D-stock Setup recommendations?
I know there are plenty of D-stock cone killers in here. I recently returned #171 to stock form (or I should say D-stock legal form). Does anyone have recommendations on how to set the car up for D-stock. I guess I'm looking for tire suggestions, alignment recommendations, ect.
Thanks in advance. I already do have Mazda Millenia wheels
-Larkin
Thanks in advance. I already do have Mazda Millenia wheels
-Larkin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecjerry »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> RT 615's waiting to go on as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I haven't autoxed in a while but i'm sure that is the most popular choice
I haven't autoxed in a while but i'm sure that is the most popular choice
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jgirard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I haven't autoxed in a while but i'm sure that is the most popular choice</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's popular for street tire classes. Stock class is probably Kuhmo V710's or Hoosiers.
I haven't autoxed in a while but i'm sure that is the most popular choice</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's popular for street tire classes. Stock class is probably Kuhmo V710's or Hoosiers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Larkin W. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's popular for street tire classes. Stock class is probably Kuhmo V710's or Hoosiers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. I believe most of the competive DS ITR's run R-comps. I had RT615's and they did well, but I'd still prefer R-Comps.
It's popular for street tire classes. Stock class is probably Kuhmo V710's or Hoosiers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. I believe most of the competive DS ITR's run R-comps. I had RT615's and they did well, but I'd still prefer R-Comps.
FWIW, the one time I ran RA-1's instead of 615's I couldn't tell the diffrence in grip levels on the AutoX course. I attempted to scrub them for heat but they would go cold while I sat in line so I don't think they did much for me. Obviously, the road course is a completely diff story.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FWIW, the one time I ran RA-1's instead of 615's I couldn't tell the diffrence in grip levels on the AutoX course. I attempted to scrub them for heat but they would go cold while I sat in line so I don't think they did much for me. Obviously, the road course is a completely diff story.</TD></TR></TABLE>
From what I understand, RA-1's aren't a great Auto-x tire, because they need much more heat.
From what I understand, RA-1's aren't a great Auto-x tire, because they need much more heat.
Hoosiers. 225/45/15 front, 205/50/15 rear on Millenia wheels. Only way to win DS, period.
As for the rest, do a K&N drop-in and make sure your other motor parts are fresh (rotor, cap, plug wires, etc).
Koni yellows are also the preferred shock. Some people run the SPSS valving.
As for the rest, do a K&N drop-in and make sure your other motor parts are fresh (rotor, cap, plug wires, etc).
Koni yellows are also the preferred shock. Some people run the SPSS valving.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it safe to run 225/45/15 on 6" wide rims?!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
It's not the preferred method, but there's no other alternative in D Stock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes.
It's not the preferred method, but there's no other alternative in D Stock.
FWIW, Tire Rack was (is?) doing great discounts on all the V710s. Some folks swear by Hoosiers, but I think my AAArrr is faster on the Kumhos. Plus they're cheaper.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What have you decided Larkin?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I may just get Azenis 615 for next season and go from there. I'm not even close to competitive enough to go to nationals at the moment, so I mines well keep driving on street tires until I feel its time to upgrade tires.
I may just get Azenis 615 for next season and go from there. I'm not even close to competitive enough to go to nationals at the moment, so I mines well keep driving on street tires until I feel its time to upgrade tires.
The guys you really want to answer this are in Topeka right now, and we won't have 2007 nationals results until Friday afternoon. But Ill chime in anyway
I'll start by saying this: I don't claim to be a great driver. But a better driver trophied in my car at nationals last year. So the setup is capable.
Like Todd said: Hoosiers, 225 in front, 205 in back, on Millenias is the standard setup. You'll probably want to use a spacer in the front because the tires will rub a hole in the fender liner on hard turns if you don't.
I've heard rumors that at least one natls contender is experimenting with 275 Hoosiers in front. I can't imagine what those must look like on a 6" rim. The 225 look ridiculous enough:
Shocks: Revalved Koni yellow single adjustables are a great start. You can always get them converted to double adjustable when you're ready to go for the championship...
Alignment: I run about 1/8 total toe out front, 0 toe rear. But mine is a daily driver, so I'm a little conservative.
I use a jdm itr front sway bar. The jury is still out on this, as I know some fast people who have tried it and are thinking of switching back to stock.
