Well, I just put the b16 I built for boost into my '96 EX coupe, and I'm having a few problems and need suggestions from you more experienced guys.

first off, when I crank the car up it idles fine until I give it gas, throttle response is horrible, but it sounds really strong in high RPMs, then it idles really bad after any throttle and wants to stall out.. I'm running an S2000 throttle body with stock sensors, and I think it may be the TPS.. I've tried almost every angle and it still does the same thing. sometimes it idles around 500 rpm or less after i give it any throttle. Any Ideas?

here's more info on my setup:
1996 civic ex coupe
P28 ecu
B16a3 block w/ 9:1 forged pistons and Hbeam rods
B16a1 head w/ valve springs & retainers
OBD1 dizzy w/ a OBD2a plug wired up
all timing is set properly
the only CEL is from a knock sensor not being hooked up

Also I installed 2 brand new cam shaft oil seals when I did the head, but i'm getting a bit of oil coming out under the exhaust cam gear, both seals were installed exactly the same and torqed down..
what could be causing the oil leak?

 

You're running a B16 on a P28 ECU?

I didn't know P28's looked for knock sensors...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're running a B16 on a P28 ECU?

I didn't know P28's looked for knock sensors...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, P28 should run a b16 without bogging at throttle

 

oh crap, read my code wrong.. I'm getting a primary o2 sensor code.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, P28 should run a b16 without bogging at throttle </TD></TR></TABLE>

Alrighty then, lemme know how that works out for ya.

 

should the o2 sensor cause such bad throttle response issues?

 

You probably already fucked up your motor. Did you do a break in procedure? How did the oil look? Are you watching a wideband? In the end you need to take it to a motor. Stop reving it.

 

the engine is fine, i've only reved it once to 4k.. i havn't even drove it so there is no break in procedure yet..

 

Did you sit the rings before you reved to 4,000? And if 4,000 is all you went to how is it that it "sounds strong in high rpm?" 4k is low rpm.

 

the only problem i'm having is there is oil leaking at the exhaust cam gear, i have it all taken apart and it looks fine.. I was told to try putting RTV at that seal, does this sound right?

 

RTV or Hondabond on the seals will do fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the engine is fine, i've only reved it once to 4k.. i havn't even drove it so there is no break in procedure yet..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Once you start the car, the break-in procedure has begun, noob . Do you think that 1000rpm isn't seating your rings and moving the mechanical parts of your engine just like 2000 or 5000rpm? Just because there's no load and you're not redlining it doesn't mean it's not breaking in.

On that same note, I'm a proponent of a hard break-in. If you built the engine correctly, there's no need to go easy on it for a predetermined number of miles to let some magical **** happen. Go beat the **** out of it right out of the box and it'll be fine - assuming your car isn't throwing codes and washing the cylinder walls with too much fuel because you've got an oxygen sensor problem.

Get the car to a tuner ASAP. It seems like you're largely clueless.