white smoke from exhaust
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From: Downers Grove, Illinois, United States
as the topic states im getting white smoke from my exhaust. what i recently had done to my car was a completely new bottom end (h22a1). that engine is sleeved, forged pistons, new rings, new crank, all new stuff. also i had to get a custom made head gasket from chrometic. i had my charge pipe off my car due to wanting to break in the new motor so i was n/a for a short amount of time and it was running fine aka not smoking. they did say when they had my car that it had been smoking the day before but the next day it stopped, and it didn't do it at all when i got my car back. assuming the new piston rings were seeting at that time. im just kinda confused as to why it started smoking after i put my charge pipe on. any ideas or solutions would be much appreciated. other info that might be helpful would be that i have an h22a4 head, its running on a basemap to break in the motor, the compression is 180 all across, it has all new spark plugs in it, and i dont know of anything else i could tell you. if theres anything else that might be a factor say it and ill tell you if i know anything about it. thanks for the help in advance
*i also got a new timing belt put on, but am still running on stock cam gears which i need to and know that i need to get some aftermarket ones so i can get the timing tuned better. i am running it on a p28 on chrome.
*i also got a new timing belt put on, but am still running on stock cam gears which i need to and know that i need to get some aftermarket ones so i can get the timing tuned better. i am running it on a p28 on chrome.
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From: Downers Grove, Illinois, United States
ill have to ask my buddy i bought the block from. im just wondering why it wouldn't do this at all when i had it n/a for those miles.
all i can really tell you on this part is that they are darton sleeves.
all i can really tell you on this part is that they are darton sleeves.
did you not tune the motor for break-in?
and for future reference, it is CROME. not CHROME.
who is chrometic? and why did you have to get a custom headgasket?
and for future reference, it is CROME. not CHROME.
who is chrometic? and why did you have to get a custom headgasket?
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From: Downers Grove, Illinois, United States
yeah my bad i guess i need to learn my spelling of companies...
anyway my motor is tuned for the breakin believe me i have taken more then enough precautions on this part. and yeah like i said i need to learn my spelling of companies so its cometic that made the head gasket. i needed an over sized head gasket due to the piston rising slightly into the head.
anyway my motor is tuned for the breakin believe me i have taken more then enough precautions on this part. and yeah like i said i need to learn my spelling of companies so its cometic that made the head gasket. i needed an over sized head gasket due to the piston rising slightly into the head.
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From: Downers Grove, Illinois, United States
not very. like its noticeable but can still can be seen through. i was going to start it up in a minute and see if it continued to do it. the only time it would smoke would be if i boosted.
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From: Downers Grove, Illinois, United States
ill go find that out now and tell you.
the thickness of the head gasket right? its roughly 1/8 of an inch thick. wasn't thinkin there.
the thickness of the head gasket right? its roughly 1/8 of an inch thick. wasn't thinkin there.
wtf. Why did you need such a custom headgasket then?
are you using an h23 crank? can you give us a rundown of what is inside your engine?
are the pistons flat? what is the compression height?
are you using an h23 crank? can you give us a rundown of what is inside your engine?
are the pistons flat? what is the compression height?
Thread Starter
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From: Downers Grove, Illinois, United States
i am using an h23 crank brand new oem. the rest of the stuff i cant recall correctly right now. i bought the bottom end from NiR-Vtec. ima call him up and talk to him about the rest of the specs.
so for now it would probably be a good idea to take off the charge pipe again right?
so for now it would probably be a good idea to take off the charge pipe again right?
so these are off the shelf 9:1 pistons? if they are for an h22, the final compression is not going to be 9:1 when you are using a crank with 4.3mm more stroke. Its going to be higher.
My guess at your problem based on the current information:
too high compression for too thick of a headgasket + turbo. The cylinder pressure is distorting the headgasket and allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
My guess at your problem based on the current information:
too high compression for too thick of a headgasket + turbo. The cylinder pressure is distorting the headgasket and allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
For reference its NOT an H23 crank its an H22 crank....
Thicker head gasket was required because the block had been decked before(assume during/after the sleeving process.) They are Darton sleeves.
Off the shelf CP 9:1 slugs@87mm
Wouldn't one assume that if its only happening during boosting that it would be Turbo related?
Going to have to spend some time looking into this.....considering the amount of work that was just done.
Crome, random basemap, used turbo, questionable head......the list goes on.
Thicker head gasket was required because the block had been decked before(assume during/after the sleeving process.) They are Darton sleeves.
