Just cleaned IACV now it surges :( HELP!
Hey guys, i cleaned my iacv cuz i thought it'd fix my problem, well the problem now is nowhere near as bad as it was, now it surges all the time, i cleaned it the proper way too.
heres what happened,
i put everything back on, then i started the car ( it was cold ) so i let it warm up, well when it was fully warm the motor idled at 1100 when it use to idle at 700-800
then i gave it gas, same thing.
second, i turned the car off, started it up, gave it gas, now the car surges! please help... anyone.. im bout to cry
heres what happened,
i put everything back on, then i started the car ( it was cold ) so i let it warm up, well when it was fully warm the motor idled at 1100 when it use to idle at 700-800
then i gave it gas, same thing.
second, i turned the car off, started it up, gave it gas, now the car surges! please help... anyone.. im bout to cry
same thing happened to my crx with a b16 swap. i sold it though, so i dont know what made it still do that. intake mani leaking maybe? i know when i removed the mani on the stock engine before the swap it would do that. but i never got around to checking to see if it leaked. several people in the crx forum told me that was the prob.
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Did you bleed the coolant in the engine after replacing the IACV?
Air in the coolant passing around the temp sensor for the coolant can make the ECU cycle in & out warmup/fast idle.
Air in the coolant passing around the temp sensor for the coolant can make the ECU cycle in & out warmup/fast idle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlc92189 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i unplugged everything, anyone else?
if i cover the top hole in the throttle body the surge goes away, and it idles normal.. whats that mean</TD></TR></TABLE>
Vaccum leak?
if i cover the top hole in the throttle body the surge goes away, and it idles normal.. whats that mean</TD></TR></TABLE>
Vaccum leak?
bump for me taking it back off, gonna get some permatex or something to seal the oring, then try and bleed the coolant hopin it works!
anyone else possibly?
i can put my finger to clog the whole up inside the tb and the surge went away, what does that mean?
anyone else possibly?
i can put my finger to clog the whole up inside the tb and the surge went away, what does that mean?
there should be a bleeder screw on the upper radiator hose inlet to the motor. that or you can just let the car run with the radiator cap off until the air bleeds out.
thanks, but does anyone knoww hat this is? i remeber someone telling me about this on here about what the cause of this is<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlc92189 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
anyone else possibly?
i can put my finger to clog the whole up inside the tb and the surge went away, what does that mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>
anyone else possibly?
i can put my finger to clog the whole up inside the tb and the surge went away, what does that mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hes worked on hondas forever. mans a genius. but i think its the FITV being hte car is 98.. the motor is 95? or 94.. obd2-obd1 so i think the fitv is acting up, but im not gonna mess with it anymore, ill let him know about it.
Procedure for bleeding the coolant system for a 92-95 Civic:
-Make sure the engine is cold
-Heater control on full hot
-remove rad cap
-fill the rad up to the top
-loosen bleed bolt (it's on the front of the block near the distributor where the radiator hose meets the block)
-tighten bleed bolt when coolant comes out in a steady stream (no bubbles)
-Refill rad
-put rad cap on but only tighten to first stop
-start engine & let it warm up (rad fan turns on at least twice)
-Turn off engine & check level in radiator - fill to top if necessary - tighten rad cap all the way
-Fill coolant reservoir to max mark.
-Make sure the engine is cold
-Heater control on full hot
-remove rad cap
-fill the rad up to the top
-loosen bleed bolt (it's on the front of the block near the distributor where the radiator hose meets the block)
-tighten bleed bolt when coolant comes out in a steady stream (no bubbles)
-Refill rad
-put rad cap on but only tighten to first stop
-start engine & let it warm up (rad fan turns on at least twice)
-Turn off engine & check level in radiator - fill to top if necessary - tighten rad cap all the way
-Fill coolant reservoir to max mark.
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