Refreshing 00-0686... A work in progress... 56K, upgrade meow!
<u>Short Version:</u>
-Repaint, rebuild, 200whp all motor.
<u>Long Version:</u>
<U>08.23.07</U>
*long read, bare with me*
Well guys, I've FINALLY decided on my course of action with the Type-R. I've been planning on freshening heR up for the past few months, and it's time for everything to start. 103,000 miles, paint's oxidizing/fading (Not TOO noticeably, but it's noticeable to me), a few dents/dings/scrapes/chips here and there, burning oil, busted shocks... It's time.
I've put a LOT of thought into what exactly to do with the caR, and I've finally settled on some obtainable goals.
The goal, is to have a reliable, full weight street car, with all stock current options, that looks immaculate, handles great, good for 12s on slicks, and one that I'll want to hold onto until the day I die. Right now, the caR annoys me to even look at, so I know it's time to freshen heR up.
Warning: This is going to be a LONG project over the next year or so, I'm saving and spending where I can, so don't expect updates every day, week, or month. It'll be a drawn out progress timeline.
<U>00-0686:</U>








itrSteez siding...

<U>How she sits right now (Exterior wise), taken this past Saturday:</U>


Dyno video...

<U>Current modifications performed (Performance, suspension, aesthetics, miscellanious):</U>
*If not listed, assume it's stock component*
Performance:
-TODA header
-Omnipower testpipe
-DC Sports exhaust
-AEM 3" CAI
-Street-Lite flywheel
-ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate/Unsprung 6-puck (Purchased when I was going the boost route, it sucks on a stock car)
Suspension:
-Skunk2 camber kits
-H&R Sport springs
-Stock wheels, slightly polished (Polish is oxidizing, the wheels look HORRIBLE right now)
-Fuzion ZR-1 205/55/15 tires (Great tires on the road, I wouldn't try to race on them to save my life)
Aesthetic:
-Carbon fiber lip (Chipped, fading, scraped, ready to be a track dedicated piece)
-S2000 antenna
Miscellanious:
-Sparco Speed driver's seat (Only way my 6'6" tall goofy *** self can fit)
-'01 Spec floormats, stock driver's side floormat
-JDM armrest delete (Original armrest hanging on the wall in my room... I couldn't forgive myself if that got stolen from the car)
-Spoon drain plug
-6,000K HIDs
-JDM Type-R shift boot
-Rays Engineering lug nuts
It's a mild list, but the car's fun as it is.
<U>Here is the list, in order, of what's getting ready to go down in the next two weeks:</U>
-Prothane motor mount inserts *purchased* (The existing clutch tore them up)
-Prothane shifter bushings *purchased*
-Koni Yellows *purchased*
-Replace throttle body (My existing TPS is reading incorrect, making the car HELL to drive, especially with my existing clutch) *in progress of purchase*
After that, the car will be fine for a few months. The following modifications after these, are going to be the expensive ones.
<U>Here is the list, in order, of modifications a few months away:</U>
-Repainted multi-stage Phoenix Yellow, stock lip (Stock lip is purchased, and is sitting in my closet), replace broken front bumper (Previous owner hit an animal, the bumper's grill is torn)
-Replace OEM Type-R decals, and Acura "A" emblems (It says Acura on the title, so it's going to say Acura on the car)
-JDM window visors
-OEM foglights
-Rota Circuit-10s taken down to bare aluminum *performed* (Already done by me, via bead blaster)