Off the shelf CP 9:1 slugs@87mm
Wouldn't one assume that if its only happening during boosting that it would be Turbo related?
Going to have to spend some time looking into this.....considering the amount of work that was just done.
Crome, random basemap, used turbo, questionable head......the list goes on.
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From: Downers Grove, Illinois, United States
just for the record it was a brand new turbo. i did not cheap out on any of ther parts besides using chrome. im going to be purchasing hondata s300 soon. so there is your specs on the rest of the block. im getting a leak down done on it on tuesday.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IIVIIoOkY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just for the record it was a brand new turbo. i did not cheap out on any of ther parts besides using chrome. im going to be purchasing hondata s300 soon. so there is your specs on the rest of the block. im getting a leak down done on it on tuesday.</TD></TR></TABLE>
See what happens with the leak down and take it from there.
Get the specs of the headgasket as well.
What did they do to the head when they assembled it? New guides/seals?
I also have to add that using the H22A4 dipstick and filling it based on that, meant overfilling it by 1 full quart......not good.---What happens when you run 1 quart over? Not really sure, but it can't be good for seals and gaskets. Too much oil pressure? Are you running a catch can too? I know installing a catch can on my setup got rid of my OIL CLOUD while RoadRacing........
Just brainstorming right now......I am very curious to what is going on.
Top is H22A1-P13 bottom is H22A4-P5M
You can cleary see if you use an H22A4-P5M dipstick in an H22A1, you will overfill by 1 quart.......



Modified by :=:NirVTEC:=: at 10:49 AM 9/2/2007
See what happens with the leak down and take it from there.
Get the specs of the headgasket as well.
What did they do to the head when they assembled it? New guides/seals?
I also have to add that using the H22A4 dipstick and filling it based on that, meant overfilling it by 1 full quart......not good.---What happens when you run 1 quart over? Not really sure, but it can't be good for seals and gaskets. Too much oil pressure? Are you running a catch can too? I know installing a catch can on my setup got rid of my OIL CLOUD while RoadRacing........
Just brainstorming right now......I am very curious to what is going on.
Top is H22A1-P13 bottom is H22A4-P5M
You can cleary see if you use an H22A4-P5M dipstick in an H22A1, you will overfill by 1 quart.......



Modified by :=:NirVTEC:=: at 10:49 AM 9/2/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IIVIIoOkY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just for the record it was a brand new turbo. i did not cheap out on any of ther parts besides using chrome. im going to be purchasing hondata s300 soon. so there is your specs on the rest of the block. im getting a leak down done on it on tuesday.</TD></TR></TABLE>
"TURBO'D! tuned off of chrome .", but you state in your post that you are on a basemap. Using basemaps aren't good, they are designed to limp the car around until its tuned. Please tell me you are not boosting on a basemap. If you aren't tuned and boosting... smoke could be directly a problem of the tune itself.
btw... Crome isn't cheaping out... if it was tuned.
Also, where is the oil return located? If too low... and looking like you might have a Qt extra of oil.. you might be turning your turbo into a PCV valve.
Just a few things to think about.
"TURBO'D! tuned off of chrome .", but you state in your post that you are on a basemap. Using basemaps aren't good, they are designed to limp the car around until its tuned. Please tell me you are not boosting on a basemap. If you aren't tuned and boosting... smoke could be directly a problem of the tune itself.
btw... Crome isn't cheaping out... if it was tuned.
Also, where is the oil return located? If too low... and looking like you might have a Qt extra of oil.. you might be turning your turbo into a PCV valve.
Just a few things to think about.
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From: Downers Grove, Illinois, United States
first off i corrected myself on my grammar and havn't changed my sig yet so please stop doing that.
it is a basemap used for breaking in the motor i cant exactly get a dyno tune on a brand new motor unless of course i wanted to pop it. so that answers one question. i asked mikey @ the shop (factory 5) if he had used the shorter dip stick and he said yes due to what clint was saying. so im positive off that.
this is all the things i had installed / replaced and what not:
OEM honda timing belt
Balancer belt
OEM water pump
Extreme act clutch
OEM cam seals
Housing Seal
Vtec oil ring
OEM honda oil pump
OEM honda main seal
custom cometic head gasket
Distributor king distributor
Golden Eagle cam seal
Re surface flywheel
*shop supplies
fluids and oil filter
valve cover studs (they dont say what they used but im assuming ARP per request)
valve cover nut
*R&R labor and re assembly
NGK spark Plugs
Vibrant O2 bung plug
im driving the car around now and its not smoking at all. i have no loss of coolant seeing as it is still filled at the max line. im using 440cc injectors and plan on upgrading when i figure this issue out. and i would never use an fmu im not dumb lol(thats why im using a chipped p28...).
also here is food for thought. since i dont have the charge pipe on the car at the moment wouldn't that be bad also for the turbo itself since its basically unrestricted spooling...?
also the oil return line is going into a (for some reason i cant think of the word right now so ill use pipe) pipe that is located about an inch to an inch and a half above the bottom of the oil pan. hope this info helps.
