I figured 85k miles would be sufficient for doing a timing belt replacement considering the car is ten years old. So after breaking 5 3/8" extensions and one Craftsman ratchet getting the crank pulley bolt loose, I'm halfway.

Besides making sure the pulleys are aligned, are there any other helpful hints that anyone would like to share from experience? I'll be doing the waterpump too, and was wondering if I should Hondabond the new one to the block or is the gasket that comes with it enough?

Any tips on the retensioning? The manual specifies to go forward (counterclockwise) 4-5 rotations and back 3 teeth for proper tension. Is that usually the most reliable way to insure proper tension?

BTW, a good 20" 1/2" extension with a 4' breaker bar works great to get that pita crank bolt loose if you are doing all the work in your driveway without the aid of a lift.

thanks,
Matt


Modified by Utilitarian at 8:39 PM 9/12/2007

 

just make sure you use torque specs and you start off TDC

 

What? No pictures?? BAN

 

You have to excuse Doespike. He nuts on 97's.

 

Make sure everything is at TDC. I don't see why not using Hondabond would be detrimental to the installation of the water pump. I would simply pay attention to how much you put on the flange of the water pump, so that excess is not squeezed into the orifices and cavities of the water pump when you torque the bolts to spec.

I could never get the timing belt to the proper tension using the HELMs instructions so I've always used the coat hanger method and a buddy to get it done. It's just as effective and much faster. Not only is it faster, but ALL the elements of the engine remain at TDC while you tighten it, where as the HELMs requires that you turn the crank to tension the belt.

I want to see pictures of your 97' as well.

 

after u get the belt on, to tension it you have to rotate the motor 4-5 times counter clockwise and then set it back to TDC, then loosen the tensioner and rotate it counter clockwise 3 theeth on the cam gears then torque the tensioner down. and your done!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeDonDeRosa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after u get the belt on, to tension it you have to rotate the motor 4-5 times counter clockwise and then set it back to TDC, then loosen the tensioner and rotate it counter clockwise 3 theeth on the cam gears then torque the tensioner down. and your done!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I've archived and saw info on the 'coathanger' method but still don't know what that entails. I'll probably run with the Helms method.

Here's a couple shots because I never mind whorin' her out:







Wish me luck; my goal is to be on the road by 3:00 today.

 

Car looks GOOD!!

 

Best of luck. I remember the first time I did my timing belt...two long long days. That was many years ago now

 

Lookin good Matt....

Coat hanger method is pretty simple, you just pull up w/ the hanger on the tensioner to get the belt tight....

I would only worry about that method if you had aftermarket cams in her....


P.S. Any bites with her being For Sale?

 

Im not familiar with the coathanger method.

Since some of you have brought it up, does anyone have a link so i can see more details of this method please? or does anyone care to explain more details?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLITZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not familiar with the coathanger method.

Since some of you have brought it up, does anyone have a link so i can see more details of this method please? or does anyone care to explain more details?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Basically, you yank upwards on the tensioner before tightening it. The best way is to hook the end of the hanger through the hole on the tensioner that the bottom of the spring goes through. Once it's snug, you just tighten the bolt on the tensioner down.

This actually worked great for me after struggling with the belt skipping teeth while rotating the crank to supposedly get the slack out. When the belt skips teeth, you basically have to start over in terms of making sure the pulleys are aligned.

13 hours of work later I'm done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmdr430 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lookin good Matt....

Coat hanger method is pretty simple, you just pull up w/ the hanger on the tensioner to get the belt tight....

I would only worry about that method if you had aftermarket cams in her....


P.S. Any bites with her being For Sale?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah, no bites, but I haven't really been trying to sell it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
13 hours of work later I'm done. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good job tackling this one. Next one should be much quicker.

 

Daaammmnnn that engine bay is cleaner than CLEAN YO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wegotmorrison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Daaammmnnn that engine bay is cleaner than CLEAN YO</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks man! My philosophy is if you clean if before it gets dirty, it stays clean. Pretty simple, huh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks man! My philosophy is if you clean if before it gets dirty, it stays clean. Pretty simple, huh? </TD></TR></TABLE>

For sure. I wish the previous owner of my car lived by that.