I recently had my b16a rebuilt. I also had a new competition clutch put in along side with my streetlite act flywheel. The flywheel is old and was resurfaced once 1/10000. I was told it can be resurfaced 2-3 times at 1/10000. Now i am having a few issues and have some questions. First i am getting a whirling sound from my tranny. When i push in the clutch it goes away. It was making this sound before also. my mechanic said it is the aftermarket flywheel which isnt as thick as the stock flywheel? Does this sound right in addition I also have a quiafe differential. Is there anyway to fix this sound without replacing the flywheel? I thought it was my throw out bearing initially but that was replaced with the clutch and everything still sounds the same. is something not greased? Also my mechanic retarded my ignition all the way and tuned my vafc to run pig rich. I have to do this for the first 500 miles to break in the engine. does this sound right? additionally my idle sucks is that in part because of it being rebuilt about 50 miles ago and my timing being retarded? The only thing i had the machine shop do was a mild port and polish on the head and a 3 angle valve job. current mods are quiafe, cc clutch stage 2 act flywheel, weapon r race headers (dyno tested good results do research before you hate), weapon r secret intake, blox intake manifold, custom 2.5 exhaust. additionally i was told not to rev past 5k. Which confuses me because shouldnt i open up into vtec a little bit as part of the break in process? i believe my vtec is at 5400. my future mods include buddy club spec 3 or blox type a camshafts and a jackson supercharger (maybe sent to endyn) along with better engine management besides this vafc2. maybe emanage ultimate or hondata. I am aiming more towards an autocross setup because it is my daily driver. Before this happened i had 149.7whp and 109.3 wtq on mustange dyno. these numbers were without the blox im and the minor port and polish and valve job and with a slipping clutch. I plan on getting the cams soon. I am hoping for 160whp before i get the cams. Additionally i am still debating between blox type As and BC3s. any advice would be helpful. thanks in advance h-t.

 

Holy issues Batman! Okay, I'll try to address some of the issues you have. As for the clutch noise, I have an ACT 6 puck clutch and 'streetlight' flywheel along with a Type R LSD (mine is in a K20, but so be it). I do have some noises (whirling) but I attribute mine to the LSD which I bought used. The LSD is utilizing worm gears so I've got no worries and it works fine too. I know you addressed the bearing, was it the throwout bearing, or the pilot bearing? I'm not sure if you have a pilot bearing, but if you do, that could be the noise as well. Do some more testing.....does the noise happen, stopped in neutral w/o your foot on the clutch, foot on the clutch, only in gear? As for the break in period, sounds a little 'iffy' to me. Your car was built to go to 8,000 or so rpm. Don't beat on it (hard acceleration, etc.), but there should be no problem accelerating moderately well into your upper vtec band. Just don't throw to much load at the motor. As for your fuel issue, get addressed IMMEDIATELY! To much fuel will cause unburned fuel to run past your rings into your sump. The fuel will lean the viscosity of your oil resulting in poor protection for your new motor. Retarding the motor is fine to avoid undue stress initially, but the proper air/fuel ratio is critical for various reasons. I hope this was helpful. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the reply man! I have been doing a little more research and perhaps it is my input shaft bearing. i had my tranny rebuilt 20k or so ago. I do mash gears and drive hard now and again so it could be that (flakes of metal eating at the input shaft bearing). im going to try to greese the under the fork and if that doesnt work ill try a transmission flush. if i have to rebuild the tranny im keepin the si transmission and geting type r final gear but thats money after i just spend too much on this. I looked up some posts with that in mind and people suggested removing the boot near the master slave and spraying some high temp lube in there near the fork. I think i could try that and see what happens. Perhaps it could be the quiafe causing the whirling, but i doubt it. The whirling has not been getting louder but goes away in neutral when i push on the clutch which led me to believe input shaft bearing. both the throwout and the pilot have been changed. also the A/F ratio ill fix after the initial 500 miles. ill just have it vafc2 dyno tuned. have them hook up a wideband. well i know it is not running too rich because i am not throwing any codes. I will let it cycle a little bit more and see whats up. and i think the ecu needs to adjust that is why my idle is crap right now. I really want to see if i notice a gain in vtec with the mild p and p and the blox intake manifold. maybe i take it to 6k. rev limit is 8200 i believe. fuel cut is 8400 i think i could be wrong. I know it is not running but so rich because he had it hooked up to the diagnosis machine. hopefully after 500 miles i will get it dyno tuned. or should i wait until i can afford the bc3s or blox type as. additionally my header is a 4-1. so most of my power is top end power. if i get the bc3s ill have more mid range and when i supercharge tons of mid range so maybe i should get the blox type As to make up for the top end it may be more linear power band with a supercharger and blox type As. but if i go with type As do i need ITR valve springs because blox type As make power to 8400. should my block be ok to 8400? i know i am all over the place but i appreciate all the help.

 

That low-rpm easy break-in period is complete bunk. HOpefully it isn't too late for you to start pounding on it to get the rings seated. High load/high vacuum condition in the cylinders is the best thing for it.

Stock B16 springs can handle 8400 rpms, it's whether they can handle it at the lift of the Blox A's. My friend had a B16 with some ITR cams on stock valvetrain and we banged that thing out to 8500 it ran like a champ!

Just for reference, we had a Quaife lsd, light flywheel, ACT clutch, ITR cams, old school Skunk2 manifold, and ITR 4-1 header on it (his swap came with all that on it) and the previous owner had it tuned & dynoed at 155whp. So you should definitely be in that ballpark.

 

Boom! Your block should be just fine to 8400, that's the least of your concerns. Rotating mass is critical as you increase rpms, well, until you put the supercharger on and then you had better know what your doing. Things can go 'boom' real quick. Even if that doesn't happen you can blow a head gasket, etc.

 

Hmm I didn't get to the JRSC part of the first thread...might not want to get too extreme with giant cams and boost on all stock parts.

Shamless plug: I have a set of Supertech dual springs and titanium retainers all brand new in bags for $250 shipped if you want to upgrade your valvetrain to be safe...

 

transmission noise seems to slowly go away when i let off the clutch. like something is spinning and coming to a stop

 

If the tranny whirring noise goes away when the clutch is pressed in, chances are its your input shaft bearing (NOT the throw out)
Its pretty common on D series, Im not sure about others.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=596878

Set your timing to stock, and run the vafc at stock as well - unless youre tuning it properly, thats a completely useless tool/toy (Id even sell it to offset rebuild costs)
You do not need to run mega rich on a new engine - stock timing and maps are just fine.

 

thats like my worst fear. transmission was rebuilt 20k or so ago. so i dont know if it is that plus wouldnt it stop immediatly rather then slowing down to a halt?

 

Its difficult to read your larger posts because there isnt any spacing between ideas - think paragraphs.

Id do a flush and take a look at the fluid for a shine.
When it was rebuilt, were all the bearings changed?