The car is an 89' Rex HF While driving home the car started to stutter, like the feeling when you have no gas. I had gas, pulled over and looked the the spark plugs and wires. Cylinder 3 wire was broken off inside the cylinder... I pulled it out and reattched it to the wire. Drove about another 10 miles fine and it did it again, and this time it turned off and wouldnt turn back on. When i got the car home i changed both spark plugs and new wires. Its getting spark and im not sure about the fuel yet, but you can hear it prime. Im going to check the ignition relay and main relay tomorrow but is there any other ideas of why the sudden failure?


Modified by mini-me-power at 5:39 PM 8/25/2007

 

Anyone have imput?

 

First off if the car is an HF it never had a multi point swap because they are multi point to begin with. Second what do you mean the wire was broken off inside the cylinder? Do your spark plug wells have oil in them (when you pulled out the wires and spark plugs were they covered in oil?) I'm going to guess you have a problem with your distributor and not your relays.

 

I had the exact same prob about a month ago...mine was the main relay...i live in the south and the heat killed mine....just a tip!

 

Well cylinder 1 does have some oil in it, quite a bit actually. All other cylinders are clean. Should i invest in a new head geasket?

 

Well i went out and got a new cap and rotor and i still dont have any spark. the main relay clicks once when the fuel pump is priming and once when its done. Any suggestions?

 

You have a bad ignition coil or ignition control module (ignitor). You may also want to invest in some wires that aren't falling apart.

In addition, you may want to get those spark plug seals replaced (not the head gasket).

 

i got new wires, should i replace both the ignition coil and control module at the same time or start with one? Also when i try to crank the car it sounds real bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mini-me-power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also when i try to crank the car it sounds real bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like what?

 

You know when you crank a car, it goes ba ba ba ba ba...but mine just makes one constant baaaaa noise. its hard to explain maybe ill throw a sound clip up or something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mini-me-power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know when you crank a car, it goes ba ba ba ba ba...but mine just makes one constant baaaaa noise. its hard to explain maybe ill throw a sound clip up or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There are only 3 causes for that to happen:

1. Your timing belt is broken, or

2. the camshaft is broken, or

3. the cylinder walls are washed down.

Take off the oil cap and have someone crank the engine while you look to see if the rocker arms are moving the valves. If the arms are moving, then your belt/cam is fine, and the car should start once the ignition problem is fixed.

If the arms aren't moving, then you don't have an ignition problem at all.

 

Thanks man, ill look into that in the morning ill have someone help me out, another question is would either of those three things cause my car to studder like it had no fuel? Thats how it all got started when i was driving home, sounded like a was misfiring or had no fuel.

 

Well just checked it out and the rocker arms were moving, so looks like its the ignition problem. any other theories?

 

Coil or ignitor.

 

try a new ignitor like Targa said

 

well a mechanic from work came out and we got the car started once, but it was bogging. As soon as we gave it gas it died and the RPM's didnt work so that makes me think i need a new dizzy since thats whats being controlled there. Also after the car died we didnt have any spark. He also said the iming could be off due to the bad sound it makes while cranking.

 

Ok is the ecu showing any codes. If you can somewhat pin point in the right direction it would take alot of the guessing game out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mini-me-power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well a mechanic from work came out and we got the car started once, but it was bogging. As soon as we gave it gas it died and the RPM's didnt work so that makes me think i need a new dizzy since thats whats being controlled there. Also after the car died we didnt have any spark. He also said the iming could be off due to the bad sound it makes while cranking. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ignitor.

 

ok ill change that, also the ECU is throwing 24 i thought, but looking in my manual it only went to 14. its 2 long and 4 short.

 

ok mybe its code 20 and 4. 4 CKP - crank position sensor and 20 Electrical load detector there is no such thing as code 24


Modified by maxx5905 at 8:21 PM 9/9/2007

 

ok so do any of those codes help explain any of my symptoms. We ran tests to see the electrical issue and theres power going to the dizzy, but not from the ecu to dizzy i think he said. Also can someone point me in the direction of a decent ignitor.

 

Bump for codes...

 

10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve

 

So i should still change my ignitor and see how that works? A guy at school said it could be something about my camshaft sensor module or something?

 

UPDATE: i changed my ignitor and i still have no spark, that leads me to think its something more serious then the ignition system, i could try a new ignition coil. any other ideas?