My car was finally tuned for 9psi (without electronic boost controller) a few days ago. Everything runs perfectly as my engine was sleeved/built properly. However, I'm encountering some overheating when not going over 80kph. The guys who tuned the car and put together most of my turbo system suggested that I get a lower temperature thermostat (as my slim fan doesn't start till about 91 degrees), and to put a block off plate next to the half-rad so the air goes through the rad, rather than next to it (air chooses the path of least resistance).

Now, the question is, where do I find said thermostat? Is there an OEM part I should be looking for that would make the cooling system more efficient? Or should I go with an aftermarket part that's made for H22A4?

I've already planned on getting the manifold/turbo hot-side/downpipe cermakromed and having the DP wrapped in heat-wrap on top. But is there anything else that would help keep the temperatures down?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Im also running half size radiator in my lude. Honestly I think they are too small.
I have ran into some overheating issues also. So Im pulling my radiator out and going with a full size all aluminum radiator. My car is Boosted also at 15 psi. Fully built internals.

 

Only time i ever overheated with my half sized radaiators was on 100 degree plus days, or in miles of stop and go traffic. Try adding some water wetter to your cooling system. Also make sure that your cooling system is building pressure. if you have a "leak" in your cooling system, then it will not allow it to build any pressure causing it boil and over heat.

 

mugen radiator fan switch and thermostat. The mugen fan switch turns on at 80c instead of 91c, and the thermostat opens up completely at 81c instead at 90c
https://www.kingmotorsports.co...at=68

 

Alright, I just ordered the Mugen fan switch and the thermostat. This should help alot along with the cooling plate I'm going to fab up tonight.

Thanks for the help fellas!

 

have you done the fan/thermostat replacement? I'll be boosting over the 18-20psi mark, so hopefully this will be enough and I won't need to go with a full sized radiator (I simply have no room for it)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LukieLuc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mugen radiator fan switch and thermostat. The mugen fan switch turns on at 80c instead of 91c, and the thermostat opens up completely at 81c instead at 90c
https://www.kingmotorsports.co...at=68
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I run both on my RR Prelude with a C&R Full Size radiator and Ive done 45min sessions on 90*+ days.....never went past 1/2 on the temp gauge.
Start with the basics and go from there......

Water Wetter!

 

what engine management system do you use?

Just curious....i dont know if the effects would cause over heating, but you could be running lean and too much ignition at high ECT's which makes the EGT's really hot. This could be an effect from having a bad basemap where the IAT and ECT fuel and ignition compensations are not set accordingly. Just a wild guess tho. I dont know if the fueling and ignition can effect the coolant temperature enough to where the engine over heats....i'm doubting it but i cant completely rule it out.

put two drops of dish soap in your radiator.

 

which half rad are you using?

 

My turbo'd prelude has a koyo radiator and slim fan, and has NEVER overheated. not even during the summer. i run the fan all the time. not off switch.

 

had the same issue with the half rad. i did everything i could think of before taking that one out. water wetter, cooler thermo, fan switch, boxed in the rad so air only went through rad, pusher and puller fan. nothing helped, so went back to a full rad and all is good now.

 

theres just so many things that can contribute to an engine that cant handle a smaller radiator that its hard to just blame it on one thing. But i guess if you cant run one, you cant run one. They definitely have their advantages tho.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvteclude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">had the same issue with the half rad. i did everything i could think of before taking that one out. water wetter, cooler thermo, fan switch, boxed in the rad so air only went through rad, pusher and puller fan. nothing helped, so went back to a full rad and all is good now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you have a thick, koyo style one or a thin one like an OEM civic rad?

 

Yeah I also wonder which one it is, I use the oem Del Sol half-size on my JDM H22, non-boosted, but fully expect that I would need an aftermarket when I boost down the road. I can sit in 100 degree heat in traffic and be fine right now.

 

youll be surprised how much putting that plate next to the radiator in order to direct flow will help.

 

I just realized that the guys who filled up my radiator only put water in the rad. Could this be one of the reasons why I'm encountering over-heating?

Which coolant is best? I used to use prestone pre-mix stuff before I was boosted, should I keep using that or change to a 'better' type?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you have a thick, koyo style one or a thin one like an OEM civic rad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i had a mishimoto which was 2 1/2" thick.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres just so many things that can contribute to an engine that cant handle a smaller radiator that its hard to just blame it on one thing. But i guess if you cant run one, you cant run one. They definitely have their advantages tho.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i found it hard to believe the rad was the only thing at fualt too but i got tired or worrying and having to check the temp guage all the time so when it did over heat i could turn the heater on. then having to rack my brain to try and figure out how i could stop it from overheating. just got annoying.

[QUOTE=ImPuLsIvE]I just realized that the guys who filled up my radiator only put water in the rad. Could this be one of the reasons why I'm encountering over-heating? [QUOTE]

i found that water would keep the car at a lower temp a little longer but once it got to operating temp it would never go back down and would cause it to over heat alot more even with water wetter. plus antifreeze is a lubricant for the water pump.

 

Fluidyne Prelude radiator, 100% water with 1 bottle of water wetter (due to rules), no fans, stock thermostat, with an NA engine that makes around 204WHP. This past August we did an event at TWS where the ambient temp got up to a little over 100F. The water temp never got above 190 according to my gauges, even with 20 to 25 minute sessions.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run both on my RR Prelude with a C&R Full Size radiator and Ive done 45min sessions on 90*+ days.....never went past 1/2 on the temp gauge.
Start with the basics and go from there......

Water Wetter! </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

You don't run a fan Billy?