ok i am about to install some arp head studs the ghetto way(by takeing one out and replaceing it with an arp and tightening the arp, basically takeing the valve cover off and doing it from there) anyways here are my questions
1. should i use lock tite or some sort of stud securer if i am going to take the head off again?
2. if i do use lock tite or something similar, will i be able to get the studs out when i build my motor?

thanks in advanced, Eric.

 

Take the head off , buy a new headgasket install it the right way.

Do it now before you have to do it again later lol

 

I vote the right way.

When I installed my headstuds the threads were actually pretty dirty even though with visual inspection they looked pretty clean. when i hand threaded the studs onto the block by hand they were hard to thread. I bought a tap as per the instructions and cleaned ot the threads well with it. Then I blew out all the dirt with compressed air and the studs sat all the way down in the block no problem.

The instructions from ARP say to do this because if not you will get flase torque readings. That along with using their lube on the top threads when you tourque to ARP Specs.

 

i would do it the right way if i have more time, but i dont and it should be fine as long as i take one out and tighten one in and take one out and tighten one in according to the helm's manual(like which ones to tighten first and what not). but i am going to do it either or way because i am gay like that.

anyways should i use the lock tite or no because i wont be able to get the studs back out when i need to?

 

No locklite. Just hand tighten in down with an allen wrench. But I have to agree with the others and do it the right way. Good luck on it though.

 

Well if you want to do it the wrong way go ahead and use the strongest locktite available so they never come out of the block ever

 

from my searching it is saying to wipe them down with motor oil? like not soak them but, get a little bit of oil on them and then wipe it off, is this correct, I have also read that locktite doesnt do ****? anyways thank you for any help but now the lazyness begins.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OLD_HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I installed my headstuds the threads were actually pretty dirty even though with visual inspection they looked pretty clean. when i hand threaded the studs onto the block by hand they were hard to thread. I bought a tap as per the instructions and cleaned ot the threads well with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tap the holes, there is so much crap down there. I broke off an allen wrench in the top of a stud because I didn't tap first. I won't make that mistake again.
You will likely have trouble getting the studs all the way in without tapping.
Oiling everything up is to get everything evenly and smoothly torqued down.
I would not use locktite for this.

 

arp instructions say no motor oil cause it gives false torque readings or someting like that.


The part of the stud that goes in the block goes in dry. Gotta make sure theres no oil, dirt, water etc in the block hgoles so the sud sits properly against the block and doesnt loosen by itself down the road.

as per arps site:

5. Why are my “new” head studs leaking water and how do I stop the leak?

Prior to installing your “new” head studs, it is very important that you have clean surfaces to start. First, clean all the threads in the block with a thread chaser; make sure that you go all the way to the end of threads in the hole. This will also ensure that you get full thread engagement of the stud in the block. Next, clean the threads with brake or carb clean to remove any thread sealer, lube or antifreeze that may be on the threads. Then, clean the threads on the fastener. Use a liberal amount of ARP Thread Sealer, hi temp silicone or loc-tite on the threads to ensure that there will be no air pockets which can cause leaks. Then follow the instructions for installing the fasteners

7. Can you use loc-tite or any thread locker instead of ARP Assembly Lube?

You may use loc-tite or any thread locker instead of ARP Assembly Lube. Always ensure threads are clean prior to applying any lube product. When using loc-tite, make sure you assemble the parts before the loc-tite cures. You can use loc-tite instead of ARP Assembly Lube, but do not use them together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OLD_HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arp instructions say no motor oil cause it gives false torque readings or someting like that.


The part of the stud that goes in the block goes in dry. Gotta make sure theres no oil, dirt, water etc in the block hgoles so the sud sits properly against the block and doesnt loosen by itself down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>


The threads going into the block require oil NOT DRY! Use ARP MOLY LUBE on the top threads, nuts and washers

 

Probably right its been a while since I read the instrctions that came with mine. Im pretty sure I read something about not using motor oil and that it would give false torque readings. It could be just a ploy to get you to buy their moly assy lube though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OLD_HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Probably right its been a while since I read the instrctions that came with mine. Im pretty sure I read something about not using motor oil and that it would give false torque readings. It could be just a ploy to get you to buy their moly assy lube though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use the Moy lube om the upper threads, nuts and washers, it gives a TRUER TORQUE reading than oil . The studs come with more than enough Moly Lube so....

 

alright thanks again guys, lol i cant even do it the half *** way i was takeing the first one out and put the stud in and getting the first nut on and i guess its 12pt 12mm and you need it to be a deep well? i have one on the way though.

 

Its a 12-point 13mm might even be a 1/2 inch. But ive had no problem with a 13mm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLSVtecTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a 12-point 13mm might even be a 1/2 inch. But ive had no problem with a 13mm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

On B series I know it is a 12 point 13mm or 1/2inch can be used

 

12pt 1/2" I clean the threads (thread chaser), clean with brake cleaner, spray out, put a touch of moly lube on the threads...finger tighten. Lube the washers and the nuts before fastening on. I always torque in stepped sequences... IE 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 65 ft lbs. (or whatever the torque is)

 

ok all installed it (atleast for my y7) was 12 point 12mm...... oh well. and i oiled the botom lubed the top with the moly stuff, installed one at a time according to the helms manual(like the pattern of installation). i hand tightened them with an allen wrench(stud) and took it out a little bit then tightened it again. then i would put the washer and nut on and tq it to 40ft lbs at first and then 60ft lbs and when i was completely done i checked 2x to make sure all of them were at 60ft lbs(that is what the directions, arp directions that is, told me to tighten them down to) and i let her run for like 15min and then took her for a drive and gave her boost at around 4k rpms......nothing has happened yet(fingers crossed). but they are all equally at 60ft lbs and nothing is leaking or anything so, idk if i should expect something to happen now or a month from now. thanks for the advice though guys.........ha what if i get away with this, people are going to be like "wtf how come he didnt do anything but take the valve cover off and i had to take the whole head off".

 

dont worry bout peps giving u props for not taking the head off,because if u have a turbo + old head gasket the arp studs wont stop it from blowin ,but good luck anyway

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


The threads going into the block require oil NOT DRY! Use ARP MOLY LUBE on the top threads, nuts and washers </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is exactly how i put my arps in this morning. plus oil on the bottom threads can help clean them out (the threads on the stud not the block)

 

ok got my damn map sensor today and have the boost controller and was going to go get tuned. talked to my tuner(like hours drive away) and he asked me if i had retightened them since i have beaten on it, i said no, so now i am going to wait till next sat and retighten them in the morning when the car is stone cold, then i will go get tune with 14ish psi shooting for 220whp. i cant wait.

 

you suck at cars

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you suck at cars</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok...... you want a cookie?