tuned today. couple vids!!
just got my hondata tuned today. mods are intake, header, rc440's. made 183.5hp
tuner said his dyno reads a little on the low side but I'm happy
heres a couple pics and vids...
http://s51.photobucket.com/alb...9.flv
http://s51.photobucket.com/alb...0.flv

tuner said his dyno reads a little on the low side but I'm happy
heres a couple pics and vids...
http://s51.photobucket.com/alb...9.flv
http://s51.photobucket.com/alb...0.flv

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMaDOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how can I get my car to the 195-200 range the easiest and cheapest?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Slap a snail on it
Nice vids and car.
If you want some good info on all motor setups check out the All motor section. There are a ton of setups: https://honda-tech.com/zeroforum/44
Slap a snail on it
Nice vids and car.
If you want some good info on all motor setups check out the All motor section. There are a ton of setups: https://honda-tech.com/zeroforum/44
Good looking #'s.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 19prelude03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of intake and header?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe he is using a Mugen intake, unsure of the header.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 19prelude03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of intake and header?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe he is using a Mugen intake, unsure of the header.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMaDOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's a mugen intake with an smsp header with no cat</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sweet looking R and the numbers are looking pretty good
Also
for getting top shelf parts for your R
Sweet looking R and the numbers are looking pretty good
Also
for getting top shelf parts for your R
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00TypeR1071 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sweet looking R and the numbers are looking pretty good
Also
for getting top shelf parts for your R
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks, can't see getting cheap parts for the best honda has to offer
Sweet looking R and the numbers are looking pretty good
Also
for getting top shelf parts for your R
</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks, can't see getting cheap parts for the best honda has to offer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellow blur »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">0 PSI?!?! What's going on there?! Something is seriously wrong with that picture...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not a tuner so what do you mean? am I supposed to show psi??
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm not a tuner so what do you mean? am I supposed to show psi??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMaDOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how can I get my car to the 195-200 range the easiest and cheapest?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you need some headwork, P+P and a bit bigger cams. there is no easy way around it. but that should do it.
you need some headwork, P+P and a bit bigger cams. there is no easy way around it. but that should do it.
thats what I'm affraid of, If I pull my head off I think some higher comp. pistons are on the way along with some head work.
how about not taking my head off? would a bigger throttle body and port match im do much? how about hondata im gasket?
how about not taking my head off? would a bigger throttle body and port match im do much? how about hondata im gasket?
yes, probably 200-210ish hopefully eventually. is changing cams really worth it in an itr? I thought the itr cams were very good. how much would I gain off of a mild cam?tks
Ohhh, ok. 
Realize that cams alone, aren't going to do that much. When you're doing an all motor setup, you need to think about ALL the parts working together.
You can't have VTEC killers on a stock bottom end, you can't have an Edelbrock Victor-X manifold on a stock engine, and you can't run 13:1CR on stock cams... Sure, you CAN do these things, but the results won't be very good, or as good as they could be with SUPPORTING MODIFICATIONS to extract the potential from these parts.
If you're shooting for 200-210whp, just keep balance in mind.
Hell, if you want to go 2.0 liter, with port work, a nice intake manifold/throttle body, on stock cams, you'd probably break 200whp.
Just for your information: In order to go 2.0 liter on a B18C5 (Or any B18, for that matter), you must sleeve the block if you want to bore over 82mm (Stock is 81mm bore). There are ways to acheive 2.0 liter without sleeving (i.e. A monster crank, 95mm or so), but most will tell you, it's best to increase bore to obtain 2.0 liter on a high revving B-Series.
So, this would be a fun list:
- Sleeved block
- 85mm bore
- Arias/JE/CP/etc. pistons, around 11.5:1CR
- Carillo/Eagle/Crower/etc. rods
- Rotating assembly balanced (A must, worth the money)
- RLZ/Alaniz/DFE/King Motorsports/Portflow/etc. head work. Just a basic port job, well worth the $800-$1,000 price tag.
- Edelbrock Performer-X intake manifold (Have it port matched with your head, along with your throttle body), people are getting VERY impressive results with this piece. Better that any other plenum on the market.
- Max Bore 70mm-65mm throttle body ($100, and well worth it. You just send them your throttle body)
That, paired with your existing bolt ons, would generate some very usable, and very fun power. And if you ever get bored with it, a head package would absolutely set off that setup.

