Need to Change Timing belt but pulley no comming off
i have a 91' civic si with a b16 swap. i'm trying to take off the pulley bolt but it's not coming off. does any one know which way it goes to come off... plese let me know...
take off the starter, and have someone hold a crewdriver in the flywheel, then turn the bolt, jack up the car, take off the wheel, drop the engine some, use a very short extention and line the handle of the ratchet with the bumper, get a long pipe and slide the handle of the ratchet into the pipe. i know it is not much room to work with, but all you need to do is crack the bolt loose, then it is easy from there.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xtremehawn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 91' civic si with a b16 swap. i'm trying to take off the pulley bolt but it's not coming off. does any one know which way it goes to come off... plese let me know...
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When I had this problem on my DD, I took it to a shop 1.5 miles away and had them bust it off. Then I had them torque it down and I drove straight home. Over time I swear that pulley bolt gains torque so it's harder to get off.
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When I had this problem on my DD, I took it to a shop 1.5 miles away and had them bust it off. Then I had them torque it down and I drove straight home. Over time I swear that pulley bolt gains torque so it's harder to get off.
What I did was took the start off and had someone use a bry bar from letting the flywheel turn....then I used to some He-man strength and a large extension + another torque bar to get that bolt off.
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A old trick that may or may not work on the B motor is to put a wrench or ratchet on the bolt and add a extension if needed to let it hit the ground or other sturdy surface, then bump the starter over and it uses the starter gearing to break the bolt loose. This trick has helped me out more then once in the past.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted91crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A old trick that may or may not work on the B motor is to put a wrench or ratchet on the bolt and add a extension if needed to let it hit the ground or other sturdy surface, then bump the starter over and it uses the starter gearing to break the bolt loose. This trick has helped me out more then once in the past.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the motor is still in the car this is the best method, just remember to disconect your plugs
if the motor is still in the car this is the best method, just remember to disconect your plugs
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted91crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A old trick that may or may not work on the B motor is to put a wrench or ratchet on the bolt and add a extension if needed to let it hit the ground or other sturdy surface, then bump the starter over and it uses the starter gearing to break the bolt loose. This trick has helped me out more then once in the past.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would just tighten the bolt, since the engine spins counter-clockwise.
That would just tighten the bolt, since the engine spins counter-clockwise.
here is the special tool that i use. its works wonders and is hella cheap for a honda/acura specific tool..........$47 shipped to my house......

you use 2 breaker bars. on goes on the tab to help lodge it to the chassis or LCA and the with another breaker bar and socket to break it loose.

you use 2 breaker bars. on goes on the tab to help lodge it to the chassis or LCA and the with another breaker bar and socket to break it loose.
If you are going to use an impact gun, which is by far the easiest, it has to be of decent quality. I went through 3 of the cheap ones claiming up to 450 ft lbs. None of them even budged it. A buddy of mine brought over his Snap-On and it popped right off.
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/...27115
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
look under applications. Moroso "claims" their crank pulley tool fits the 1.5 motors
http://store.summitracing.com/...ation
not saying that I know this for sure, but I thought I'd put it out there
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
look under applications. Moroso "claims" their crank pulley tool fits the 1.5 motors
http://store.summitracing.com/...ation
not saying that I know this for sure, but I thought I'd put it out there
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jddwls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i still vote for the torch!! worked like magic for me!</TD></TR></TABLE>
and you call this magic??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jddwls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well to update, the pulley came off, took a whole lot of tlc. Had to wrap a chain wrench around it and hit it with an acetelyne torch. after burning the timing belt cover to crap, finally had enough to get it lose. with the 8ft bar on top of it. . . put in new motor, so as not to worry about it at all. . . .</TD></TR></TABLE>
and you call this magic??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jddwls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well to update, the pulley came off, took a whole lot of tlc. Had to wrap a chain wrench around it and hit it with an acetelyne torch. after burning the timing belt cover to crap, finally had enough to get it lose. with the 8ft bar on top of it. . . put in new motor, so as not to worry about it at all. . . .</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">righty tighty lefty loosey</TD></TR></TABLE>
QFT
QFT
exactly! worked like magic! never seen a magician make a fireball?
all seriousness though, mine was destroyed beyond belief, but heating up the bolt with an intact pulley, to stop rotation, it'll break free no problem. . . thats all i had to do with the motor i just dropped in
all seriousness though, mine was destroyed beyond belief, but heating up the bolt with an intact pulley, to stop rotation, it'll break free no problem. . . thats all i had to do with the motor i just dropped in
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondaisok »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unfortunately, this tool doesn't work on all of the motors, like my 91, HB w/ d15b1 for example.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, his is a B16, the pulley is different. that tool DOES work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jddwls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i still vote for the torch!! worked like magic for me!</TD></TR></TABLE>
GO AWAY!
well, his is a B16, the pulley is different. that tool DOES work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jddwls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i still vote for the torch!! worked like magic for me!</TD></TR></TABLE>
GO AWAY!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well, his is a B16, the pulley is different. that tool DOES work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless your motor is OBD0, then you have to sell it to a douchbag you talk to on the internet.
well, his is a B16, the pulley is different. that tool DOES work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless your motor is OBD0, then you have to sell it to a douchbag you talk to on the internet.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_si-r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is the special tool that i use. its works wonders and is hella cheap for a honda/acura specific tool..........$47 shipped to my house......

you use 2 breaker bars. on goes on the tab to help lodge it to the chassis or LCA and the with another breaker bar and socket to break it loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I borrowed a tool that looked like that from Hasport here in town (made to be more suitable for the CRX and custom
)
Came right off after that with a big breaker bar for the nut. Good luck

you use 2 breaker bars. on goes on the tab to help lodge it to the chassis or LCA and the with another breaker bar and socket to break it loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I borrowed a tool that looked like that from Hasport here in town (made to be more suitable for the CRX and custom
)Came right off after that with a big breaker bar for the nut. Good luck


