ok so i over reved my y7 by mistake i missed a gear thought i was in it and smashed the gas and it just went (late for work)... but now i have a jdm d15b and the car is a 00 lx what ecu do i have?? and how do i install a rev limiter onto the ecu and at what point in the rpm range should i install it??

 

your ecu should have a stock revlimiter on it. you can get that tuned to change where it is but it should have one iregadless.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egB16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your ecu should have a stock revlimiter on it. you can get that tuned to change where it is but it should have one iregadless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i believe all jdm ecu's have rev limiters correct me if im wrong... what u think is the perfect rpm to set it?? by the way the motor is stock besides exedy stage 1 clutch and full exhauts

 

it depends on the redline. my jdm b16 redlines at 8300 so i set mine for 8700. i think 500 over is more then plenty. its a preference thing.

 

yea but your motor revs higher than mine does... so i cant rev over redline like you... i thought we werent supposed to rev over redline anyways???? i would probably set it where the engine stops making power at around 7k

 

lol i dont rev past 8300 but the limiter is a safety in case i have a mis shift (i have before) you dont want your limiter right at redline or it will bounce off before you shift. if you quit making power at 7k and dont wanna rev past that set it for 7200 and youll be fine. you always need to leave room for error on your ecu in case it limites you 100 rpm to early.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea but your motor revs higher than mine does... so i cant rev over redline like you... i thought we werent supposed to rev over redline anyways???? i would probably set it where the engine stops making power at around 7k</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont rev your D series past like 8k max. You wont make any power up there anyway. I think peak is like 6k or something. But you've also got to consider the next gear. So:

Just shift where the factory ECU's redline is. By factory ECU, i mean the JDM D15B vtec ecu. It should be around 7000-7500.

The ECU wont help if you put it in the wrong gear, btw. The wheels are driving the motor at that point. Rev limiter or not, the engine is going to rev to where the wheels take it. If you hadn't have smashed the gas, the tires would have probably locked up first, and you might have saved the motor. Oh well. D series are easy come easy go.

 

by the way the d15b feels significantly faster than the old y7 and i know it has about 25 horses on it but it feels like 40 this little bitch pulls hard for a single cam... and i say this because these motors are all in the same category.... slowwwww

 

thanks guys

 

lol... 20 NA hp is alot man. thats like saying a gsr shouldnt be faster than an rs... but it has like 20 hp more... thats alot.

 

well yea i guess 20 hp is a lot but people just designate all these engines as slow single cams and theres a difference betweeen them its more than meets the eye i like my motor but i think it was a little over priced i paid 800 for it wit tranny it was either this or a y8 which i also love lol

 

damn... shouda gone y8..... has great potential for turbo but also would have been faster stock. but w/e... save for a better setup if thats wat ur looking for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egB16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn... shouda gone y8..... has great potential for turbo but also would have been faster stock. but w/e... save for a better setup if thats wat ur looking for.</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually on h motors is says that the jdm d15b has 130 hp compared to the y8's 127 and the d15 also has a little more torque

 

Which JDM d15b? the obd1 (normal VTEC) or the JDM D15b with 3 stage Vtec?

I have the (OBD2) 3 stage, its got a real aggressive VTEC lobe profile.
It originally comes from the 1996-1999 Civic EK Ferio VTI in japan and canada.

 

mine is from the 92-95 VTi..... so its the obd1... where can i get that one u have cuz im gonna swap my other car and i been looking for that motor but no luck hmotors dont have it thats why i was just thinking of getting the y8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine is from the 92-95 VTi..... so its the obd1... where can i get that one u have cuz im gonna swap my other car and i been looking for that motor but no luck hmotors dont have it thats why i was just thinking of getting the y8</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually i got it from a canadian site
http://www.tigerjapanese.com/
Now they do ship fine, but their customer service is less than reputable, but they are a legit company.
Shipping took about a week from when i ordered, which wasnt too bad.

more specifically

https://www.tigerjapanese.com/...d=296


Only real issue i had was they never sent me an ECU, and it came out of an automatic, so i have to swap on my old Flywheel and a new intake manifold to support a 2-wire IAC in the back of the manifold. Low miles too, reciept showed it had 18,500 KMh on it, which is about what... 10k miles? Basically new. Allot of people downplay the motor as being slow, but this thing has got some pep to it, its a fun motor.

