Made out of 3/16 ,5052 marine grade aluminum. Weighs almost exactly 2 lbs.

Figured you fabrications guys (some anyway) might appreciate it. Easy to do, I know, but fabricated none-the-less

 

that reminds me of something

http://www.fastlineperformance.com/skidplate.htm

Good job with the DIY fab though. I'm sure it cost you less than $60. I'd probably radius the corners just for a little more of a "professional" look to it.

 

I've thought about that Just might do it to the next one.

 

their's is superior by 1/16"

 

And by almost $30.00 too

I'm happy with it.. it came out real good. I'll get one on my car Wednesday if I can so you can see some installed pics in a car.

 

Heres pics of mine installed.
Gee.. I wonder what compelled me to take the ITR header off??





(btw, mac_24_seven is my brother and bummed my plate to generate his own.)

 

skid plate looks good but doesn't that hang REALLY low??

 

The header is on a b16 in a lowered CRX. His car is just too low. He put the OEM b16 header on there and its just fine now.

Not the plates fault.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mac_24_seven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The header is on a b16 in a lowered CRX. His car is just too low. He put the OEM b16 header on there and its just fine now.

Not the plates fault.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep. Since the B16's are kinda 'shorter' in general in comparison to the 1.8's, plus the extra little bit for the 4-1 design... yeah... it hung low.

 

I'd do something about the bolts. If you bottom out a couple times there might not be anything left of the heads.

 

yup i was just gonna say you should contersink the heads of those bolts

 

Or just use pan-head bolts...
I guess it's better than nothing. Countersinking would be prime, though

 

Pan head bolt?

Never heard of em... And countersinking is a good idea.. Only problem is it kills any adjustment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mac_24_seven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pan head bolt?

Never heard of em... And countersinking is a good idea.. Only problem is it kills any adjustment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you use a tapered head bolt then make the groove tapered, it would still have adjustment and be hidden

but to do that correctly that would require a mill, which you may or may not have access to

 

I don't have access to that, unfortunately.

:S

And somebody link me to a place that sells panhead BOLTS. I can find screws, but not bolts that take a socket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mac_24_seven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And somebody link me to a place that sells panhead BOLTS. I can find screws, but not bolts that take a socket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think they may have meant "Flat Head Socket Cap Screws" search mcmaster.com

something that looks like this:

 

This skid plate looks identical to the plate that fastline performance sells. I need one though.

 

A button head would work good for that also. First time scraping it though could make it a bitch getting a Allan into.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green eyed bandit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This skid plate looks identical to the plate that fastline performance sells. I need one though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Terrance (OP) sells them for $40 shipped. Thats less than 1/2 the cost of Fastline's price.
Check his sig

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrew Marquis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Terrance (OP) sells them for $40 shipped. Thats less than 1/2 the cost of Fastline's price.
Check his sig

</TD></TR></TABLE>

good math skillz there. Less than 1/2 would be less than $29.50, not $40

If it looks like the one in his pics above it's worth spending the $19 extra on the Fastline one.