-Rota Circuit-10s, either:
a) Powder coated gold chrome (If the shop can get the color I want, and it's not ridiculously expensive)
b) Painted BMW Metallic Gold
c) Painted Honda Solaris Silver
-205/45/16 high summer performance tires, more than likely back to Kumho Ecsta SPT, they're awesome tires.
That will be complete the exterior/aesthetic portion of the caR, it will be an expensive stage, but it will be WELL worth it, the caR will look like glass.
<U>Shortly after that, the following will be performed:</U>
-AEM CAI cut down to SRI 3" intake tube/BPI velocity stack/K&N filter
-TODA header *installed*
-Omnipower testipe *installed*
-SMS-P 2.5" exhaust
-Tuned on CROME (Just to see what I can pull out of the stock engine, before the rebuild/mild build. Plus it'll be nice to go ahead and have it ready to tune when the new engine goes in)
<U>Months and months of saving after that, this is what's next in line:</U>
-RLZ ported B16 head
-Brand new OEM Type-R valves
-Skunk2 titanium retainers/valves
-Skunk2 Pro-I cams
-Skunk2 Pro-Series cam gears
-ARP head studs
-OEM headgasket
-JDM P30 pistons (CR would be right around 11.4:1CR, it would be perfect for my selected cams... Thanks for the advice 92TypeR)
-OEM Type-R rods/crank
-ARP 8mm rod bolts
-Regular worn "rebuild" components replaced (Oil pump, gaskets, bearings, valve guides, etc)
-Fidanza 10lb flywheel
-Balanced rotating assembly, shot peened/length polished rods, etc
-Hayden oil cooler/oil filter relocation utilyzing Aeroquip stainless steel fittings/lines
-DSM 450cc injectors (Might use DSM 390cc (Automatic 1G turbo) injectors if the 450s prove too large to detune)
After the rebuild, installation, and appropriate break in period, the car will go back up on the dyno, where it will HOPEFULLY make 200whp or so.
After this stage, I'm sure I'll be happy with the car for a while. But, satisfaction only lasts so long...
<U>Here is what's planned after I start getting power/speed hungry again:</U>
-Edelbrock Performer-X intake manifold (After researching, it proves quite a damn bit better than the Importbuilder's unit, not to mention half the price, so I'm going this route... Thanks for the advice 98 ITR)
-MaxBore 70-65mm Type-R throttle body
-4.928FD (ATS, M-Factory, SRR, either or)
-Retuned on the dyno (Hopefully picking up 10whp or so)
After that, I'll be VERY satisfied with the caR, for a while at least. I'm sure I'll eventually build a 2.1/2.2 bottom end, and do a bit more extensive head work, but that's years down the road, IF I ever get to that point.
It's going to be a long project, but it will be well worth it, to keep the car in great condition for years and years to come.
All work is performed, and will be performed by Redline Speed Shop in Wilmington, NC.
Keep checking back for updates, like I said, they'll be few and far between. Thanks for reading.
Modified by GO-FIGHT-KILL at 11:47 AM 8/25/2007
Modified by GO-FIGHT-KILL at 3:58 PM 9/17/2007
-Repaint, rebuild, 200whp all motor.
<u>Long Version:</u>
<U>08.23.07</U>
*long read, bare with me*
Well guys, I've FINALLY decided on my course of action with the Type-R. I've been planning on freshening heR up for the past few months, and it's time for everything to start. 103,000 miles, paint's oxidizing/fading (Not TOO noticeably, but it's noticeable to me), a few dents/dings/scrapes/chips here and there, burning oil, busted shocks... It's time.

