so i had a motor built by one of my friends. we didn't degree in the cams, basically 0'd them out. we took the car out for a spin, ran good for about 50 miles until we started hitting vtec. then all 8 exhaust valves tapped the pistons and imprinted themselves onto the pistons. is this because of timing, or because the valve reliefs in the pistons needed to be adjusted? also, yes the motor is overcammed, but i got the pro3's basically for free.

ls/vtec 81mm
mahle 12.5:1 pistons
eagle rods
stock 89mm crank
gsr head
skunk2 springs/retainers
stock valves
milled/shaved [unknown amount but alot]
stock headgasket
skunk2 pro3's
hondata s100 with a base program

 

piston clay ftw

Stage PRO 3: Extreme Street/Race cam designed to optimize mid-range and top end HP and TQ. Peak power
is increased and power band is moved 700rpm higher than Pro 2. No other high rpm racing cam
can come close to the Pro 3. Pro-Series valve train required.
Required: PRO SERIES Titanium Valve Springs & Retainers
Recommended: High Compression, Fuel Pressure Regulator, VTEC Controller, Modified ECU, Deep Valve Pocket Pistons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by building boost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> also, yes the motor is overcammed, but i got the pro3's basically for free.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

well now they cost you 8 valves plus an engine rebuild... those pro3 sure came cheap

if u rebuild u will need to clay the motor... and please degree them also.

 

PLUS the head is milled you say alot and you used a stock headgasket and did you use the proseries valve train?

 

The motor has to be clayed for clearances with those cams.
Looks like you will need a rebuild.

 

Your lucky you only bent the valves.

Invest in a degree wheel, clay and a tune next time.

 

lucky it wasn't valve to valve

 

driving around with no licence huh .....

 

Get smaller cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by building boost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i had a motor built by one of my friends. we didn't degree in the cams, basically 0'd them out. we took the car out for a spin, ran good for about 50 miles until we started hitting vtec. then all 8 exhaust valves tapped the pistons and imprinted themselves onto the pistons. is this because of timing, or because the valve reliefs in the pistons needed to be adjusted? also, yes the motor is overcammed, but i got the pro3's basically for free.

ls/vtec 81mm
mahle 12.5:1 pistons
eagle rods
stock 89mm crank
gsr head
skunk2 springs/retainers
stock valves
milled/shaved [unknown amount but alot]
stock headgasket
skunk2 pro3's
hondata s100 with a base program</TD></TR></TABLE>

The first problem find out how much you shaved the head.. it think that would be important. Clay the pistons install and degree the cams check clearences. you might have to mill the reliefs for clearence.. But if you looking for a cheaper build with less power.. compensate whats milled with head gasket thickness.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by building boost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then all 8 exhaust valves tapped the pistons and imprinted themselves onto the pistons.

mahle 12.5:1 pistons
milled/shaved [unknown amount but alot
skunk2 pro3's
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I answered your question using your own post. My favorite part is in Bold

 

haha, what a moron.
im really surprised we dont see more of these threads. it probably happens more than we know but the guys that have the problems probably know they were moronic for not checking clearances out first, therefor they wont post their problem.
you didnt check V2V, you 0'd out the cam gears. just the simple task of checking V2V on these cams would have most likely netted you 0 problems until further down the road.
i gotta tell ya, this is an awesome thread. LOVIN IT

 

we love you too.

 

You should have started with removing the head and checking valve to valve. The results at 0,0 will scare you, but would have saved your motor. Pro series cams must be degreed in. The milling isnt necessarily a problem as long as you had taken the proper steps to compensate. I run a milled head (40 thou) with pro2's and mine doesnt hit. Sinking valves does wonders. Start at 20 thou on the exhaust side. But again you will need to measure since its kind of a trial and error thing. You might as well learn the right way since you've already learned what happens when you guess. On a side note, Im surprised the motor idled.

 

in all honesty those valves tapped right from the start. they probably self clearanced themselves out of each others way. im pretty sure when i checked my pro 3s they had 0 clearance at 0,0.
you might want to refer to these:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1891614

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2003538

 

thank you for all the responses. yes it is idiotic to just throw the cams in even though they were huge. yes i have pro series valvetrain. i'm sorry i asked a question and got owned numerous times, but this site is for knowledge and help. so thank you for all the helpful responses, and no thank you for the name calling which will be reported. yes i will clay the motor and buy a cam degree kit from belbin to adjust my cam gears appropriately. . .