well i changed the head gasket because i had to take off the head to get one of the spark plug holes retapped cause one of the spark plugs broke and got stuck inside.

i tighten all the bolts cris crossed starting from the middle all down to 78lbs. is this correct?

the compression test came out good all around 200 so i dont see how its leaking. im thinking it mite be coming from the intake manifold but i also replaced that with a new gasket too.

the smoke is diffrently white you can see clouds of it coming out from the exhaust and you can also see the coolant coming out from the exhaust tip.

it doesnt over heat for some reason and i didnt use any of that seafoam or additives to clean it out.

i really dont wanna take my head back off to find this problem. im really hoping its coming from the intake manifold.



Modified by 2oh6civic at 8:47 AM 9/14/2007

 

its probably just burning coolant that got in the cylinders while you took the head off. how long have you drove it since you put the head back on?

 

actually i had to take back off the head because when i took the valve cover off there was so much water/antifreeze in there i believe its a bigger problem now. does anybody know if this is a warpped head problem?

 

nobody seems to like checking mating surface flatnesses when changing hg's anymore...

 

Nah. A warped head wouldn't give you compression readings like that. I think you might have a coolant line where a vacuum line is supposed to be, or the gasket isn't oriented correctly.

 

Well When the head Gasket was Bad, did the Engine over heat?, thats really the only thing that would cause the head to warp..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 200kCivicSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nah. A warped head wouldn't give you compression readings like that. I think you might have a coolant line where a vacuum line is supposed to be, or the gasket isn't oriented correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i triple check the lines and all of them are in the right order plus i really didnt take any of them off except the ones that go on the head.

can you put gasket maker on the IM gasket?

here are some pics of the IM gasket and IM it looks like this could be the problem but im not sure can somebody confirm this for me?

 

Gasket maker on machined surfaces that only require a gasket will give you trouble, cause it messes with the contact surfaces of the parts. I dont think gasket stuff on a manifold would let oil into the crankcase. It would give you misfires and ****, but not let oil in. Now gasket maker on a head gasket is a no-no. That would let oil and anti freeze mix for sure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 200kCivicSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gasket maker on machined surfaces that only require a gasket will give you trouble, cause it messes with the contact surfaces of the parts. I dont think gasket stuff on a manifold would let oil into the crankcase. It would give you misfires and ****, but not let oil in. Now gasket maker on a head gasket is a no-no. That would let oil and anti freeze mix for sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so what do you think it is? a bad head gasket, IM gasket, not torque down enough?

 

My guess is a blown head gasket, since you said you hooked up the lines properly. It might even be the wrong type.

 

its a brand new gasket tho. i used a straight edge and check the head and block and they were both straight. do you know how many pounds to torque a f22a6 head down?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2oh6civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tighten all the bolts cris crossed starting from the middle all down to 78lbs. is this correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For my '98 F23, the spec was something like this:
1 - Torque to 40 lbf*ft. (not sure of the exact number right now)
2 - Then tighten an additional 180 degrees.

I did step 2 with a breaker bar, and it sure felt like substantially more than 78 lbf*ft. I would guess that Honda has used a similar technique for years. NOT a single-step tightning.

 

78 lbf*ft seems high for a torque spec on a honda motor. You could be crushing it.

A B-series torque spec is 63 lbs*ft on OEM head gasket. You might want to double check the torque spec and torque sequence on that year model vehicle.

 

what motor is this for?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by methos713 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what motor is this for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2oh6civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you know how many pounds to torque a f22a6 head down?</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I did step 2 with a breaker bar, and it sure felt like substantially more than 78 lbf*ft. I would guess that Honda has used a similar technique for years. NOT a single-step tightning.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i didnt just use a single step tightning. first i tighten it down to 51 lbs. then i went over it again to 78 lbs. but when i took it off again it was easier to take off then when i first took it off so im thinking 78 lbs. isnt enough.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rogue3221 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">78 lbf*ft seems high for a torque spec on a honda motor. You could be crushing it.

A B-series torque spec is 63 lbs*ft on OEM head gasket. You might want to double check the torque spec and torque sequence on that year model vehicle.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i check it 3 times. i even went down to the local auto parts store and look at the chilton manual.

i dont see how i can get good compression and there be all this antifreeze/water going into the combustion camber?!?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2oh6civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt just use a single step tightning. first i tighten it down to 51 lbs. then i went over it again to 78 lbs. but when i took it off again it was easier to take off then when i first took it off so im thinking 78 lbs. isnt enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's good that you actually looked it up & followed it. I was just surprised that the final step was a torque and not a fixed angle.

 

You're completely sure all the lines are in the right spot?

 

maybe u overtightend and stretched the bolts. the head bolts on a d series isnt but almost 50 i think. the flywheel bolts arent but a little over 80. hell even arp headstuds are a little over 80 also. i would get new bolts. also did u put the gasket on upside down?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 200kCivicSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're completely sure all the lines are in the right spot?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im pritty sure all the lines are in the right spot i only have to take off the one hose from the radiator and one to the heater or whatever it is on th fire wall.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe u overtightend and stretched the bolts. the head bolts on a d series isnt but almost 50 i think. the flywheel bolts arent but a little over 80. hell even arp headstuds are a little over 80 also. i would get new bolts. also did u put the gasket on upside down?</TD></TR></TABLE>

naw the chilton manual said 78 ft lbs. so i dont think i over tighten it. the head gasket is rightside up because i put it up on the side it said "up" lol..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 200kCivicSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gasket maker on machined surfaces that only require a gasket will give you trouble, cause it messes with the contact surfaces of the parts. I dont think gasket stuff on a manifold would let oil into the crankcase. It would give you misfires and ****, but not let oil in. Now gasket maker on a head gasket is a no-no. That would let oil and anti freeze mix for sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Copper spray is ok to use though.

 

That i don't know. I personally won't use gasket stuff unless it specifically states to use it.

 

ok i just got the head resurfaced and bought another brand new head gasket and it still smoking but not as bad and now its leaking oil from the gasket near the header. what is wrong with it? i did everything right. is it the block?!?


Modified by 2oh6civic at 8:38 AM 9/18/2007

 

You know it takes about a day or two to fully burn off all of the coolant

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know it takes about a day or two to fully burn off all of the coolant</TD></TR></TABLE>

but is it suppose to leak oil? ill post a pic of it when i charge my battery

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 200kCivicSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That i don't know. I personally won't use gasket stuff unless it specifically states to use it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

After talking to one of the best builders around "Earl" , he said they use it just for that extra precaution, that was good enough for me