I have a 94 civic, and I went out to the local drag strip around here and absolutely snapped an axle. I was woundering what are my options for upgraded axles? I appreciate it!

BTW, its an LS integra trans (non- hydro).

 

honda-tech market place
driveshaft shop.
password-jdm.
autozone
advance auto parts
junkyard.
why dont you just look for yourself.

 

Autozone has a decent selection with good prices, id check there first.

 

Find the cheapest axle you can. There's no need for built axles. You aren't making any power that would require beefy axles.

 

Well, it sure seems I have enough power to need upgraded shafts if I twisted and then broke one.

And as far as Autozone and places like that, Im not going to replace an axle to only have it torqued apart again.

I apreciate the help, and i dont mean to sound like an asshat, but where do I find beefier, stronger axles?!

 

the axle was probably already weak and old, your LS motor is not an axle torque snapping monster

 

get a set of used OEM axles.
the reason it snapped was because its probably a rebuild axle that has been welded or is made of lower grade metal than oem

think about it. do you think you make more power than a itr
do type r's snap axels. i dont think so.
if you want waste your money and buy sage 472148 axels so you feel better

 

Omg, I think someone just wanted to brag that they snapped an axle. Wow. We're impressed.


Seriously though, just go to O'reilly's and buy an axle. If you break that one, you get a brand new one to replace it. Changing axles isn't that huge of a job.

 

DRIVE SLOWER!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kajornklin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DRIVE SLOWER!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I about fell outta my chair when I read that, haha.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drtysohc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Omg, I think someone just wanted to brag that they snapped an axle. Wow. We're impressed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yepp, you are right. Anymore whitty things to say?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ihaterust &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a set of used OEM axles.
the reason it snapped was because its probably a rebuild axle that has been welded or is made of lower grade metal than oem

think about it. do you think you make more power than a itr
do type r's snap axels. i dont think so.
if you want waste your money and buy sage 472148 axels so you feel better</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its quite possible I make the near/same or possibly more power than an ITR in its form right now.
The thing about these axlestho, they have less than 5k on them as the motor swap is very recent.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the axle was probably already weak and old, your LS motor is not an axle torque snapping monster </TD></TR></TABLE>

It was last friday night...

 

what does your LS motor have that your making ~165-170whp

 

what kind of axels are they.
if you say ebay chinese "swap" axels im gonna laugh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what does your LS motor have that your making ~165-170whp</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I know it wont make 170whp. I think a reasonable range for the car is ~155whp.
So far what I have done is obviously the B18B block, and inside the block are Golden Eagle rods, ARP rod bolts (for higher revs) Integra R pistons, balanced crank, B16 SiR 2 head. CTR or ITR cams on the way along with a thinner Buddy Club head gasket and a studded head. As for the computer; MUGEN computer mapping, also it was converted over to OBD-0 because the dash looks like a christmas tree with OBD-1. So with the MUGEN style map, it raises the the redline to 9K and the changeover to 5800 RPM. Its reasonable to think with the ITR cams I should be very close to the ~160-165 whp mark.

And as for the stuff that doesnt make more power, ITR LSD, ACT AI4-XTSS clutch. So I think the drivetrain shock of the launch may have broke the axle. But it wasnt the joints that went, it was the actual rod the snapped right before the knuckle.
So I dunno. I guess what Im going to do since I found axles for $799 is just go down to autozone and buy the lifetime warranty axles, so when I do break another one, I can just return it and get another, free.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ihaterust &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of axels are they.
if you say ebay chinese "swap" axels im gonna laugh</TD></TR></TABLE>
OEM

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ2 LSVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, I know it wont make 170whp. I think a reasonable range for the car is ~155whp.
So far what I have done is obviously the B18B block, and inside the block are Golden Eagle rods, ARP rod bolts (for higher revs) Integra R pistons, balanced crank, B16 SiR 2 head. CTR or ITR cams on the way along with a thinner Buddy Club head gasket and a studded head. As for the computer; MUGEN computer mapping, also it was converted over to OBD-0 because the dash looks like a christmas tree with OBD-1. So with the MUGEN style map, it raises the the redline to 9K and the changeover to 5800 RPM. Its reasonable to think with the ITR cams I should be very close to the ~160-165 whp mark.

And as for the stuff that doesnt make more power, ITR LSD, ACT AI4-XTSS clutch. So I think the drivetrain shock of the launch may have broke the axle. But it wasnt the joints that went, it was the actual rod the snapped right before the knuckle.
So I dunno. I guess what Im going to do since I found axles for $799 is just go down to autozone and buy the lifetime warranty axles, so when I do break another one, I can just return it and get another, free.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You know all about this stuff and you don't know any good axels out there?

I'd go with a Stage 1 Gator axels.

 

You do preload, right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondamanXxX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You know all about this stuff and you don't know any good axels out there?

I'd go with a Stage 1 Gator axels.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im new to the Honda family. Ive been into RX-7's forever.
Thanks for the advice. Ill check those out.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock_honda_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You do preload, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yessir.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondamanXxX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd go with a Stage 1 Gator axels.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Not to change the subject, but I'm used to racing from a roll. How do you preload a FWD car?

 

Pull up the E-brake, Set your RPMs at the desired launching speed, Let the clutch out till it touches, Then dump the clutch. That way you take up all the slack so it don't a slam together and break things.

As for the axle thing, tons of High HP guys in the SOHC FI forum run axles from autozone and warenty them when they break. Which they don't seem to do that often.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock_honda_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pull up the E-brake, Set your RPMs at the desired launching speed, Let the clutch out till it touches, Then dump the clutch. That way you take up all the slack so it don't a slam together and break things.
</TD></TR></TABLE> &lt;&lt;&lt;So if u do this correctly when do u release the ebrake? Unless u dont.......lol. Lots of smoke but i dont think that would be good if ur trying not to break things lol. Im assuming u drop the brake as u drop the clutch right?

 

Yep, left that part out. holding the brake is just to keep you from rolling.

 

hmm never new that. Thats quite nifty. Thanks.