$50 paint job with spray gun please post pics and what sets you took/mix ratio.
my friend wants to try to this with the paint gun instead of the roller method.
Modified by Queenz kid at 12:57 AM 8/20/2007
Modified by Queenz kid at 12:57 AM 8/20/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just test sprayed a crx bumper to see how it would turn out with interlux brightside thinned 25ml of 216 thinner to 125ml of paint. used a husky hvlp cheapo. let the first mist coat dry for about 20 mins then did a wet coat. i ran out of paint during the 2nd coat. i painted around 6pm, and let it dry overnight. here is a pic in the morning.

some orange peel but its the first body part ive ever sprayed in my life, so im very impressed and learnt a lot in the process. always practice first
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copy/paste from $50 pj thread

some orange peel but its the first body part ive ever sprayed in my life, so im very impressed and learnt a lot in the process. always practice first
</TD></TR></TABLE>
copy/paste from $50 pj thread
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I used a 1.8mm tip gun for my "50 Dollar" paint project. I mixed it about 2:1 ratio of rustoleum to mineral spirits. I ended up spending about 200 dollars with the buffer and all the compounds for it. (I already had the gun so thats not included in the cost)




i would love to try this stuff! can anyone tell me wher to start? i know i need to get a husky spray gun.. i dont know the rest of procedures lol pls anyone help me
alright like said above its a 2:1 ratio unless you want ridiculous amount of runs. I rolled on my first 6 coats then I bought a hvlp gravity feed gun of ebay for like 30$ and o my god is it 100 times better than rolling
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2 frm da island »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would love to try this stuff! can anyone tell me wher to start? i know i need to get a husky spray gun.. i dont know the rest of procedures lol pls anyone help me</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get to readin man, there is 170 page thread on this method. I read all of it before I did mine and im glad.
Get to readin man, there is 170 page thread on this method. I read all of it before I did mine and im glad.
whats the point of doing the $50 paint job if you are going to spray it?? if you're going to spray it, why not use car paint. i'm sure you can get some super cheap paint that will still be 10 times better than paint that was made for a barn.....just curious
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAneronimo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the point of doing the $50 paint job if you are going to spray it?? if you're going to spray it, why not use car paint. i'm sure you can get some super cheap paint that will still be 10 times better than paint that was made for a barn.....just curious</TD></TR></TABLE>
This method is a lot cheaper and more forgiving than using real paint. With a real 2 stage paint you have to mix paint as well as chemicals to certain ratios depending on temp and conditions, its harder to do at home because imperfections arent as easily taken care of, and you need better/more equipment such as finer tipped guns to spray the base and clear correctly. Also I used this method as my first paintjob to learn gun techniques and prep work. The rustoleum also covers very well so you dont really need to primer/sealer over body work you have done. Im sure I will do a few "real" paint jobs in the future but this method is an excellent way to learn the basics and get a result that is better than a lot of OEM paint jobs I have seen.
This method is a lot cheaper and more forgiving than using real paint. With a real 2 stage paint you have to mix paint as well as chemicals to certain ratios depending on temp and conditions, its harder to do at home because imperfections arent as easily taken care of, and you need better/more equipment such as finer tipped guns to spray the base and clear correctly. Also I used this method as my first paintjob to learn gun techniques and prep work. The rustoleum also covers very well so you dont really need to primer/sealer over body work you have done. Im sure I will do a few "real" paint jobs in the future but this method is an excellent way to learn the basics and get a result that is better than a lot of OEM paint jobs I have seen.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAneronimo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the point of doing the $50 paint job if you are going to spray it?? if you're going to spray it, why not use car paint. i'm sure you can get some super cheap paint that will still be 10 times better than paint that was made for a barn.....just curious</TD></TR></TABLE>
because of the price and the stages. plus theres nothing wrong with enamel paint.
thats what they used to paint cars with and thats what alot of owners with muscle cars uses
oh, i absolutely understand why you would do this instead of a base/clear system, as that is defintely a ton more work. i just meant single stage. it would basically be the same process. i was just curious because i havent really seen anyone do the "$50 paint job" for $50 and have it look good. it seems to me like the only $50 paint jobs that look good are the ones that end up costing $400. i just know that you can get omni paint pretty cheap, and i'm sure there are others that are comparably priced that would work well. and honestly; mixing the paint isnt hard at all. alot of the auto body stores around me give you the mix cups with the measurements on them. i think there is some art to knowing exactly what ratios of chemicals to use, but you can get close enough going off of what the paint can says. good luck!! post up those pics when you're done!
def. see orange peel. but hey im in the process of the same project. im actually waiting for my first part of my car to dry right now... passenger side fender.