 

good find... looks exactly like the y8... and wow thats pretty expensive tho im guessing with shipping it comes out to almost 1k correct???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good find... looks exactly like the y8... and wow thats pretty expensive tho im guessing with shipping it comes out to almost 1k correct???</TD></TR></TABLE>

It basically is the JDM equivilant of a y8, a SOHC VTEC OBD2 motor... same sensors, everything.

Yes i paid about 925ish for it to be at my doorstep.
If you call tho, prices can vary according to mileage
Keep in mind mine had barely 10,XXX miles when i got it, basically brand new.

 

na thats too much for me im not big into getting a low mileage d series motor since they are reliable and last a long time i'll take one with 50k or more im fine with that im looking to pay around 500 on the street

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">na thats too much for me im not big into getting a low mileage d series motor since they are reliable and last a long time i'll take one with 50k or more im fine with that im looking to pay around 500 on the street</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, thats reasonably fine. Only reason why i bought from them was noone sold any replacments of a D16y7 or d16y8 (basically any OBD2 SOHC) motors, except personal ad's on ht, none of which were local.

 

remember you get what you pay for. paying $500 for a mid-high mileage d series is probably going to kick you in the *** a few years from now when its time for a rebuild, whereas $900 for a low mileage motor is going to reward you with a long lasting reliable motor. i say if you have the funds, put a b18b ls motor in it, 140hp non-vtec but has amazing torque (130ft-lbs). it will probably be able to keep up with a b16 from a dig.

and also d series dont like anything above 7500rpm. i rev'd mine to 8k through all 3 gears, by the top of third holding 8k for about 15 seconds, i felt it cut in power and it just stopped reving higher. almost positive that was valve float. later that night it started knocking so i had to trash that engine. im now rolling around with an ls/vtec swap (b18b bottom end, b16 head w/e ITR valvetrain and cams) and its amazing. its still untuned so im not beating on it 24/7 but its deffinetly a fun car now. should make about 170whp tuned but i dont have the funds to finsh it right now

my advice to you is make sure you have enoguh funds to finish it all at once, if not then wait a little longer. it will be better that way. also dont half *** ANYTHING, you will pay for it in the end. best of luck to you!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lordofdark176 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">remember you get what you pay for. paying $500 for a mid-high mileage d series is probably going to kick you in the *** a few years from now when its time for a rebuild, whereas $900 for a low mileage motor is going to reward you with a long lasting reliable motor. i say if you have the funds, put a b18b ls motor in it, 140hp non-vtec but has amazing torque (130ft-lbs). it will probably be able to keep up with a b16 from a dig.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i doubt it will keep up i drive a 00 4 door so its pretty heavy... but as long is i maintain my motor theres no reason why it wont last me for years if i buy that y8 wit mid-high mileage maintenance is the key

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lordofdark176 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">remember you get what you pay for. paying $500 for a mid-high mileage d series is probably going to kick you in the *** a few years from now when its time for a rebuild, whereas $900 for a low mileage motor is going to reward you with a long lasting reliable motor. i say if you have the funds, put a b18b ls motor in it, 140hp non-vtec but has amazing torque (130ft-lbs). it will probably be able to keep up with a b16 from a dig.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The LS motor is a great starting point for someone looking to get into a DOHC motor. They also serve as a great foundation for boost!

 

yea i will also take an ls motor if i find one for cheap.... now for an obd2 ls motor i would be willing to pay that type of price.. around 900

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egB16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol... 20 NA hp is alot man. thats like saying a gsr shouldnt be faster than an rs... but it has like 20 hp more... thats alot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your premise is correct. Your math is off lol.

Isnt the LS/GS like 140hp and the GSR is like 175? 170? lol i have one...i should know this. Either way, it makes around 30-35 more hp. That's freaking significant.