ecu problem??
ok so i have a jdm b16 p30....my friend at work said he has a chipped p28 and it will make my car run better cuz i have a few boltons and it will make my vtec kick in aroudn 5 instead of 6k.. so i tried it out and drove fine...i switched my p30 back in because i didnt have the amount he was asking for..after i put the p30 back in...my idle went lowwwwwwwwwww and my shifts were bad from the rpm dropping so quickly...i checked the code i got..code 14 iac..i searched but nothing related to this..thanks honda-tech!
also unplugged the negative from the battery for an hour
Modified by v8 integra at 7:19 PM 9/9/2007
also unplugged the negative from the battery for an hour
Modified by v8 integra at 7:19 PM 9/9/2007
i had the same problem as u did. i have a jdm b16a swap with jdm p30 ecu and the car was running not very well..so i bought a chipped p28 ecu tuned to the spec and mod according to my car and it runs very smotth now. whats the price your friend is asking about his chipped p28 ecu? and trust me.jdm b16a swap will run smoother with chipped p28 ecu
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem as u did. i have a jdm b16a swap with jdm p30 ecu and the car was running not very well..so i bought a chipped p28 ecu tuned to the spec and mod according to my car and it runs very smotth now. whats the price your friend is asking about his chipped p28 ecu? and trust me.jdm b16a swap will run smoother with chipped p28 ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>
a chip is only as good as what's programmed into it. A chipped ECU is only as good as the tune, and untuned chip is worth as much as a potato chip.
the P30 will run the B16 the way it was supposed to be run. As per honda. Anything deviating from there requires proper tuning.
OP: more than likely the chipped P28 (shouldn't be more than $125-150) had everything disabled so it didn't set a CEL, and ran open loop. Which will run the engine directly off the maps, which tend to be set richer for "more power". which can damage or foul sensors. (tends to reduce the life of the O2 and cat)
try unplugging and replugging in the ECU a few times (dirty connections)
try cleaning the IAT (I've never had any luck doing so but its worth a shot)
try a new IAT or a friends IAT.
a chip is only as good as what's programmed into it. A chipped ECU is only as good as the tune, and untuned chip is worth as much as a potato chip.
the P30 will run the B16 the way it was supposed to be run. As per honda. Anything deviating from there requires proper tuning.
OP: more than likely the chipped P28 (shouldn't be more than $125-150) had everything disabled so it didn't set a CEL, and ran open loop. Which will run the engine directly off the maps, which tend to be set richer for "more power". which can damage or foul sensors. (tends to reduce the life of the O2 and cat)
try unplugging and replugging in the ECU a few times (dirty connections)
try cleaning the IAT (I've never had any luck doing so but its worth a shot)
try a new IAT or a friends IAT.
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Ok so i cleaned out the iacv and it wasn't that dirty at all..i still have a crappy idle that bounces up and down...and i have cel14 which is iac...i cant find any vacume leaks..im going insane..i cant figure this out..anyone with any other suggestions??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v8 integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also will air in my radiator(if i have any air in there) cause a idle problem to set off the iac cel 14???or is the cel 14 strictly just for the iac</TD></TR></TABLE>
CEL14 is strictly for the IACV. you either have a wiring problem or faulty AICV.
either way it will cause bad idle for sure.
CEL14 is strictly for the IACV. you either have a wiring problem or faulty AICV.
either way it will cause bad idle for sure.
you can test the IACV, put 12V accross the two pins, this will pull the plunger to the side all the way.
when mine was bad, I looked into the holes and connected 12V and the plunger moved a little then sort of tilted sideways, and didn't open all the way.
as long as you don't hold the power on the AICV for more than several seconds it will be fine. (10 seconds would be fine and is more than enough to tell what's going on in there)
when mine was bad, I looked into the holes and connected 12V and the plunger moved a little then sort of tilted sideways, and didn't open all the way.
as long as you don't hold the power on the AICV for more than several seconds it will be fine. (10 seconds would be fine and is more than enough to tell what's going on in there)
ok sooo i i tested the iacv..it was clicking...i even put a different iacv from a different civic into my car..and it seemed to bolt right on..i tighten the fitv screw..cleaned everything..i put my finger in the top hole of the throttle body and my idle seems perfect...im still so0o0 stumped
Morning V8 ....
HAD the same problem like yours...
Did everything you did.
Finally borrowed a friend's ecu to pluck in...
Engine check light and idling became normal.
Have you tried another ECU?....
I'm trying to find the faulty component in the ecu... Anyone can help?
HAD the same problem like yours...
Did everything you did.
Finally borrowed a friend's ecu to pluck in...
Engine check light and idling became normal.
Have you tried another ECU?....
I'm trying to find the faulty component in the ecu... Anyone can help?
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