Thanks, got my answer.


Modified by kaluwa3 at 12:29 PM 10/4/2007

 

first for the shifting problem, get a short shifter. that will help. also get the energy suspension bushings for your short shifter.

for the second question, it wont tell you if you need to replace any seals, or if any fuel/emmissions **** is fucked up.

A compression test will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.

As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. Of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.

Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.

 

Anyone else?

So when I get a compression test it should be within 140-160, and all cylinders should be withing 10 of each other (give or take), correct?

Is it better to be closer to 140 or higher at 160?

 

160psi seems a bit low for a b16. id think it should be doing at least 200psi consistently across all four.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaluwa3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay well I have a 2000 civic si with around 90k miles. I was getting onto an onramp and I figured why not do a quick pull through the gears.. Well I redline 1,2,3,4 then go to shift into 5th and I missed 5th gear. I stepped on the gas thinking I was in 5th, but I was really in nuetral. I hit the revlimiter for a good 2 seconds at least. I was just wondering if this could do any damage? It's a stock b16 and I noticed that it wasnt really boucing but it looked like the needle was just stopped at 8300-8400. What damage can this do if any?

Now that this happened, I noticed that I miss 5th quite often when shifting fast. It is hard to get the shifter over to the right for some reason. You know how when going into 3rd from 2nd you just go straight up and to the right a bit? Well for 5th I litterally have to push it up outta 4th, and then over to the right, then up. Is this normal? Why is my 5th so far away?

And lastly, I figured I would combine 2 questions into one thread instead of making a new one. I might be getting another car. It's an EK with a b16 swap. I just want to make sure the motor is good before I buy the car.. I know a compression test will tell you if the motor is good or bad. But do good results on a compression test mean that the motor is perfect all around, or are there other things that can be wrong, that the compression test won't pick up?

What are perfect/good compression numbers for a I/H/E b16a2?


Thanks, and please no smart remarks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The 5th/reverse shift fork is further over than than the jump from 1/2 to 3/4.

It's common for people that are new to driving standard transmissions (ie. you).

Don't worry about it, just try to keep in mind to push it right when shifting to 5th, this is VERY FAR from the first time I've heard a complaint about this due to inexperience (and no, I'm not dissing you).

No, you didn't damage anything by hitting the rev limiter.

Honda tachometers are horribly off and get more and more inaccurate the closer you get to the redline.

Usually at about ~600 RPM high by 5k. Check it against an OBD scanner some time, you'll be surprised as ****. I can put my '97 EX to 5400-5500 RPM on the tach before the ECU is reading 4800. So when my fuel gauge failed, I just bought a CX cluster instead of being bothered with a tach that's that inaccurate and spending more $.

In any event, the rev limiter is designed to keep from revving to a point where you damage your engine. Now of course you can damage your engine from hitting it, but it's more than likely that it's gonna blow if you HOLD IT to the rev limiter.

If you just tapped it for 2 seconds don't worry about it, no big deal at all.

If you're redlining 4th that means you're going ~120mph, and since your B16 in an EM1 won't make a 5th gear shift in the 1/4, that means you're most likely doing it on the street as an AutoX usually doesn't have speeds of 120mph.

You shouldn't be going 120mph on the street.

 

Thanks for the reply, Syndacate. Some very good info.

As for the tach being off.. I have a CTR EK cluster in it (if it makes a difference) and it seems fairly accurate. I can hear vtec engage at exactly 5500 Rpms, which means it's accurate at 5500. As for it being off in the upper rpms, you may be right.

And would you agree with compression numbers being around 140-160 or more like 200 like ^^ said?

Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaluwa3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the reply, Syndacate. Some very good info.

As for the tach being off.. I have a CTR EK cluster in it (if it makes a difference) and it seems fairly accurate. I can hear vtec engage at exactly 5500 Rpms, which means it's accurate at 5500. As for it being off in the upper rpms, you may be right.

And would you agree with compression numbers being around 140-160 or more like 200 like ^^ said?

Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

More like 200 , though I don't know much about B16's. Though 140-160 seems pretty damn low.