LSVTEC ?'s
I have my JDM B18b BLOCK WITH AN Si-r tranny...just finished the swap a few weeks ago and its running pretty smooth. no complaints...I am planning to do the LS VTEC in a few weeks...I need sugestions on VTEC head choices...right now im leaning on the B16A1 because its the cheapest but any suggestions or tips because this is my first LSVTEC build...thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redEF8vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yah...its what i have been leaning towards...any good sites other than ebay on where to find VTEC heads?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look in the Marketplace here or the EF parts FS/WTB thread.
Look in the Marketplace here or the EF parts FS/WTB thread.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redEF8vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yah...its what i have been leaning towards...any good sites other than ebay on where to find VTEC heads?</TD></TR></TABLE>
your almost better off buying a B16 long block, yanking the head and selling the bottom end. It's almost the same amount to buy head by itself not to mention a head may not have every part you need. You would be amazed how many little nuts and bolts and brackets get yanked off when motors get parted out. you may get a head for $500.00 and have to but another $100-$300 into it just to make it complete! it's just risky for somebody like you that does not know that much about what your buying, you are unfortunately a target for scammers as well.
Hmotorsonline.com is one of your best bets for a B16 at the best price
your almost better off buying a B16 long block, yanking the head and selling the bottom end. It's almost the same amount to buy head by itself not to mention a head may not have every part you need. You would be amazed how many little nuts and bolts and brackets get yanked off when motors get parted out. you may get a head for $500.00 and have to but another $100-$300 into it just to make it complete! it's just risky for somebody like you that does not know that much about what your buying, you are unfortunately a target for scammers as well.
Hmotorsonline.com is one of your best bets for a B16 at the best price
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecSyndrome »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your almost better off buying a B16 long block, yanking the head and selling the bottom end. It's almost the same amount to buy head by itself not to mention a head may not have every part you need. You would be amazed how many little nuts and bolts and brackets get yanked off when motors get parted out. you may get a head for $500.00 and have to but another $100-$300 into it just to make it complete! it's just risky for somebody like you that does not know that much about what your buying, you are unfortunately a target for scammers as well.
Hmotorsonline.com is one of your best bets for a B16 at the best price
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Hmotorsonline.com is one of your best bets for a B16 at the best price
</TD></TR></TABLE>X a number that can't fit in this small box.
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i have a 1990 honda civic hatchback that ran great until the other day when i went to start it just turns over and over. checked we have spark and will start right up when using starter fluid. did the key test to determine if fuel pump was working. replaced fuel pump same thing. also no burnt smell from ecu. so now we are trying to find where main relay switch is and we were told to run a wire from battery to fuel pump and see if fuel pump comes on so to my question which wire is positive going to the fuel pump and is there some kind of test to determine if the main relay is not working.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mckinleymc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 1990 honda civic hatchback that ran great until the other day when i went to start it just turns over and over. checked we have spark and will start right up when using starter fluid. did the key test to determine if fuel pump was working. replaced fuel pump same thing. also no burnt smell from ecu. so now we are trying to find where main relay switch is and we were told to run a wire from battery to fuel pump and see if fuel pump comes on so to my question which wire is positive going to the fuel pump and is there some kind of test to determine if the main relay is not working.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thread jacking noobs
thread jacking noobs
i dont understand what jacking noobs mean if you are referring to what ever that sign is showing those letters i did not put this there the only thing i have done is type in a question asking for help so obviously i came to the wrong place. i was told you guys were good and this is the response i get to my question. i don't know about you but it is very important to us that we get our car going asap since we only have one car and he has to be at work at 6 am tomorrow and the buses dont go to his place of employment. so treating my request like its a joke was very un cool.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mini-me-power »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off, read the rules!
Second, start your own thread. The title is for lsvtec, not "help me i don't know what i am doing"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn those thread jacking noobs!
Second, start your own thread. The title is for lsvtec, not "help me i don't know what i am doing"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn those thread jacking noobs!
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