Drop-in Koni filter. Exhaust: since this is more about weight savings than making power, the cheap way is to just pull the muffler off for big events. I hear the magna flow is a good streetable compromise, that saves about 8 lbs over stock.
Hope that helps.
I'll start by saying this: I don't claim to be a great driver. But a better driver trophied in my car at nationals last year. So the setup is capable.
Like Todd said: Hoosiers, 225 in front, 205 in back, on Millenias is the standard setup. You'll probably want to use a spacer in the front because the tires will rub a hole in the fender liner on hard turns if you don't.
I've heard rumors that at least one natls contender is experimenting with 275 Hoosiers in front. I can't imagine what those must look like on a 6" rim. The 225 look ridiculous enough:

Shocks: Revalved Koni yellow single adjustables are a great start. You can always get them converted to double adjustable when you're ready to go for the championship...
Alignment: I run about 1/8 total toe out front, 0 toe rear. But mine is a daily driver, so I'm a little conservative.
I use a jdm itr front sway bar. The jury is still out on this, as I know some fast people who have tried it and are thinking of switching back to stock.
Drop-in Koni filter. Exhaust: since this is more about weight savings than making power, the cheap way is to just pull the muffler off for big events. I hear the magna flow is a good streetable compromise, that saves about 8 lbs over stock.
Hope that helps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by davidnyc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't you need some sort of muffler to remain legal for stock? Even if it is a gutted shell of a muffler?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everything downstream of the cat is open to modification. The only caveat is if a site has sound limits, you have to meet those. But there is no requirement that you have a muffler in Stock classes.
The actual rule is:
"Any part of the exhaust system beyond (downstream from) the
header/manifold or catalytic converter, if so equipped, may be
substituted provided the system meets the requirements of 3.5."
And it is interpreted as 'in place of my stock muffler, I have substituted one made of air'
Everything downstream of the cat is open to modification. The only caveat is if a site has sound limits, you have to meet those. But there is no requirement that you have a muffler in Stock classes.
The actual rule is:
"Any part of the exhaust system beyond (downstream from) the
header/manifold or catalytic converter, if so equipped, may be
substituted provided the system meets the requirements of 3.5."
And it is interpreted as 'in place of my stock muffler, I have substituted one made of air'
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bender »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The guys you really want to answer this are in Topeka right now, and we won't have 2007 nationals results until Friday afternoon. But Ill chime in anyway
</TD></TR></TABLE>
We've got several guys from our club here in NC that are there now and I'm jeolous as hell.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results & hope that an ITR can win it this year again.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
We've got several guys from our club here in NC that are there now and I'm jeolous as hell.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results & hope that an ITR can win it this year again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm looking forward to seeing the results & hope that an ITR can win it this year again.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results & hope that an ITR can win it this year again.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ditto.
you say you've got mazda millenia wheels, as its a matter of course, whats the benefit of using those wheels then over stock ones?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tartje »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you say you've got mazda millenia wheels, as its a matter of course, whats the benefit of using those wheels then over stock ones?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think they are about 4 lbs lighter than the stock wheels. Also, they match the requirements for D-stock, and can usually be found for about $200 for a set of 4.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I think they are about 4 lbs lighter than the stock wheels. Also, they match the requirements for D-stock, and can usually be found for about $200 for a set of 4.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Larkin W. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think they are about 4 lbs lighter than the stock wheels. Also, they match the requirements for D-stock, and can usually be found for about $200 for a set of 4.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
aaah, ok. i did wonder this
sounds like UKDM wheels would be just the ticket too if you could get them for a reasonable price
I think they are about 4 lbs lighter than the stock wheels. Also, they match the requirements for D-stock, and can usually be found for about $200 for a set of 4.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
aaah, ok. i did wonder this
sounds like UKDM wheels would be just the ticket too if you could get them for a reasonable price
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tartje »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
aaah, ok. i did wonder this
sounds like UKDM wheels would be just the ticket too if you could get them for a reasonable price
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are UKDM wheels 15" or 16" ? If 16" you cannot use them in stock class.
aaah, ok. i did wonder this
sounds like UKDM wheels would be just the ticket too if you could get them for a reasonable price
</TD></TR></TABLE>Are UKDM wheels 15" or 16" ? If 16" you cannot use them in stock class.