Modified by IIVIIoOkY at 5:05 PM 9/2/2007
it is a basemap used for breaking in the motor i cant exactly get a dyno tune on a brand new motor unless of course i wanted to pop it. so that answers one question. i asked mikey @ the shop (factory 5) if he had used the shorter dip stick and he said yes due to what clint was saying. so im positive off that.
this is all the things i had installed / replaced and what not:
OEM honda timing belt
Balancer belt
OEM water pump
Extreme act clutch
OEM cam seals
Housing Seal
Vtec oil ring
OEM honda oil pump
OEM honda main seal
custom cometic head gasket
Distributor king distributor
Golden Eagle cam seal
Re surface flywheel
*shop supplies
fluids and oil filter
valve cover studs (they dont say what they used but im assuming ARP per request)
valve cover nut
*R&R labor and re assembly
NGK spark Plugs
Vibrant O2 bung plug
im driving the car around now and its not smoking at all. i have no loss of coolant seeing as it is still filled at the max line. im using 440cc injectors and plan on upgrading when i figure this issue out. and i would never use an fmu im not dumb lol(thats why im using a chipped p28...).
also here is food for thought. since i dont have the charge pipe on the car at the moment wouldn't that be bad also for the turbo itself since its basically unrestricted spooling...?
also the oil return line is going into a (for some reason i cant think of the word right now so ill use pipe) pipe that is located about an inch to an inch and a half above the bottom of the oil pan. hope this info helps.
Modified by IIVIIoOkY at 5:05 PM 9/2/2007
Leaving the turbo on (able to spool it up) and no charge piping... with WG not held open is bad for the turbo. It can overspool because their is nothing preventing it from overspinning. So thats one thing to work on.
If there is no smoke under normal driving, your white smoke could very well be loads of fuel from the basemap. Which would be one possible explanation of why you see under boost only.
If you did use the "shorter" dipstick tube... and typically the motor might have another longer tube... then you might be overfilling it... as posted above.
Get us pictures of that oil drain... it should be 1/2-1in from the TOP of the oil pan... if from bottom.... u can be blocking the drain and killing that turbo's seals. It needs a very unrestricted drain to clear all the pressurized oil that is being sent it's way.
Do you have an oil restrictor for the turbo? What size is the oil feed line?
Lastly... STOP BOOSTING ON A BASEMAP. I can't say this enough. Never boost on a basemap, that will destroy motors.
Oh... and you can boost on a freshly built motor.... clearance problems will be evident early on... some people break motors in on the dyno.... i was boosting my built motor at about 100 miles, i just drove it unboosted for that 100 because i had to get places and had no time to finish tune. Its got 27k on it and still no smoke/burning of oil etc....
If there is no smoke under normal driving, your white smoke could very well be loads of fuel from the basemap. Which would be one possible explanation of why you see under boost only.
If you did use the "shorter" dipstick tube... and typically the motor might have another longer tube... then you might be overfilling it... as posted above.
Get us pictures of that oil drain... it should be 1/2-1in from the TOP of the oil pan... if from bottom.... u can be blocking the drain and killing that turbo's seals. It needs a very unrestricted drain to clear all the pressurized oil that is being sent it's way.
Do you have an oil restrictor for the turbo? What size is the oil feed line?
Lastly... STOP BOOSTING ON A BASEMAP. I can't say this enough. Never boost on a basemap, that will destroy motors.
Oh... and you can boost on a freshly built motor.... clearance problems will be evident early on... some people break motors in on the dyno.... i was boosting my built motor at about 100 miles, i just drove it unboosted for that 100 because i had to get places and had no time to finish tune. Its got 27k on it and still no smoke/burning of oil etc....
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From: Downers Grove, Illinois, United States
sorry i just got home from cards...i do have an oil restricter and im not sure what size the feed line is. ill get back to you guys on that tomorrow morning. i really need to sleep now. thanks for all the input so far.


