92 hatch wheel bearing
Just bout a hatch, he told me the wheel bearing is bad.makes loud humming noise from the rear and vibrates a little (sounds like bearing to me?). My question is do you think it would be cheper to just buy a new trailing arm at a junk yard instaed of haveing new bearings packed and pressed in. Also do you think this type of noise could just be coming from the drum brakes cause i can tell it needs brakes.Yes its a dx.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easier just to get the whole thing.
Those bearings are a PITA without the right tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2
There's no way to tell what it is until you get your hands on it.
Jack the tire up and spin it. If it was the brakes it would make noise.
Jack up and grab left and right side wall and try to shake the tire. Would then be the bearing
Those bearings are a PITA without the right tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2
There's no way to tell what it is until you get your hands on it.
Jack the tire up and spin it. If it was the brakes it would make noise.
Jack up and grab left and right side wall and try to shake the tire. Would then be the bearing
When I did mine, the rear bearing were sold as a part of the hub and not seperatly.
Everything simply bolted in, no press required. I did both sides in a parkinglot in a little over a hour. (rear disks)
but like said above, be sure you're fixing the right thing before spending the money.
My rear bearings made noise when I spun the wheel but it was a very different noise than the brakes make. not a dragging or scrapeing noise, more of a whiring type noise.
Everything simply bolted in, no press required. I did both sides in a parkinglot in a little over a hour. (rear disks)
but like said above, be sure you're fixing the right thing before spending the money.
My rear bearings made noise when I spun the wheel but it was a very different noise than the brakes make. not a dragging or scrapeing noise, more of a whiring type noise.
Here is what it takes to do a wheel bearing job on your Honda:
Wheel bearing & Lower ball joint
Amazing what a search will find.
m-
Wheel bearing & Lower ball joint
Amazing what a search will find.
m-
Since he's referring to a trailing arm, one would think he's talking about the rear wheel bearing.
Those are cake. Take off the drum, use a 32mm socket and remove the hub. Replace with a new one for ~$70 and put it back together.
Those are cake. Take off the drum, use a 32mm socket and remove the hub. Replace with a new one for ~$70 and put it back together.
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Actually, you did say it first, but they are not a pain to get off...unless rust is present...then it gets ugly.
Ek 1
t0p 2
me...I was on the wrong side of the car.
m-
Ek 1
t0p 2
me...I was on the wrong side of the car.
m-
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strtkart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just bout a hatch, he told me the wheel bearing is bad.makes loud humming noise from the rear and vibrates a little (sounds like bearing to me?). My question is do you think it would be cheper to just buy a new trailing arm at a junk yard instaed of haveing new bearings packed and pressed in. Also do you think this type of noise could just be coming from the drum brakes cause i can tell it needs brakes.Yes its a dx.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cheaper? No.
Easier? Yes.
Personally I'd get the bearing pressed - screw buying an entire new trailing arm.
Cheaper? No.
Easier? Yes.
Personally I'd get the bearing pressed - screw buying an entire new trailing arm.
I've had to many wheel bearing nightmares. It's too easy just to find a compatible trailing arm not to just swap them out.
If I had a press available to me then it wouldn't be a big deal.
If I had a press available to me then it wouldn't be a big deal.
if your going to get a new trailing arm, you might as well get a rear disc swap. no point in buying sad trailing arm if a swap would only be at the worst 50 more?? and they are just unbold and remove and replace. you dont have to upgrade the booster and master cylinder, but it makes life nicer if you do. just make sure you get the 4040 prop valve. and ebrake cables from the integra or si civic.
What's all this talk of replacing the trailing arm? It doesn't have to be touched. Just remove the drum and remove the hub. There's only 1 nut.
edit:

#1 is all you need, and can be found for <$80.
edit:

#1 is all you need, and can be found for <$80.
you guys are all awesome thanks for the help. I noticed the noise from the rear guy said it was a front bearing he though but he hadn't driven it in months. Jacked up all wheels none move at all when i try to shake them. when i spin the rear makes a noise in the drum it sounds like. So i think i lucked out and it might just be a brake problem. gonna investigate more when i have time. Im pretty pumped though got a fully running hatch for $800 and all it needs is a hood (black), windshield, and now brakes and a good cleaning. I love when people get tired of their hondas. better deal for me! Thanks alot guys.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strtkart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys are all awesome thanks for the help. I noticed the noise from the rear guy said it was a front bearing he though but he hadn't driven it in months. Jacked up all wheels none move at all when i try to shake them. when i spin the rear makes a noise in the drum it sounds like. So i think i lucked out and it might just be a brake problem. gonna investigate more when i have time. Im pretty pumped though got a fully running hatch for $800 and all it needs is a hood (black), windshield, and now brakes and a good cleaning. I love when people get tired of their hondas. better deal for me! Thanks alot guys.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
glad to see it's not the bearings, put still take the time to figure out where the noise is coming from. i hate when my cars aren't running right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had to many wheel bearing nightmares. It's too easy just to find a compatible trailing arm not to just swap them out.
If I had a press available to me then it wouldn't be a big deal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cheaper? No.
Easier? Yes.
Personally I'd get the bearing pressed - screw buying an entire new trailing arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mario_D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, you did say it first, but they are not a pain to get off...unless rust is present...then it gets ugly.
Ek 1
t0p 2
me...I was on the wrong side of the car.
m-</TD></TR></TABLE>
to all the guys suggesting to replace the trailing, i just wanted to say, WTF are you talking about!
the rear hub and bearing is one. it takes about 20 min to replace and that's including the time it takes to jack the car up and remove the wheel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's all this talk of replacing the trailing arm? It doesn't have to be touched. Just remove the drum and remove the hub. There's only 1 nut.
edit:

#1 is all you need, and can be found for <$80.</TD></TR></TABLE>
now t0p_sh0tta is on the right track!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
glad to see it's not the bearings, put still take the time to figure out where the noise is coming from. i hate when my cars aren't running right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had to many wheel bearing nightmares. It's too easy just to find a compatible trailing arm not to just swap them out.
If I had a press available to me then it wouldn't be a big deal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cheaper? No.
Easier? Yes.
Personally I'd get the bearing pressed - screw buying an entire new trailing arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mario_D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, you did say it first, but they are not a pain to get off...unless rust is present...then it gets ugly.
Ek 1
t0p 2
me...I was on the wrong side of the car.
m-</TD></TR></TABLE>
to all the guys suggesting to replace the trailing, i just wanted to say, WTF are you talking about!
the rear hub and bearing is one. it takes about 20 min to replace and that's including the time it takes to jack the car up and remove the wheel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's all this talk of replacing the trailing arm? It doesn't have to be touched. Just remove the drum and remove the hub. There's only 1 nut.
edit:

#1 is all you need, and can be found for <$80.</TD></TR></TABLE>
now t0p_sh0tta is on the right track!
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