing belt went out.. we already have the belts off and everything. head is still attached.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
verdict reached:

my brother went ahead and took the head off, just going to drop it off at a machine shop tomorrow so they can rebuild it. that and add all the necessary stuff to the front, new belts, water pump, tensioners... etc... etc... if it dont start burning oil, should be good for another 100k.

 

Just in case the kit does not come with, do the cam and crank seals and balancer shaft seal if you have that engine and add on the seal retainer if not already installed, again IA. Flush out the entire cooling system prior to installing new antifreeze, the coolant is only as good as the weakest component (used coolant). Make some good marks at the timing marks all the way around in case it will be on the road long enough to need the job again in the future, it also helps to detect a problem if you are off by a tooth and do not discover it until later.

 

Just curious, but what was the milage on the car when it snapped and how long has it been since the last timing belt change?

 

the car is almost 210k i believe...
we bought it used and do not know the last time it was changed.. but we've had it almost 2 years now...

and the belt was actually shredded... ill try and take a pic of it later if my bro didnt throw it away yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interesting, good to know, thanks GsDA

Everything I had seen on HT was essentially tbelt snap + interference engine = baddddd </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well its never a good thing and there is always a good chance you will mess something up so thats why you here alot of people say that. Its just not something you want to risk.

But really though, out of all the belts me and my friends have broken more often than not the valves are fine. I just broke one about a year ago in my DA and the motor was reving at like 6K and it didnt do anything. But yet the first one that ever broke on me broke at idle and bent some valves, so yeah figure that one out.

 

well...

3 cylinders tapped the valves at least... if it was enough to make a difference or not, i dont know.. but there was definitely some touching goin on there....


we're still gonna go ahead and drop the head off at a machine shop to get rebuilt anyway.. just to be safe.

 

Did you do a valve clearance test to see it there was a measurable difference?