i just gave my 94 dx hatch d15b7 a valve adjustment and when i started up the engine the ticking was still there.. any ideas or suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated.

and does anyone think it could be my fuel injectors? thanks

 

how fast is the ticking? is it constant?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JayKayNidas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how fast is the ticking? is it constant?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the ticking increases quicker as my rpms/acceleration do, and after driving for a good 10 minutes or until the engine is warm it gets quieter but if you listen hard u can still kinda hear it.

 

bump for more help

 

did you use the right specs for the valve gapping? could still not be in spec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mizzoEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for more help</TD></TR></TABLE>

not to sure about d-series, but the two things i have noticed with b-series motors arem that they have noisey valves and fuel injectors. maybe it's just a honda thing.

 

it's a common honda thing. chances are, you'll probably never get rid of it.

 

I always thought my d series sounds like a sewing machine. It has always had a little ticking from it. I just chalked it up it the fact that it is a sohc vtec there is just so much crammed into that little head. Or it could even be noisy injectors.

 

ok ill be open to the possible fact that after atempting the valve adjustment it could still be de-tuned, but i could swear i adjusted the damn things pretty good imo.

some were too tight and some were too loose and i only corrected the vlaves that seemed bad, and i used the right feeler gauges, 20 intake and 25 exhaust. the car still ticks like ****. <U>is there an extra special way to complete this successfully that im missing?</U>

 

BUMP

 

your suposed to set it in between two size gaps... like .020-.022 you need it between the two so it comse out to (or suposed to come out to) .021..... if you adjusted them and there still making noise its just a honda thing there not quiet motors.... anyway do you expect something with more then 30 moving parts to be quiet? re adjust EVERY valve and if its still there dont worry about it its just a honda thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mizzoEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some were too tight and some were too loose and i only corrected the vlaves that seemed bad, and i used the right feeler gauges, 20 intake and 25 exhaust. the car still ticks like ****. <U>is there an extra special way to complete this successfully that im missing?</U></TD></TR></TABLE>


ummmmmmm my helms shop manual says it's 0.007~0.009 intake and 0.009~0.011 exhast

i think you need to redo them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ummmmmmm my helms shop manual says it's 0.007~0.009 intake and 0.009~0.011 exhast

i think you need to redo them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ummmmmmm my helms shop manual says it's 0.007~0.009 intake and 0.009~0.011 exhast

i think you need to redo them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah thast in inches... convert that to MM and youll probably come up with the same thing...


what you need to do is

intake--.19-.21--- you should be at .20in (ideaily)
exhaust--.24-.26---.25in ideaily

so when your adjusting them dont just use .20in and guess... grab .19 and .21 tighten untill .19 wont go in and back it off till .19 just gose in ... now the .21 is there so you dont back it off to far... if you can fit the .21 your open too far... now if you wanna be 100% or close to it grab your .20 and if it JUST fits then your good.
good luck

 

Make sure you adjust to hot specs only the car is warmer 180F. If you set them to cold specs, try letting the car sit overnight and then do it.

 

You really should only adjust it when its cold. I've never heard of the hot settings.

 

just started working on my vlave adjustment again and a snapped a fuken nut off with the top of the screw, seems almost impossible to get out. i feel pretty screwed right now, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!!

 

replace that rocker.... you NEVER want to "hot" adjust valves cause when you start it up and its cold you could bend valves NEVER EVER EVER hot adjust a vavle train 1 metal expands and contracts 2 honda has their specs for when hte motors cold and 3 its a hot engine why would you want to work on a hot engine? especially in the head? and especially by the exhaust manifold? can you say burns?

 

the engine is completely cold, the car was off for more then 24 hours, whats the deal? i never said i "hot" adjusted it.

what do i gotta do to replace the rocker arm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by burnitdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's a common honda thing. chances are, you'll probably never get rid of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no it isnt. my motor has over 220k. i always do what i need to do to fix it and maintain it. AND i have no ticking sounds. its NOT a common thing.

might be cause of the oil youre using too. but you adjust one day, check again the next morning (or whenever you get to your completely cooled down car).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mizzoEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the engine is completely cold, the car was off for more then 24 hours, whats the deal? i never said i "hot" adjusted it.

what do i gotta do to replace the rocker arm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know you never said that stock_honda_coupe did and that is compleetly wrong.. if you do that you will expletive up alot of **** as well as possiabl burns.

you gotta take the cam out, take the rocker assembly out and replace that one.. or if you can get the stud out of it.. you said you snapped the nut off im assuming you broke the stud as well.. if you can turn it do that if not try tapping .. if you do decide to tap take it out cause you dont want metal shavins in you motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95_acc0rd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace that rocker.... you NEVER want to "hot" adjust valves cause when you start it up and its cold you could bend valves NEVER EVER EVER hot adjust a vavle train 1 metal expands and contracts 2 honda has their specs for when hte motors cold and 3 its a hot engine why would you want to work on a hot engine? especially in the head? and especially by the exhaust manifold? can you say burns? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I work at a mitsubishi dealership ant their valve adjust specs are hot. It sucks, and you burn the crap out of your self, but thats the specs we use.

If you have hot specs, do while the engine is hot, if cold specs, do it when the engine is cold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95_acc0rd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you gotta take the cam out, take the rocker assembly out and replace that one.. or if you can get the stud out of it.. you said you snapped the nut off im assuming you broke the stud as well.. if you can turn it do that if not try tapping .. if you do decide to tap take it out cause you dont want metal shavins in you motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i ended up trying to unscrew the snapped screw out by using a plyer but it came out a couple threads and couldnt budge anymore. then i noticed it was unable to come out upward because the bottom of the screw was thicker and caused restriction, so i shaved a line on the top of the snapped screw to create a good friction so i could use a flathead to screw it downward and out but the valve inside the spring is stopping it from unscrewing out completely, and while trying anyway to remove the screw i accidentally poped out the valve spring locks that held it in place with the vlave. now the spring is free and i guess i gotta take out the rocker arm assembly and get a valve spring compressor....

but do i really have to take out the camshaft too? because it looks like all i have to do is unscrew the 16 bolts out of the head (4 of them which hold the valve cover) and just pull out the rocker arms, but thats just my guess. its just that taking out my cammshaft is a little too much for me right now.