I hate the exhaust side where its sticks out an inch longer than most other garetts you see.

Is this because of the ball bearing or is there and exhaust side I can that has the flatter flange.

Here is mine



Here is what i want

 

you have the GT 4-bolt housing...you can also get the regular t3 4-bolt housing from a dealer

 

i think the difference also is that the GT outlet is 3 inch where the flush mounted 4 bolt is 2.5"

 

just go to vband housing it much easier to use.

The Gt housing do stick out about inch compared to std t31 housing that is cut for a gt wheel. THe t31 however is 2.5" as stated above.

 

Have you looked at the Tial turbine housings with Vband connection on both the inlet and outlet of the exhaust side?

http://www.tialsport.com/prod%...t3035

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18bturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just go to vband housing it much easier to use.

The Gt housing do stick out about inch compared to std t31 housing that is cut for a gt wheel. THe t31 however is 2.5" as stated above. </TD></TR></TABLE>

v band is the best thing ever. it makes instal and removal so much easier, and can improve fitment because you dont have 4 bolt holes to makee sure are aligned, and worry about clearance to get a wrench on the head of the bolts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have the GT 4-bolt housing...you can also get the regular t3 4-bolt housing from a dealer</TD></TR></TABLE>

correction, the t3 style DROP in housing. you cannot take a regular T3 4 bolt housing off the T31's and put it on. wont fit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

correction, the t3 style DROP in housing. you cannot take a regular T3 4 bolt housing off the T31's and put it on. wont fit </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol i stand corrected LOL. take out "regular"

 

weve got that gt30r t31 exhaust housing in stock if you are interested midwest.

 

I can't beleive no one has asked the obvious question...

Why is it such a problem that the flange is an 1" out farther than the standard housing? Other than the flange being a different size, a DP will most likely work for both housings. The flange simply needs to be changed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't beleive no one has asked the obvious question...

Why is it such a problem that the flange is an 1" out farther than the standard housing? Other than the flange being a different size, a DP will most likely work for both housings. The flange simply needs to be changed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it makes all the difference sometimes when trying to make clearance for a downpipe. its a tight fit on some of the ramhorns.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike@synapse motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it makes all the difference sometimes when trying to make clearance for a downpipe. its a tight fit on some of the ramhorns.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bah, lies. I know all about tight fitment (sig). Unless someone already built him a DP that has redicously large bends, I don't see it being a problem.

 

If I recall, he's boosting an S2K. I'm not sure how tight the fitment would be.

 

Unless he's trying to fit up a DP that was made for the wrong housing, It shouldn't be a problem. Sure a V-band housing may make it easier, but it also costs quite a bit. Just comes down to how much disposable bling you have

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't beleive no one has asked the obvious question...

Why is it such a problem that the flange is an 1" out farther than the standard housing? Other than the flange being a different size, a DP will most likely work for both housings. The flange simply needs to be changed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

S2000

Very little room to work with

Also I ha have had nothing but problems with my v bands and vband clamps.

 

Just have a machine shop mill it down for $50. Even if its high nickel cast steel, it won't be too hard on carbide. THey could really just bolt it down, set the coolant line, put the feed on low - and walk away. Just make sure they know it might be hard **** (nickel and heat cycled), but being fairly brittle (rather, not very ductile) it should go fine.

My guess would be they made it raised because they wanted blind holes that don't peirce the wall. The T3 housings I've seen always have the holes go all the way through, which isn't the best for exhaust velocity. As long as you have enough threads, it will be fine.

As long as you can mock it up right and make it a bit reliable, there should be no reason you'd need a ultra fast removal. In my experience, the time removing that one flange is a tiny fraction of the other things needed to remove a turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just have a machine shop mill it down for $50. Even if its high nickel cast steel, it won't be too hard on carbide. THey could really just bolt it down, set the coolant line, put the feed on low - and walk away. Just make sure they know it might be hard **** (nickel and heat cycled), but being fairly brittle (rather, not very ductile) it should go fine.

My guess would be they made it raised because they wanted blind holes that don't peirce the wall. The T3 housings I've seen always have the holes go all the way through, which isn't the best for exhaust velocity. As long as you have enough threads, it will be fine.

As long as you can mock it up right and make it a bit reliable, there should be no reason you'd need a ultra fast removal. In my experience, the time removing that one flange is a tiny fraction of the other things needed to remove a turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You apparently havn't seen much of the GT30/35 exhaust housing Simply put...Milling it down would be a horrible idea. The reason it's so far out is to give the DP and nice smooth diameter change to a 3" flange (VS the 2.5" flange of of the t31 housing). Milling it down would remove the thread holes completely.

I say...suck it up, and deal with what you have. Or shell out the change for a new housing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You apparently havn't seen much of the GT30/35 exhaust housing Simply put...Milling it down would be a horrible idea. The reason it's so far out is to give the DP and nice smooth diameter change to a 3" flange (VS the 2.5" flange of of the t31 housing). Milling it down would remove the thread holes completely.

I say...suck it up, and deal with what you have. Or shell out the change for a new housing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How bad would it be if I had a 2.5 90 right of the turbo then flare it right away to a 2.5-3 inch pipe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestAutoWorks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How bad would it be if I had a 2.5 90 right of the turbo then flare it right away to a 2.5-3 inch pipe</TD></TR></TABLE>

With that housing I wouldn't reccomend it. However if you can get a t31 housing, a 2.5" pipe will be just fine. I'm willing to bet that the power loss between the GT30 housing and a full 3" DP and the mentioned setup would be negligible. I would however reccomend gettng the .82 or larger A/R if don't already have it.

Have you looked into a pie cut setup for the DP?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

With that housing I wouldn't reccomend it. However if you can get a t31 housing, a 2.5" pipe will be just fine. I'm willing to bet that the power loss between the GT30 housing and a full 3" DP and the mentioned setup would be negligible. I would however reccomend gettng the .82 or larger A/R if don't already have it.

Have you looked into a pie cut setup for the DP? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the gt30 with the .82 ar, fully spools at 3800 rpms on the s2000.

I have considered the pie cut, i just dont want welds breaking

 

the first one of these turbo's somebody brought to me to install, the turbo would not psychically fit on the manifold they had. at that point they had 2 options....get a new housing or get a new manifold. i ended up making a new manifold.

in some applications, that extra inch is a pain in the butt.....others its not so bad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the first one of these turbo's somebody brought to me to install, the turbo would not psychically fit on the manifold they had. at that point they had 2 options....get a new housing or get a new manifold. i ended up making a new manifold.

in some applications, that extra inch is a pain in the butt.....others its not so bad</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto, the GT 4 bolt sits even farther in then t3t4 4 bolt

 

A little off subject, but kinda not....how the hell much do the GT30 Tial Vband housings cost? No price on their site, no price ever mentioned...etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A little off subject, but kinda not....how the hell much do the GT30 Tial Vband housings cost? No price on their site, no price ever mentioned...etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

About mid 300s, but TiAL may want to come in on this.

 

we charge 375 for a gt3076r tial housing.