ok my 97 ex with d16y8 just started burning oil now i am wonderin what may cause this it is still under 100K so i wouldnt think the rings are bad cause its nto that high of milege and i am going fi soon and i know boost will only make the problem worse so could it be that my valves are out of adjustment or what else could it be

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejcivicex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok my 97 ex with d16y8 just started burning oil now i am wonderin what may cause this it is still under 100K so i wouldnt think the rings are bad cause its nto that high of milege and i am going fi soon and i know boost will only make the problem worse so could it be that my valves are out of adjustment or what else could it be</TD></TR></TABLE>

Leaking valve stem seals are another common problem. Only way to know for sure is to do a compression/leakdown test to isolate it.

Are you sure it's burning and not simply leaking out? Is there oil in the spark plug tubes?

 

positive burning

 

It's normal. They all burn a little oil. D series, B series, H series, F series. whatever. They all do it. No big deal.

How much is it burning?

Boosting it will magnify any problems you allready have. It will also create new problems, so be ready for that.

Valve stem seals are a common place for oil to be burned from. No, a valve adjustment will not help. This will get worse if you plan to boost because the oil will tend to get contaminated and break down faster because of a turbo's heat.

You can get those replaced for fairly cheap. Shops around here charge around $200 for a B series adjustment including parts and labor. I'm guessing the D would be similar.

 

so ur saying replace valve steps and say a prayer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejcivicex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so ur saying replace valve steps and say a prayer

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i said its a common place for oil to leak into the combustion chamber. Like someone else said, do a compression/leakdown test first to make sure it's not the rings.

 

Sometimes its the guides, but from the blocks I've torn down, the oil control rings are almost always frozen in place form coking, and a clear path for oil is visible on the piston skirt.

Using ATF in your oil before a change for a little bit help break a lot of that stuff down.

 

atf?

 

automatic transmission fluid. viscosity is thicker.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sometimes its the guides, but from the blocks I've torn down, the oil control rings are almost always frozen in place form coking, and a clear path for oil is visible on the piston skirt.

Using ATF in your oil before a change for a little bit help break a lot of that stuff down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i've heard of the trick using ATF as a "motor flush". It's a thin, high detergent oil. But sometimes if you put all that crap (carbon, and other deposits) back into the oil pan at once, you can clog the oil pick up. Since the D16Y8 has a weak *** oil pick up allready, i would not suggest doing this.

OP: what kind of oil are you using? Synthetics burn more frequently than conventional oil. Synthetics get super thin when they get hot. Mobil1 is notorious for burning in honda motors, although i've had no problems using it on my B16A, and my F20C.

I've heard from several sources that royal purple is preferred for use in honda motors since for some reason...it doesn't burn off as much as mobil1 does.

Not sure why it is the way it is...but....yeah.....

 

im running royal purple 5w30 in my b16a and i dont burn much oil at all. ya i get on it. ya i dd it as well. i went from a mobil 1 to the purp and i burnt the mobil1 way more rapid then the purp. purp ftw