iits a 1988 CRX si with a SOCH ZC and its a single wire O2 just so you know

alrite im haveing a really hard time getting this damb 02 senser 2 work. i just installed a bran new NTK o2 sensor and my ECU is still throwing the code . iv check the grounds at the thermostat houseing. iv tryed fallowing the wire looking for breaks. but i dident wanna cut my harness all up so i dident go 2 far.


Modified by circapunk at 7:48 AM 8/21/2007

 

like no matter what i do it still throws the o2 code... any ideas anyone.....

 

The O2 code can be because of lean/rich conditions too.

I found that the connector to the O2 sensor comes apart inside. Try to push the wires into the connector. Grab both wires and push together.

Can you probe the connector at the ecu to see if the ecu is seeing it.

 

well the wire from my harness is one of those wires with a wire around it and about 5 inches from my connected the out side wire is cut and all frayed .......

 

also its a single wire connector

 

Frayed wire... Fix it.

Wire with a wire around it? Explain more!

I too, drive an 88si You do have the stock si harness right.

You might be trying the wrong wire I think.

 

sorry i used my 5 posts fir 24 hours so i made a new name to talk to u...... ok its a shilded wire black outside - white inside the white one going to the sensor and the black one around the white one. rite befor teh sensor the black one on the out side dosent go into the sensor but it frayed aroudn the white one..... also im talking about the sensor connecter attached to the harness not the one connected to the sensor it self.....

PS in case i cant msg u again to do u have a email possibley becuse u are acctuly helping me out quite a bit here... would me haveing a bit higher fuel pressure throw the code also.....

 

If Michael Moore ever makes a movie about Canadian schools being better I will be sure to link him to this thread.

But seriously... If the wire is cut or frayed that needs to be fixed, that could easily be causing the problem. O2 sensors will be fouled if you get any oil or coolant on them, so make sure that did not happen. Is the check engine light coming on constantly and every time, or are you getting a random CEL that turns off when you restart the car and then does not return for another 500 or so miles? If the latter is the case then you are not the only one with that problem, I have this, as does 3 other members that I know of and I think we are all trying to discover the source of this mystery light. If it is not this then start with the cheapest and most obvious problems first and work your way up.
So start with the messed up wire and if that does not fix it start checking for lean/rich causes.

Lean causes:
Vacuum leaks - check for failed or loose vacuum lines, leaking intake gaskets, intake air tubes loose or any other source of un-metered air leaks (leaks after the Mass Air Flow Sensor)
Restricted fuel filter or bent/pinched fuel system lines
Incorrect input from other sensors, such as the Mass Air Flow Sensor, which may not always drop a separate code
Engine misfire

Rich causes:
A leaking or faulty fuel injector
Fuel injector driver in computer shorted, or wiring short for injectors (likely a ground short)
Leaking or faulty fuel pressure regulator or restricted return line
Faulty evaporative emissions system - bleeding fuel vapors into engine (not commanded by computer)
Faulty readings from other sensors such as a Mass Air Flow Sensor. You may actually be getting more air than the MAF tells the computer
Exhaust leaks before the sensor will cause erratic readings
A computer, wiring issue or faulty O2 sensor

 

ok
i stat my engine and iw ait for it to heat up so it can go into closed loop rite..... so *** soon as the fan turns on its heated up and then the code gets thrown rite when the fan switches on.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by circapunk1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok
i stat my engine and iw ait for it to heat up so it can go into closed loop rite..... so *** soon as the fan turns on its heated up and then the code gets thrown rite when the fan switches on.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you actually check the code and get the blinking lights that correspond to an o2 sensor problem, or are you just guessing? Either way there is plenty of information in this post for you to start at. Do a search and see if there is anything similar to your problem that has been solved and posted about in the past, make sure to check archived content https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch.
Go check the things that thesmogman and I suggested to you, THEN if you are still getting the code get a spell check program, I think firefox has a spellcheck add on and then post with your results whether it fixed it or not and then there will be a foundation to go from there. Also there is a reason that the posts are limited for trial users, I did not get the luxury of extra posts when I joined honda-tech. When you run out of posts for the day, instead of making a new username take that time and do searches until you get a new bank of posts.

 

My E-mail is in my profile so go ahead and use it. I will have to check it.

Code sets when the fan turns on.

You have checked the LED on the ECU to get your code correct. Just one flash = O2.

