hey guys,

i just got a 93/94 delsol and it will turn over but it wont start, so i change the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, and i checked the fuel pump and it kicks on, i even thought it might have been the timing belt but its fine. and i went to discount auto and they told me that it could have been the battery so i bought a new one and nothing still. so if anybody knows anything else i can do to get it started please let me know.

i also went to check the fuses under the hood and there is no cover to tell me what fuses go to what. so if anyone can send it to me or give me a link where i can get it, so i know which fuse is which.

 

do you have spark. check with a screw driver and if not you need a new distributor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have spark. check with a screw driver and if not you need a new distributor</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont' do it this way. use the search function


to check the coil, you need a multimeter(DVOM).
using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals A and B and secondary winding. resistance may very depending on temperature but if done at room temp, it should be around these specs. (this is for a civic internal coil but I'm pretty sure all honda/acura internal coils have the same resistance)

Open up the distributor. you'll see the coil. remove the 2 screws holding down the the black/yellow wire(terminal A) and white/blue wire (terminal B).


Primary winding(between A and B terminals) should be around 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. terminal A(+, black/yellow wire) and terminal B(-, white/blue wire) are the terminals located to the bottom of the coil. just put the test probes of the DVOM on these 2 and measure the resistance.


Secondary Winding resistance(between A terminal and secondary winding terminal) is 13,200 to 19,800 ohms. so put the probe on terminal A(+, black/yellow wire) and the secondary winding which is on the other end of the coil that sticks out.

 

oh yea i forgot to say i replaced the cap and rotor with a clear one and it spark a lot so its does have spark.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cubanjoe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yea i forgot to say i replaced the cap and rotor with a clear one and it spark a lot so its does have spark.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have fuel pressure? Is the timing right? Did you check the firing order of your plug wires? Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on ? Have you tried to start it using starting fluid?

 

ok so last night i was working on the car and i was able to get the car started but, the only way it would start is if the timing was set all the way retarded or advanced. so then i took the dizzy out and fliped 180 out . and now i can get the car started and running but the engines idles between 900 and 3000 rpm going up and down. so i figured it was the ECU when i pulled it out it has the wrong computer in it it had a P06, so i put my P28 in it and it ran a lil better but it still idles wrong. so if anybody knows whats wrong with please let me know. im think the map senor or, TPS sensor, or some sort of senor.

THanks

Joe