Hey guys I've seen different threads that say how to do this but I just can't get it.
I tried all kinds of wrenches and the thing just won't move, it feels like the wrench will snap before the bolt will.

Does anyone have any tips? What tools or methods would you guys recommend? It seems since Honda last changed the fluid a few years ago they over torqued it like crazy. I've been told by a mechanic friend that it's 60 kg of torque that must be on the bolt.

What tools or methods would help me break it lose?

My father-in-law is worried we might damage the transmission by cracking something or breaking the seal. Is this a real possibility or worry?

Are there any precautions to worry about or is it just undo the plug and torque it back or do we need any other parts or things to seal it good?

Thanks for your suggestions guys

Cheers

 

I just took a rubber mallet and banged the hell out of it

 

Thanks thatasiankidtony
Cool but isn't there a danger that you may crack the bolt or worse?

Keep the replies coming guys

 

If it's like that, use an impact driver. Quick. So less stress at a shorter time. Instead of putting stress for a long period.

60kg of force is a lot. It's around 132 ft lbs. (not sure if I converted right) Well good luck. Worst come to worst, tell Honda to do a tranny change. If they break the bolt, it's Honda's fault =P

 

Thanks The-Kid

Do you have any other suggestions?

Do you think this tool would be strong enough for the job?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/bro...=true

 

i would not use any form of impact on that bolt.

jsut stick a long cheater pipe on the ratchet and yank it loose with constantly applied pressure. last thing you want to do is crack the housing.

 

I couldn't see the link you posted. Impact driver can be bought at Homedepot, Lowes... Any hardware store or MOST auto parts store. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

Use a hammer to hit the top and creates lots of torque. It can sometimes exceed 320 ft. lbs.

 

Hi Eddiebx

Thanks for the tip but we're worried that a pipe and ratchet may be more likely to crack the housing or bolt.

What do you guys think?

It seems some think bar & ratchet and others think Impact Driver is the safer way?

 

Ok how about this, does anyone have the service manual and know what Honda might use or recommend to remove the bolt?

This has me worried because I don't want to damage the transmission by cracking anything

Thanks again guys, you're the best!

 

You can use a 3/8" breaker bar, or a rachet with a cheater bar. Try pulling on the bar (instead of pushing) to loosen. The plug bolt should only be torqued to 36 lb-ft. (If the bolt is very tight, a 3/8" extension is sometimes place in the plug bolt, and it is tapped lightly with a hammer, then remove extension, and proceed to loosen the bolt with the breaker bar or rachet.)

If you are too worry, just bring it to a mechanic to change it for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would not use any form of impact on that bolt.

jsut stick a long cheater pipe on the ratchet and yank it loose with constantly applied pressure. last thing you want to do is crack the housing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess depending on the application. For the impact driver, a medium tap to get it started. Well try the cheater method first. I've seen the drain bolt and it is thick. And you're loosening it. So yea try this method.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f22b2guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi Eddiebx

Thanks for the tip but we're worried that a pipe and ratchet may be more likely to crack the housing or bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>


A breaker bar and rachet is way safer than an impact gun. You can control the amount of pressure just as you would without using the bar, it just give you more leverage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The-Kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I guess depending on the application. For the impact driver, a medium tap to get it started. Well try the cheater method first. I've seen the drain bolt and it is thick. And you're loosening it. So yea try this method.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the only problem i see with the impact driver method is the direct force pounding down on the bolt on top of the torquing force. the tranny case is some what brittle as it is made out of a rigid cast aluminum

between and impact wrench and a cheater pipe though its probably about the same. though i would feel a bit better wiht jsut going at it manually wiht the cheater pipe, its only a small bolt how badly can it be stuck

 

Hey everyone I just want to say thanks for your advice and suggesting the breaker bar.

I went into crappy tire and bought one today.
I was able to have the bolt undone in just a few seconds!

Everything is good.

I'll also say Honda ATF Z1 is amazing stuff.
The car was shifting extremely harshly, was making a lot of whining sounds and took a long time to shift from Reverse to Drive etc...

It was so bad on a small hill if you go from R to D the car would roll back for a few seconds just like a standard. That is also gone now

Thanks again for everyone's help.

I'm glad I didn't waste my time and money to have Honda do it.

The only bad news is that I did see a number of small metal like shavings at the bottom of the oil pan but I kind of expected that because it felt like the transmission was on the way out! At least it drives and feels like a new transmission practically, it doesn't hesitate in shifting and it definitely doesn't shift late or harshly like before.

 

One more thing, I read in some threads that you should take the wheel off to access the drain bolt/plug.

At least for automatic transmissions you don't need to. You can easily see the bolt and reach for it with the wheel still on although you should jack the car up and jack it down as the oil drains to make sure you get it all out.

And about the breaker bar, remember that most bars seem to come with a 1/2" drive, that won't fit most ratchets so you'll need to make sure you buy a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter otherwise you'll be returning to the store again

I hope my thread helps someone.