After a year of reading, researching and collecting parts I installed my homemade turbo kit this weekend without great success… Here is rundown of the parts

- TD04L WRX Turbo
- HF Manifold w/ Adapter plate
- Custom Downpipe & Charge Pipes
- Stealthmode oil lines
- Oil sandwich plate
- Knock off greddy BOV
- Modified Starion Intercooler
- Chipped P28 w/ BBKA basemap
- Innovate LC-1 (Not Installed)
- DSM 450’s w/ resistors

Here are the pics of the install:







Here are the issues I am having:
1. Upon startup the car runs very very rough and is exhausting a dark color smoke. At first I thought it was some of the paint and other BS burning off but after not calming down in a couple minutes I am led to believe it is something else…

After a little reading I am led to believe that maybe the turbo is getting too much oil and blowing past the seals. If this were the case wouldn’t there be oil in the charge pipes? (There isn’t…) The oil is fed from the sandwich plate and uses a -3 AN line, does it need to be restricted?

2. On my blow off valve, it has two nipples for a vacuum line, which one should the line be plumbed to?
3. What to do about the crank case vent. I know ideally a catch can should be installed, however I don’t yet have one. For now should I just run a breather filter on the VC and plug the piping? When I first ran the car I had forgotten to disconnect the VC tubing, could this attribute to issue #1?

Thanks in advance for all the help

Also i am aware that the intercooler is not level, the brackets for it broke during install

 

first take the port on your old intake and cap it. You dont want boost going into the crankcase. just let the hose go to the ground or into a bud light can.

intall the wideband, confirm that the car is not infact tuned, tune it.

 

And vaccum goes to the top nipple of the bov.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turb20_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And vaccum goes to the top nipple of the bov.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, what is the other nipple for?

Also i think i have discovered what is causing my motor to run erratically: A backwards EPROM in the ECU, thus not running the map for the dsm 450's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks, what is the other nipple for?

Also i think i have discovered what is causing my motor to run erratically: A backwards EPROM in the ECU, thus not running the map for the dsm 450's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeap, that is what I was going to point out to you too but seem like honda-tech is having some down time. Flip it around and it should be good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks, what is the other nipple for?

Also i think i have discovered what is causing my motor to run erratically: A backwards EPROM in the ECU, thus not running the map for the dsm 450's</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's to improve response on certain setups. for what you are doing just hook up the big one to manifold vac/boost with a nice thick line and it will be fine.

and ya, put the chip in right!

 

you should really hook up coolant lines to the turbo.

and like the other dude said, remove the hose from the intake that goes to the valve cover.

 

Thanks for the input guys. Here is where i stand:

I flipped the chip, fixed the valve cover vent, and tightened the hoses all around. I then attempted to start the car. I would put the ignition to on, and wait for the check engine light to go off. Thus confirming that the ecu is working properly, (with the chip backwards the light never went off).

The motor would crank but did not seem to be firing. I checked all the fuses, none blown. I then checked the spark plugs and found they were a little fouled. I then cleaned them up and still no change. I tested for spark by grounding with a screwdriver to the chassis. No visible sparks. I then ran out of light and have to give up on it for now. Any suggestions?

I also tried a similarily configured basemap, still nothing.

And yes the coolant lines are on the to do list. I am just trying to get the car running again

 

is the fuel pump priming?

 

i think when u put the chips in backwards they may erase so that could be the culprit... reburn a chip put it in the correct way ...notch toward the latch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazyhmongboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the fuel pump priming?</TD></TR></TABLE>

my gauge on the rail indicates that there is 40 psi present...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pullig &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think when u put the chips in backwards they may erase so that could be the culprit... reburn a chip put it in the correct way ...notch toward the latch </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am going to try again. But i have already burned a new map the correct way, still just cranking...

 

swap the ECU with a known good ECU might be a bad ecu.

Also what is that sensor sticking straight down into your turbo? Is that your primary 02 sensor or the wideband sensor? If it is you can't place it there it needs to be downstream of the turbo about 16-18 inchs away on the downpipe. Sensor will get roasted very quickly up there, if it's your primary 02 sensor that might also be your cranking problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCxMagus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">swap the ECU with a known good ECU might be a bad ecu.

Also what is that sensor sticking straight down into your turbo? Is that your primary 02 sensor or the wideband sensor? If it is you can't place it there it needs to be downstream of the turbo about 16-18 inchs away on the downpipe. Sensor will get roasted very quickly up there, if it's your primary 02 sensor that might also be your cranking problem.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok. It is the primary o2 sensor...I will relocate the sensor this afternoon...

I dont have a known good ecu to test it with

 

that sensor is probably fried and that also probably the cause of your car not starting

Relocate it and if it causes too much problems you might need to get a new one

 

a o2 sensor is not your problem your not getting spark you need to check your wiring you probly didnt wire it right make sure you got the ignitor wire rite.
a rom in a ecu backwards does not erase it and wont ruin the ecu.
you need to look at the mechanical things first.

 

the nbo2 sensor location is fine....ive run mine like that for along time...

did you convert to obd1 before the turbo install or is this your first startup on that too?

does it not start at all now, or still run shitty?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FaceTuned &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a o2 sensor is not your problem your not getting spark you need to check your wiring you probly didnt wire it right make sure you got the ignitor wire rite.
a rom in a ecu backwards does not erase it and wont ruin the ecu.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank God

The car was a running d15b running a p28 basemap for 3 years prior to the turbo install. However it is the first startup with the dsm 450s. I used inline resistors, (my soldering work was legit)

Now the car does not start at all. It just cranks and cranks. Today i am going to buy a better test light to make sure i am getting spark. When i first put the turbo on it was running poorly, but running. Now nothing. I thought maybe it was flooded or something, so i took the plugs out gave it time to air out and clean'd em. Still nada...

 

try getting some noid lights and seeiing if your are getting an injector pulse signal

 

I just looked at the pics, not saying this is your problem but you might want to relocate that 02 sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just looked at the pics, not saying this is your problem but you might want to relocate that 02 sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ideally yes, however i dont think it has to do with the not-starting problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ideally yes, however i dont think it has to do with the not-starting problem </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh I know, just something I was pointing out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oh I know, just something I was pointing out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Almost time to leave work and go troubleshoot the beast. I will let you guys know the outcome

 

You'll get tired of that turbo after a little while. I had the same exact one on mine and top end sucked. I upgraded to a vf39 which was a direct swap and it made a huge difference

 

I'd say to put the chip in backwards again and give it a shot! lol

Seriously though, it sounds like its not getting enough fuel now. If you can, enrich the idle cells on the fuel map (29-17 Hg", 0-2000 rpm) by 20%. If it can start and run with 87% more fuel, it should run okay with 20% more fuel. I would NOT run boost until I ran it with a wideband though. Sounds like the BBKA map isn't a good match for yours.

My CromePro map should be similar, and its set to start & idle 450's perfectly. LMK if you need it sent out. You may need to enrich the boost columns though, it was tuned with a cat AND stock exhaust.

 

If it starts and runs with no chip in there (or even put the P28 basemap back in and try to run it with no CELs) then you know it's just the basemap you're running that's crap.

It ran on the limp-home maps, you swapped the chip around, no check-engine lights and it didn't start. All signs point to you don't have the basemap right, it's an easy fix, just get a better basemap for your setup and it should fire right up