ok i dont want to sound like a whining baby cause i tried everything but the damn car will not start

ok heres what happened
i was driving back from the track and went to leave a stop sign and my car died
did a comp test and sure enough come to find out the head gasket is toast so replace the gasket and starts up and nuthing is wrong

i drive the car like a old lady for bout 20 min and then all of a sudden i loose all power and i hear this popping sound coming form my exhaust and i pull over and this lady comes up to me and is all hysterical and is shouting at me "YOU JUST SHOT A 5 FOOT FIRE BALL OUT YOUR REAR END" and i was like really cool lol


but so any ways ive checked timing like 5 times and the cam keeps jumping
but i adjusted the tensioner and its fine but it looks like the crank is spinging faster than the cam and alls i get is pop pop pop and no starty starty


so any help would be great

 

did u check the cam gear bolt to make sure that isnt loose. that has happen to me

 

yeah its tight cause i generally use that to turn the cam to set the timing

 

it still sounds like the tensioner to me but i would have to see the motor to help on this one...any way of posting a video??? also i would replace the belt , you could have worn the teeth down....

 

i will take some pics today and post them later

what bout the distributor
would this cause the poping problem ?????

 

the cam moves at half the speed of the crank. so that is normal. if the cam was skipping teeth on the belt then u need to do another comp test, as most likely u have some bent valves

 

so, what motor are we talking about anyways? I picked up "the cam" so I'm assuming SOHC?

 

Indeed, i would be worried if my cam was spinning the same speed as my crank; i thought i read that your belt keeps jumping teeth- if that's correct, you need to replace the belt and tensioner and go from there. when you tension the belt, set the timing , install it, tighten your tensioner down, then rotate the engine backards a few degrees until all the inherent slack is on the tensioner side- then loosen the tensioner, take up the new slack, and try again. honda's can be funny like that.

 

i took up the slack and cleaned the oil from the sprocket and now its moving in sync but keeps poping on me

and yes its a d15b block with a a6 head but still dual point

i got some pictures and will host them later when i find my cord lol

thanks guys

 

ok so i got it started the little screw that holds the rotor down came out of the rotor shaft in the dizzy

but my new problem is it sounds like im on 3 cylinders and my throttle response is shitty

do you think its my main relay ?????

its the only thing i havent checked yet

please any feedback is help ful

 

main relay wont be causing you to missfire.

possibly a burnt valve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbozcteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so i got it started the little screw that holds the rotor down came out of the rotor shaft in the dizzy

but my new problem is it sounds like im on 3 cylinders and my throttle response is shitty

do you think its my main relay ?????

its the only thing i havent checked yet

please any feedback is help ful
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do a leakdown test and see if you have a dead cylinder.

If not your timing may still be off, triple check that again.

 

leak down test showed no big worries all was with in 5% of the other ones

but now my fuel pump seems like its strugling to work and its not firing at all
it seems to be one after a nother with this thing

i think im just gonna fix it

 

you might have damaged the inside of the cap or the rotor when it was spinning loose in there, get a new cap and rotor.

 

rotor screw.


ive heard its a common problem. and about 3 weeks ago, i had a friend call me saying that his car wouldnt start. it took me 2 seconds of listening it to it crank, and another 5 minutes removing the distributer cap, tightening the screw back on, and the thing fired up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rotor screw.


ive heard its a common problem. and about 3 weeks ago, i had a friend call me saying that his car wouldnt start. it took me 2 seconds of listening it to it crank, and another 5 minutes removing the distributer cap, tightening the screw back on, and the thing fired up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rotor screw.


ive heard its a common problem. and about 3 weeks ago, i had a friend call me saying that his car wouldnt start. it took me 2 seconds of listening it to it crank, and another 5 minutes removing the distributer cap, tightening the screw back on, and the thing fired up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here. Friend said his engine took a crap on him while doing a pull. He towed it home, i went over and checked it out. Sure enough, it was the rotor screw.


OP you might want to try and put a little bit of lock-tight on it to make sure it doesn't back out again.

 

ok well heres the list of things ive found out wrong nad fixed
found loose rotor screw tightned it bak on with thread locker,
cloged injectors' soaked them in seafoam for 1 hr and now there all pretty and shinny lol (i sound like a redneck)

got everything back in order and theres turning over
but no starting
so i pulled the main relay off and looked at it and its burnt to **** lol

like one of the parts of the circuit board is almost burnt threw lol

so im gonna go to a local junk yard and grab a few
and then it should be running