I've put a LOT of thought into what exactly to do with the caR, and I've finally settled on some obtainable goals.
The goal, is to have a reliable, full weight street car, with all stock current options, that looks immaculate, handles great, good for 12s on slicks, and one that I'll want to hold onto until the day I die. Right now, the caR annoys me to even look at, so I know it's time to freshen heR up.
Warning: This is going to be a LONG project over the next year or so, I'm saving and spending where I can, so don't expect updates every day, week, or month. It'll be a drawn out progress timeline.
<U>00-0686:</U>








itrSteez siding...

<U>How she sits right now (Exterior wise), taken this past Saturday:</U>


Dyno video...

<U>Current modifications performed (Performance, suspension, aesthetics, miscellanious):</U>
*If not listed, assume it's stock component*
Performance:
-TODA header
-Omnipower testpipe
-DC Sports exhaust
-AEM 3" CAI
-Street-Lite flywheel
-ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate/Unsprung 6-puck (Purchased when I was going the boost route, it sucks on a stock car)
Suspension:
-Skunk2 camber kits
-H&R Sport springs
-Stock wheels, slightly polished (Polish is oxidizing, the wheels look HORRIBLE right now)
-Fuzion ZR-1 205/55/15 tires (Great tires on the road, I wouldn't try to race on them to save my life)
Aesthetic:
-Carbon fiber lip (Chipped, fading, scraped, ready to be a track dedicated piece)
-S2000 antenna
Miscellanious:
-Sparco Speed driver's seat (Only way my 6'6" tall goofy *** self can fit)
-'01 Spec floormats, stock driver's side floormat
-JDM armrest delete (Original armrest hanging on the wall in my room... I couldn't forgive myself if that got stolen from the car)
-Spoon drain plug
-6,000K HIDs
-JDM Type-R shift boot
-Rays Engineering lug nuts
It's a mild list, but the car's fun as it is.
<U>Here is the list, in order, of what's getting ready to go down in the next two weeks:</U>
-Prothane motor mount inserts *purchased* (The existing clutch tore them up)
-Prothane shifter bushings *purchased*
-Koni Yellows *purchased*
-Replace throttle body (My existing TPS is reading incorrect, making the car HELL to drive, especially with my existing clutch) *in progress of purchase*
After that, the car will be fine for a few months. The following modifications after these, are going to be the expensive ones.
<U>Here is the list, in order, of modifications a few months away:</U>
-Repainted multi-stage Phoenix Yellow, stock lip (Stock lip is purchased, and is sitting in my closet), replace broken front bumper (Previous owner hit an animal, the bumper's grill is torn)
-Replace OEM Type-R decals, and Acura "A" emblems (It says Acura on the title, so it's going to say Acura on the car)
-JDM window visors
-OEM foglights
-Rota Circuit-10s taken down to bare aluminum *performed* (Already done by me, via bead blaster)
-Rota Circuit-10s, either:
a) Powder coated gold chrome (If the shop can get the color I want, and it's not ridiculously expensive)
b) Painted BMW Metallic Gold
c) Painted Honda Solaris Silver
-205/45/16 high summer performance tires, more than likely back to Kumho Ecsta SPT, they're awesome tires.
That will be complete the exterior/aesthetic portion of the caR, it will be an expensive stage, but it will be WELL worth it, the caR will look like glass.
<U>Shortly after that, the following will be performed:</U>
-AEM CAI cut down to SRI 3" intake tube/BPI velocity stack/K&N filter
-TODA header *installed*
-Omnipower testipe *installed*
-SMS-P 2.5" exhaust
-Tuned on CROME (Just to see what I can pull out of the stock engine, before the rebuild/mild build. Plus it'll be nice to go ahead and have it ready to tune when the new engine goes in)
<U>Months and months of saving after that, this is what's next in line:</U>
-RLZ ported B16 head
-Brand new OEM Type-R valves
-Skunk2 titanium retainers/valves
-Skunk2 Pro-I cams
-Skunk2 Pro-Series cam gears
-ARP head studs
-OEM headgasket
-JDM P30 pistons (CR would be right around 11.4:1CR, it would be perfect for my selected cams... Thanks for the advice 92TypeR)
-OEM Type-R rods/crank
-ARP 8mm rod bolts
-Regular worn "rebuild" components replaced (Oil pump, gaskets, bearings, valve guides, etc)
-Fidanza 10lb flywheel
-Balanced rotating assembly, shot peened/length polished rods, etc
-Hayden oil cooler/oil filter relocation utilyzing Aeroquip stainless steel fittings/lines
-DSM 450cc injectors (Might use DSM 390cc (Automatic 1G turbo) injectors if the 450s prove too large to detune)
After the rebuild, installation, and appropriate break in period, the car will go back up on the dyno, where it will HOPEFULLY make 200whp or so.
After this stage, I'm sure I'll be happy with the car for a while. But, satisfaction only lasts so long...
<U>Here is what's planned after I start getting power/speed hungry again:</U>
-Edelbrock Performer-X intake manifold (After researching, it proves quite a damn bit better than the Importbuilder's unit, not to mention half the price, so I'm going this route... Thanks for the advice 98 ITR)
-MaxBore 70-65mm Type-R throttle body
-4.928FD (ATS, M-Factory, SRR, either or)
-Retuned on the dyno (Hopefully picking up 10whp or so)
After that, I'll be VERY satisfied with the caR, for a while at least. I'm sure I'll eventually build a 2.1/2.2 bottom end, and do a bit more extensive head work, but that's years down the road, IF I ever get to that point.
It's going to be a long project, but it will be well worth it, to keep the car in great condition for years and years to come.
All work is performed, and will be performed by Redline Speed Shop in Wilmington, NC.
Keep checking back for updates, like I said, they'll be few and far between. Thanks for reading.

