i am planning to take my block down to a machine shop to get it honed and bored i was wondering how bare of a block do i need it to be? do i need to take off the oil squirters for vtec? and this cap where you put the oil filter on do i need to take that off also? and when i bring down my block what do i need to bring it down? do i need my pistons right away because i have not order them yet and i was wondering if i could just tell them the size i want to bore them out??? sorry soo many questions iam nooobie

 

remove everything from the block, including the coolant pipe and thermostat housing..especially the oil squirters..

and yes you need to take the pistons when you take the block..

 

i have never taken pistons with me to the machine shop when i get a bore and hone. i get the bore and hone done first so that i know exactly what size piston to use. if u have a few scartches in the cylinder wall the machine shop will bore it out a lil more so that the scratch is either completly gone or 99% gone. if they over bore it and u already have pistons u have to send um back and deal with that ish. send the block to the machine shop first and tell them u want to run an XX.XXmm piston and they will bore accordingly and tell u if u can run that size piston.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have never taken pistons with me to the machine shop when i get a bore and hone. i get the bore and hone done first so that i know exactly what size piston to use. if u have a few scartches in the cylinder wall the machine shop will bore it out a lil more so that the scratch is either completly gone or 99% gone. if they over bore it and u already have pistons u have to send um back and deal with that ish. send the block to the machine shop first and tell them u want to run an XX.XXmm piston and they will bore accordingly and tell u if u can run that size piston. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the RIGHT way is to take the pistons with you. That way you can tell the machine shop what PTW clearance you want to use and they can bore the cylinders to that spec.

the other way around is stupid. Why would you bore the block without having the pistons there to know where the PTW is going to be? The machine shop would be boring blindly. Then once you got the pistons, you would have to measure everything again to check PTW. You'd be very lucky for everything to match up the first time doing it your way.

 

4 blocks and not one problem. i understand what ur saying though, i never thought of it.

 

if you know the exact size of your pistons , and then factor in your piston to wall clearance based on what you are using the engine for, then you can just tell the machine shop the exact size to bore/hone to.
(i.e. 75.5mm doesn't always mean 75.5mm piston skirts)
i'm not sure if all pistons do, but some have the piston to wall clearance built into the piston. so if it is a 75mm piston, that really means it's meant for a 75mm bore, because it will have the minimum piston to wall clearance spec'd by the manufacturer .

for instance, the 75mm (2.9528") D16z6 pistons JE sells (i.e. Part # 149199) are actually 2.9505".
in an exact 75mm bore cylinder, this gives you .0023" piston to wall clearance which is JE's minimum for that 4032 alloy piston.
in a forced induction engine, they recommend an additional .001"-.003" of clearance. so if you decided to add in .002" more for the forced induction engine (total clearance .0023" + .002" = .0043") , the machine shop should bore and final hone the engine to 2.9548" (2.9505" piston + .0043" wall clearance), or 75.052mm

basically get your pistons first before you get your block bored/honed. unless you have some damage to the cylinder walls, and you need the machine shop to determine how much they need to bore the cylinders to clean it up.