Realize that cams alone, aren't going to do that much. When you're doing an all motor setup, you need to think about ALL the parts working together.
You can't have VTEC killers on a stock bottom end, you can't have an Edelbrock Victor-X manifold on a stock engine, and you can't run 13:1CR on stock cams... Sure, you CAN do these things, but the results won't be very good, or as good as they could be with SUPPORTING MODIFICATIONS to extract the potential from these parts.
If you're shooting for 200-210whp, just keep balance in mind.
Hell, if you want to go 2.0 liter, with port work, a nice intake manifold/throttle body, on stock cams, you'd probably break 200whp.
Just for your information: In order to go 2.0 liter on a B18C5 (Or any B18, for that matter), you must sleeve the block if you want to bore over 82mm (Stock is 81mm bore). There are ways to acheive 2.0 liter without sleeving (i.e. A monster crank, 95mm or so), but most will tell you, it's best to increase bore to obtain 2.0 liter on a high revving B-Series.
So, this would be a fun list:
- Sleeved block
- 85mm bore
- Arias/JE/CP/etc. pistons, around 11.5:1CR
- Carillo/Eagle/Crower/etc. rods
- Rotating assembly balanced (A must, worth the money)
- RLZ/Alaniz/DFE/King Motorsports/Portflow/etc. head work. Just a basic port job, well worth the $800-$1,000 price tag.
- Edelbrock Performer-X intake manifold (Have it port matched with your head, along with your throttle body), people are getting VERY impressive results with this piece. Better that any other plenum on the market.
- Max Bore 70mm-65mm throttle body ($100, and well worth it. You just send them your throttle body)
That, paired with your existing bolt ons, would generate some very usable, and very fun power. And if you ever get bored with it, a head package would absolutely set off that setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMaDOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, probably 200-210ish hopefully eventually. is changing cams really worth it in an itr? I thought the itr cams were very good. how much would I gain off of a mild cam?tks</TD></TR></TABLE>
No the intake mani and throttle body will not give you as much as your looking for.
remember: the function of the cams is to open valves to allow air/fuel in/out. if your cams are already working the best they can with the intake system you have, which is very efficiant, there will be no significant gains.
i beg to differ about the"cams won't do that much" comment, i've stumbled on quite a few setups with stock bottom ends and headwork in the 200+ range.
unfortunately the only way to truly get to your 200 goal is to take the head off and get work done. you already have good parts. send your head out to get worked and put some moderate cams in, you'll be set. another benefit of having the headwork done first, is if later down the road you want more torque and punch it out, you will only have to be concerned with upgrading the bottom end.
No the intake mani and throttle body will not give you as much as your looking for.
remember: the function of the cams is to open valves to allow air/fuel in/out. if your cams are already working the best they can with the intake system you have, which is very efficiant, there will be no significant gains.
i beg to differ about the"cams won't do that much" comment, i've stumbled on quite a few setups with stock bottom ends and headwork in the 200+ range.
unfortunately the only way to truly get to your 200 goal is to take the head off and get work done. you already have good parts. send your head out to get worked and put some moderate cams in, you'll be set. another benefit of having the headwork done first, is if later down the road you want more torque and punch it out, you will only have to be concerned with upgrading the bottom end.
^ You misread my post, reread it again.
I said:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-POST-***** »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Realize that cams alone, aren't going to do that much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i.e. Throw them in, with no other supporting modifcations.
If you go read my "Build" thread, you'd see I'm doing a basic 200-215whp mild all motor build. So I understand what kind of results cams/head work, on a mild bottom end can provide.
I said:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-POST-***** »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Realize that cams alone, aren't going to do that much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i.e. Throw them in, with no other supporting modifcations.
If you go read my "Build" thread, you'd see I'm doing a basic 200-215whp mild all motor build. So I understand what kind of results cams/head work, on a mild bottom end can provide.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ You misread my post, reread it again.
I said:
i.e. Throw them in, with no other supporting modifcations.
If you go read my "Build" thread, you'd see I'm doing a basic 200-215whp mild all motor build. So I understand what kind of results cams/head work, on a mild bottom end can provide.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, read the build thread; annnnnnnnnnd it looks like your still learning.
im not saying "take it from me im an experianced builder", but from the looks of things in your threads i have a bit more tenure in this category.
I said:
i.e. Throw them in, with no other supporting modifcations.
If you go read my "Build" thread, you'd see I'm doing a basic 200-215whp mild all motor build. So I understand what kind of results cams/head work, on a mild bottom end can provide.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, read the build thread; annnnnnnnnnd it looks like your still learning.
im not saying "take it from me im an experianced builder", but from the looks of things in your threads i have a bit more tenure in this category.
May be true, no arguement, but you're still not hearing me.
I said, "Cams alone, aren't going to do that much."
Alone... As in, throw them in, with no supporting modifications. I know a guy in town, who had TODA Bs/TODA valvetrain on his Type-R, on stock bottom end, and he had trouble getting 190whp with tuning.
If he had a bit higher CR, with some porting, and a bit better intake/exhaust flow, he'd have broken over 200whp easily.
That's my point.
I said, "Cams alone, aren't going to do that much."
Alone... As in, throw them in, with no supporting modifications. I know a guy in town, who had TODA Bs/TODA valvetrain on his Type-R, on stock bottom end, and he had trouble getting 190whp with tuning.
If he had a bit higher CR, with some porting, and a bit better intake/exhaust flow, he'd have broken over 200whp easily.
That's my point.