 

yes thats how i know its throwing the o2 sensor code... because the LED is blinking once.... i replaced my fuel filter a little wile ago about a month ago. i guess ill just have to try a couple difrent things.. today at work. man i just wanna pass E-test

and dorry for my miss spelling ( i was trying to type a msg quickly because i m not sopose to use the computers at work.) so could you please bare with me. amd sprry for makeing a new name. im in a sorta rush to figure this out and i cant be sittin around waiting for the next day so i can ask 5 more questions. i work at a deaker ship and i got a bunch of GM machanics trying to figure it out but there all busy on there own work so im tryen to figure it out on my own. sory and i need to try and fix this withen a week or so.

also just woundering if advanced timeing might be a problum also. becuase i remember when i bought the car i was told the guy befor had played with timeing i havent got around to checking to see if it perfict but could that play a big roll...

or even a valve adjustmant maybe??


Modified by circapunk1 at 4:19 AM 8/22/2007


Modified by circapunk1 at 4:28 AM 8/22/2007

 

The only thing I can think of the would relate the fan and the O2 would be a ground. Double check your grounds and clean them if covered with oil or corrosion.
I take that back, just clean them.

Check to make sure your alt bolts are tight. The mounts for the alt are the ground for it too. You might want ot clean them too.

I know what you are thinking but alot of problems can be related to grounds.

 

Timing can cause this problem. After a DPFI-MPFI swap I had the distributor wires C1 and C2 reversed, this caused my ignition timing to be retarded (found this out later). So I thought I had jumped a tooth on my cam. I advanced my cam 1 tooth and then set my ignition timing. After driving at 70 mph for 10-15 minutes the CEL came on with the o2 code (this is like when your fan comes on and the ecu starts reading the o2 sensor). I drove like that for about a month trying to figure this out and searching on H-T then posting the problem. After I found out from someone here on H-T that the swapped wires at C1 and C2 would not give a CEL and retard the timing too, I swapped the wires, jumped a tooth back on the timing belt, and then set my ignition timing to the right timing mark on the crank pulley. I have not had a CEL since then. So check and set your cam timing and your ignition timing, they effect your emissions enough that the o2 can detect an error.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If Michael Moore ever makes a movie about Canadian schools being better I will be sure to link him to this thread.

But seriously... If the wire is cut or frayed that needs to be fixed, that could easily be causing the problem. O2 sensors will be fouled if you get any oil or coolant on them, so make sure that did not happen. Is the check engine light coming on constantly and every time, or are you getting a random CEL that turns off when you restart the car and then does not return for another 500 or so miles? If the latter is the case then you are not the only one with that problem, I have this, as does 3 other members that I know of and I think we are all trying to discover the source of this mystery light. If it is not this then start with the cheapest and most obvious problems first and work your way up.
So start with the messed up wire and if that does not fix it start checking for lean/rich causes.

Lean causes:
Vacuum leaks - check for failed or loose vacuum lines, leaking intake gaskets, intake air tubes loose or any other source of un-metered air leaks (leaks after the Mass Air Flow Sensor)
Restricted fuel filter or bent/pinched fuel system lines
, which may not always drop a separate code
Engine misfire

Rich causes:
A leaking or faulty fuel injector
Fuel injector driver in computer shorted, or wiring short for injectors (likely a ground short)
Leaking or faulty fuel pressure regulator or restricted return line
Faulty evaporative emissions system - bleeding fuel vapors into engine (not commanded by computer)
Faulty readings from other sensors such as a Mass Air Flow Sensor. You may actually be getting more air than the MAF tells the computer
Exhaust leaks before the sensor will cause erratic readings
A computer, wiring issue or faulty O2 sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>


the poor kid is probably still trying to find a MAF sensor on his crx
I sent michael moore a copy of your post

 

i know were my MAF sensor is thank you. **** this really sucks i cant figure out anything. ill have to take a picture of the acctuly wire of my O2 maybe someone can compare it to theres. and tell me if something is really messed up.

 

this is a forum about car and some ppl on here spend more time picking at someone spelling error and maken ppl feel like crap when all there looken for is help why do u ppl even come on a forum. you guys ruin anyones intrest in cars

im talking about the rude ppl not the ppl that acctuly take the time to help a honda enthusiest

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by circapunk1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know were my MAF sensor is thank you. </TD></TR></TABLE>

really? PeeWee was trying to let you know in a subtle way that you don't have a MAF sensor. None of us do, at least not on these cars...

Reading this thread makes me think that american and canadian schools are on about the same level, low

 

i dunno about you but i do have a maf sensor i duno if cuz my car is canadian or what but i got one.....

 

MAF = Mass Air Flow Meter. Meters air with a wire and resistance
VAF = Vane Air Flow Meter. Meters air with a door blocking the air flow and uses the position of said door to meter the air.
MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. Uses a diaphram to meter air pressure

These are the big three for measuring Air flow and all Honda's use a MAP sensor.

Are you sure about that.