Modified by GO-FIGHT-KILL at 11:47 AM 8/25/2007
Modified by GO-FIGHT-KILL at 3:58 PM 9/17/2007
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,975
Likes: 0
From: ...and then along comes the fcuking policia, PA
Its nice to see someone who has a plan with realistic goals. Hope it all works out for you.
^ Haha, damn right. 
Appreciate the comments guys. This entire project, is with REALISTIC goals in mind. I'd love to say I'm building a 260whp all motor monster B-Series, with a $1,500 suspension, tucking $2,500 set of wheels on brand new Advan A048s... But it's not realistic for me, at this point in life.
Realistic goals FTW!!!

Appreciate the comments guys. This entire project, is with REALISTIC goals in mind. I'd love to say I'm building a 260whp all motor monster B-Series, with a $1,500 suspension, tucking $2,500 set of wheels on brand new Advan A048s... But it's not realistic for me, at this point in life.
Realistic goals FTW!!!
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Appreciate the comments guys. This entire project, is with REALISTIC goals in mind. I'd love to say I'm building a 260whp all motor monster B-Series, with a $1,500 suspension, tucking $2,500 set of wheels on brand new Advan A048s... But it's not realistic for me, at this point in life.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like my ****, lol...
Your plan sounds good brother, and you're starting in the right place with getting her back in shape, then upgrades.

I'll probably be moved up to NC half way through it to help.
Sounds like my ****, lol...
Your plan sounds good brother, and you're starting in the right place with getting her back in shape, then upgrades.

I'll probably be moved up to NC half way through it to help.
"Blueridge".....
Those guys are.... yum, ahh, nevermind. Just make sure those clowns don't work/tune your car.
P.S.
-ACL race bearings
-Fidanza 10lb flywheel
Ditch the ACL crap, OEM bearings FTW and use a steel/cromoly FW
P.S.S.
Tell Red I said "Sup"
cheers,
Those guys are.... yum, ahh, nevermind. Just make sure those clowns don't work/tune your car.
P.S.
-ACL race bearings
-Fidanza 10lb flywheel
Ditch the ACL crap, OEM bearings FTW and use a steel/cromoly FW
P.S.S.
Tell Red I said "Sup"
cheers,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sounds like my ****, lol...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah yeah yeah...
<--- Green with envy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your plan sounds good brother, and you're starting in the right place with getting her back in shape, then upgrades.

I'll probably be moved up to NC half way through it to help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hell yeah dude, looking forward to that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Blueridge".....
Those guys are.... yum, ahh, nevermind. Just make sure those clowns don't work/tune your car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah... *nudge nudge wink wink* Say no more.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P.S.
-ACL race bearings
-Fidanza 10lb flywheel
Ditch the ACL crap, OEM bearings FTW and use a steel/cromoly FW</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word, I'll keep that in mind when it comes time to purchase.
If Yack says it, it must be a good idea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P.S.S.
Tell Red I said "Sup"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, will do.
Red and Ken =
Sounds like my ****, lol...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah yeah yeah...

<--- Green with envy.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your plan sounds good brother, and you're starting in the right place with getting her back in shape, then upgrades.

I'll probably be moved up to NC half way through it to help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hell yeah dude, looking forward to that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Blueridge".....
Those guys are.... yum, ahh, nevermind. Just make sure those clowns don't work/tune your car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah... *nudge nudge wink wink* Say no more.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P.S.
-ACL race bearings
-Fidanza 10lb flywheel
Ditch the ACL crap, OEM bearings FTW and use a steel/cromoly FW</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word, I'll keep that in mind when it comes time to purchase.

