i was wondering how safe is it to run a turbo on a stock B18C1 and how long will it last and what do you guys recomend

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M7EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was wondering how safe is it to run a turbo on a stock B18C1 and how long will it last and what do you guys recomend</TD></TR></TABLE>
do some research.
and YES it will be fine. if you want to be careful run 8 lbs and it should last a long time and make decent power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by simplegreenmachine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you want to be careful run 8 lbs and it should last a long time and make decent power</TD></TR></TABLE>

....
8 lbs on a 14b? or a 35r? that's why you dont use psi as a variable in determining safeness or whatever.

if you give us an idea of what kind of turbo and what not you're going to go with, we can help determine the amount of psi you can safely run with the given turbo, keeping reliability.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr x civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

....
8 lbs on a 14b? or a 35r? that's why you dont use psi as a variable in determining safeness or whatever.

if you give us an idea of what kind of turbo and what not you're going to go with, we can help determine the amount of psi you can safely run with the given turbo, keeping reliability. </TD></TR></TABLE>

we have a winner

 

ok then how much psi can i run on a stck ls safely with a t3/t4

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slowass2dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok then how much psi can i run on a stck ls safely with a t3/t4</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're not being specific enough

 

lol how more specific do u want me to get its a t3/t4 .60a/r its a stock b18b1 with a block gurdle, and a block guard...also has new bearings, new piston rings, arp rod bolts, arp head studs, and all new seals. cheap ebay turbo manifold, witha 2.75 straighback exhaust

 

Boost is overrated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boost is overrated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how come?

 

if you an't got the money go with a n/a set up, if your want real power and have the cash and time, go with the boost

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boost is overrated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ROFL

 

m7eg6, try this section for all your answers:

https://honda-tech.com/zeroforum/16

 

Boost is good, Boost i great, when i hear a bov i wanna **********.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slowass2dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol how more specific do u want me to get its a t3/t4 .60a/r its a stock b18b1 with a block gurdle, and a block guard...also has new bearings, new piston rings, arp rod bolts, arp head studs, and all new seals. cheap ebay turbo manifold, witha 2.75 straighback exhaust </TD></TR></TABLE>

keep it under 300whp with a good tune and you'll be fine. until that manifold breaks anyway.

 

Boost???

NA's BEST!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr x civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

....
8 lbs on a 14b? or a 35r? that's why you dont use psi as a variable in determining safeness or whatever.

if you give us an idea of what kind of turbo and what not you're going to go with, we can help determine the amount of psi you can safely run with the given turbo, keeping reliability. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM WERKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you an't got the money go with a n/a set up, if your want real power and have the cash and time, go with the boost </TD></TR></TABLE>

responses like this are pathetic. think about what you just said. here's an ideal NA setup (no shortcuts, etc)

full catback - around 450
any 4-1 or 421 header - around 350
intake - 60
ITBs - about 650
skunk2 stage 2 cams - 550
aem tru time cam gears - 110
toda titanium retainers - 200
supertech dual valve springs - 190
super tech race valves - 240
total = 2800
total with labor = 3200

this isn't even including management and pistons.

a basic greddy kit for b series is also about 3200, but also comes with emanage (not really recommended, but it'll do for a stock internal setup), probably 310cc injectors, and anything else you need.
with a turbo, you'd probably need to buy a 255 fuel pump (100 bucks) and the miscellaneous gauges.

the difference cost-wise between these is only about 200 - 350, but the power difference is much greater.

sorry bud. before you give advice, know what you're talking about, unless you like to learn by getting bitched at.

 

pawned..check mate

 

I am just wandering cause I am missing something but why does it matter what turbo you have. cause to me 10psi is 10psi on any turbo and the only diffrence is how big the turbo is when you get that 10psi smaller turbos have more lag but like I said i might be missing something thats why I am asking. to me if you account for atmosperic pressure and then add your boost you still have the same amount of pressure no matter what. thats why they do measure it in psi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boost is overrated. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Whoaaaaa

Easy with the profanity there .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Whoaaaaa

Easy with the profanity there .</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know right... damn.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrhatch2356 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats why they do measure it in psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

orly? so then why do different turbos have different cfm flow rates?

 

n/a is best if you want realibty,do you just want to drag or do you want to auto cross or what. is so you don't want boost cuz of throtle response but if your darging go ahead and boost it

 

Anything is reliable if done CORRECTLY.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boost is overrated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Um ok. You've obviously never had a 600+whp set up.

Its not the boost you run, its the power you make. Boosting a stock motor sucks because your days are numbered. I don't care what anyone says. The internals can't take it. Especially on a DD. Build the bottom end and get a good tune. I'm talking a sleeved block as well as forged internals.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doostur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anything is reliable if done CORRECTLY.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope. Reliability goes out the window as soon as you start modifying your motor. I don't care if its N/A or turbo. If you aren't breaking ****, you aren't making power.