If Yack says it, it must be a good idea.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P.S.S.
Tell Red I said "Sup"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, will do.
Red and Ken =
Sounds like one helluva plan mang! Always thought she looked good in the pics, but if you say she's fugly, I believe ya
Glad you're staying NA 
<--can't wait to see this project progress
Glad you're staying NA 
<--can't wait to see this project progress
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><u>Short Version:</u>
The goal, is to have a reliable, full weight street car, with all stock current options, that looks immaculate, handles great, good for 12s on slicks, and one that I'll want to hold onto until the day I die. Right now, the caR annoys me to even look at, so I know it's time to freshen heR up</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wish i had an annoying R to look at
The goal, is to have a reliable, full weight street car, with all stock current options, that looks immaculate, handles great, good for 12s on slicks, and one that I'll want to hold onto until the day I die. Right now, the caR annoys me to even look at, so I know it's time to freshen heR up</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wish i had an annoying R to look at
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ditch the ACL crap, OEM bearings FTW and use a steel/cromoly FW
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've used ACL standard bearings on all of my builds. Never had a problem.

for an NA enthusiast.
- Derek
Ditch the ACL crap, OEM bearings FTW and use a steel/cromoly FW
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've used ACL standard bearings on all of my builds. Never had a problem.

for an NA enthusiast.- Derek
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Refreshing 00-0686... A work in progress... 56K, upgrade meow!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sorry, are you saying Meow?
Modified by p nut at 12:53 PM 8/24/2007
I'm sorry, are you saying Meow?
Modified by p nut at 12:53 PM 8/24/2007
Sounds excellent, but I'll be the devils advocate and try putting my $0.02 of experience in your build plans, since no one else is
Take it with a grain of salt. Just making conversation 
1) Ditch your clutch idea. The stock disk and ACT pressure plate don't fit together very well. Just the same as the stock pressure plate doesn't fit well with the ACT clutch. Trust me. I just went through that. Not only did the pressure plate score my clutch disk, but it also scored my flywheel. All 3 were garbage. Not to mention I had to replace almost every bearing on the mainshaft, synchros, seals, 3rd gear, ect. $2200 after everything was said and done. I opted for the Exedy stage 1 organic kit, with Exedy 8lbs flywheel. All 1 company, designed to work together. Now I'm not saying to go for that, but with a disk and plate, stick to one company. If your going stock, grab a stock pressure plate as well. You'll be happy you did. When you're revving at 8K, you want that piece of mind. The stock clutch can handle your power goals as well.
2) Intake manifold .... you might want to consider the Edlebrock performer X instead of the IBspec. It's cheap, fits like ****, and WORKS! Check this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2012979
Just another option if you want to make the most out of your setup, on a budget. And yes, you're not dreaming .... it says 16WHP gain.
3) Header: Your Toda is an amazing unit, don't get me wrong, but with the power you'll be pushing, you might want to look into something a bit bigger to fully utilize your build. The Toda will work just fine, but you'll pick up a noticeable gain with say, an SMSP or RMF. Talk to BABY NSX about this .... he's in this boat right now with his Spoon header.
Other than those, your head and cam choices are perfect, and the block seems great too. You'll be happy with the motor.
For your wheels, I'd see if you can get a finish like the mirror face MF10's. The front of the spokes are polished, but the background is black ... looks dope!
Good luck!
Take it with a grain of salt. Just making conversation 
1) Ditch your clutch idea. The stock disk and ACT pressure plate don't fit together very well. Just the same as the stock pressure plate doesn't fit well with the ACT clutch. Trust me. I just went through that. Not only did the pressure plate score my clutch disk, but it also scored my flywheel. All 3 were garbage. Not to mention I had to replace almost every bearing on the mainshaft, synchros, seals, 3rd gear, ect. $2200 after everything was said and done. I opted for the Exedy stage 1 organic kit, with Exedy 8lbs flywheel. All 1 company, designed to work together. Now I'm not saying to go for that, but with a disk and plate, stick to one company. If your going stock, grab a stock pressure plate as well. You'll be happy you did. When you're revving at 8K, you want that piece of mind. The stock clutch can handle your power goals as well.
2) Intake manifold .... you might want to consider the Edlebrock performer X instead of the IBspec. It's cheap, fits like ****, and WORKS! Check this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2012979
Just another option if you want to make the most out of your setup, on a budget. And yes, you're not dreaming .... it says 16WHP gain.
3) Header: Your Toda is an amazing unit, don't get me wrong, but with the power you'll be pushing, you might want to look into something a bit bigger to fully utilize your build. The Toda will work just fine, but you'll pick up a noticeable gain with say, an SMSP or RMF. Talk to BABY NSX about this .... he's in this boat right now with his Spoon header.
Other than those, your head and cam choices are perfect, and the block seems great too. You'll be happy with the motor.
For your wheels, I'd see if you can get a finish like the mirror face MF10's. The front of the spokes are polished, but the background is black ... looks dope!
Good luck!
^ Thanks for the input, I'll definately look into a new clutch idea.
As for the intake manifold, I'm good on that. The Importbuilder's unit is better for mid range, and over all power band increase, the Victor-X is based towards top end. I know a lot of all motor guys running them, and they do great, but this car isn't a drag car, I want usable power all over the powerband. Which is the same reason I'm sticking with the TODA. SMS-P makes awesome headers (I recommend them to every person looking for the best header), but I see no reason to spend an additional $1,200 on a new header, when my existing one will do fine for my goals. Remember, I'm shooting for 200whp or so, maybe a BIT more. When I start shooting for 250whp+ (Probably never), I'll go to a full SMS-P exhaust system.
I'm looking into a new clutch right now... Might just go back to stock Type-R pressure plate and disc. I really didn't feel like buying a new pressure plate, but whatever.
As for the intake manifold, I'm good on that. The Importbuilder's unit is better for mid range, and over all power band increase, the Victor-X is based towards top end. I know a lot of all motor guys running them, and they do great, but this car isn't a drag car, I want usable power all over the powerband. Which is the same reason I'm sticking with the TODA. SMS-P makes awesome headers (I recommend them to every person looking for the best header), but I see no reason to spend an additional $1,200 on a new header, when my existing one will do fine for my goals. Remember, I'm shooting for 200whp or so, maybe a BIT more. When I start shooting for 250whp+ (Probably never), I'll go to a full SMS-P exhaust system.
I'm looking into a new clutch right now... Might just go back to stock Type-R pressure plate and disc. I really didn't feel like buying a new pressure plate, but whatever.
No problems dude. I understand you want to keep the build moderate for now, and you will definitely have the right tools to hit 200WHP.
Keep in mind though, I recommended the Performer X, not the Victor X. 2 Totally different IMs. The Victor is huge and meant for top end power of massive NA builds and FI setups. The Performer is the best out there for a motor like our with moderate to advanced builds. If you look at the Dyno sheets I linked to you, the Performer X beat out the benchmark IBspec IM across the board ... low, mid, and high range. Total of 16WHP over stock on a very moderate build with stock internals. It's less expensive too. Just keep it in mind when you look for that part. If you can't stand the thought of putting an Edlebrock part of your R, sand off the logo and polish it all
Can't wait to see updates!
Keep in mind though, I recommended the Performer X, not the Victor X. 2 Totally different IMs. The Victor is huge and meant for top end power of massive NA builds and FI setups. The Performer is the best out there for a motor like our with moderate to advanced builds. If you look at the Dyno sheets I linked to you, the Performer X beat out the benchmark IBspec IM across the board ... low, mid, and high range. Total of 16WHP over stock on a very moderate build with stock internals. It's less expensive too. Just keep it in mind when you look for that part. If you can't stand the thought of putting an Edlebrock part of your R, sand off the logo and polish it all
Can't wait to see updates!
^ Oh ****, I'm sorry dude, I misread your post... I apologize, I'm bleeding from my head right now, so I'm not exactly "all here".
Anyway, I'll look into the Performer-X, sounds like a good manifold, especially if it's cheaper. Good looking out.
Anyway, I'll look into the Performer-X, sounds like a good manifold, especially if it's cheaper. Good looking out.
Interesting thread I found on the Performer-X manifold.
We've had to do this many-a-times when installing a 1G intake manifold onto a 2G head on a DSM, so it won't be an issue... Just good to know.
We've had to do this many-a-times when installing a 1G intake manifold onto a 2G head on a DSM, so it won't be an issue... Just good to know.


