Car: 1990 crx si, fresh rebuilt gsw swap, new dizzy, oem plugs, wire etc etc, Locash engine jumper rywire po6 chiped ecu for gsr.

The car runs and idles great but as soon as you drive it, the car is slow as hell and I am not hitting v-tec, or atleast cant hear/feel it. I have had no codes except today I got a code 44 which is the fuel delivery system. This car sat with a full tank of gas for 8 months. I changed the fuel filtetr and was disgusted at the **** I found inside it. I drained my tank and put a few gallons of fresh gas in it, reset the ecu and tried to drive it. Once the car gets up to opp temp/open loop The code 43 comes on. The o2 I have on the car is used and came with my engine. I dont want to start throwing parts at this. I am thinking about droping the tank and ohming my fuel pump and seeing if the fuel pump sock is full of ****. Do you guys have any ideas?

-Chris

 

most ppl say its a bad o2 sensor.

 

The O2 sensor has its own code. I belive that the o2 picks up an incorect exhaust mixture ? and makes the code come on. Does anyone have a test procedure for the 4 wire o2? I made sure I am getting a power and ground for the heater circuit and its good.

-Chris

 

Anyone have experience with this code
?

 

i had a code 43 and it was the ignitor in my distributor , so just replaced it

 

My dizzy is brand new from RYWIRE. So basicaly anything that causes a incorect air/fuel mixture can set it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white90rexsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My dizzy is brand new from RYWIRE. So basicaly anything that causes a incorect air/fuel mixture can set it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a code 43 a few years ago and sure enough it was a bad O2 sensor. Try that before dropping your tank.

 

My car is throwing the same code. I have tried new 02 sensor, main relay, map sensor, injectors, and I have check full pressure 35psi at idle and 45psi when you pull the vacuum line off the fuel regulator. I also switch the cat out with a test pipe. I am trying a distributor tonight. I will let you guys know what I find out.


Modified by WillieWillieFast at 4:33 PM 8/22/2007

 

Have you looked into fuel pump problems? I know your pressure is up, but what about your fuel volume? That Is what I belive to be my problem. I cant find a spec from acura on what the volume. What you do is you unhook the fuel line, put it in a measuring container and have someone turn your key. You should have X amount of fuel in X amount of time according to a spec.

What you did is exactley what I dont want to do, just start throwing parts at it. My distibutor is new, I dont think that is the problem. The o2 has its own codes if it has a fault and I have no o2 codes. My injectors came with my skunk 2 manifold, My fuel filter is new. I took them out before the install and the looked fine. All that leaves me with is my fuel pump. I replaced the fuel filter. When I removed the old one lots of BROWN gsr came out of the filter. It had all kinds of **** in it. When I flushed the old gas out of my tank it did not look bad. Im going to drop my tank this weekend (maybe) and take a look/ohms my pump.

 

All the parts I am throwing at it, are tester parts(other wise free). The only thing its costing me is my time. When I did my motor swap about 6 months ago I replace everything I could think of. The only thing I haven't switch is the fuel pump. I just don't want to buy one or drop my tank.

 

Same with my swap, just about everything is new oem honda parts. I belive you can ohms the pump without droping the tank, I was thinking I may be able to ohms the fuel pump where it connects to the main relay but I dontk now if the extra wire would give the meter a false reading. I think in my case I am stuck to where I have to drop the tank. I took a look at the containers that I put the old gas and so much **** has settled to the bottem. I will let you know after I drop the tank if I find anything.

 

By the way, can I have some info on your swap? what engine, what ecu, obd 0 or obd 1? Does your car run good? My engine starts right up and runs great, but feels crazy slow. I have no pull at v-tec. I think this is all related to my fuel problem.

 

43) Fuel Supply System - Defective or malfunctioning Fuel Supply Sytem

 

I have a 99 civic ex motor with a P28 ECU OBD1. My car idles really low and hesitates between 2,000 and 3,000 rpms. The CDL light only comes on when the car gets up to operating temperature and I am cruising around 45 to 65 mph.

 

By the way this is on my daily driver 90 crx SI, not my SFWD 88 CRX SI.

 

im having the same problem and i replaced my o2 sensor not 4 hours ago and it didnt fix the problem, i have a new fuel pump so when i get it in ill let you know if that worked

 

I have my buddy getting me a fuel rail, regulator and a fuel pump from the shop. I am going to try the rail and regulator first.

 

My car starts up and runs great, at idle. It will redline fine but I feel like I have no power ( My b16 would of smoked this gsr). The cell comes on once I reach opp temp.

 

the 02 sensor kick on when the car reaches opp temp, i replaced mine but it didnt fix the problem, i looked it up on alldata and it seems that its going to be the sensor, a short or replace the ecu

 

Yeah, when you car is cold your ecu runs off closed loop where none of the sensore provide input for the ecus actions, it runs off a preset parameter. Once you get up to opp temp and the o2 is hot enough it switches to open look. I Wish I could find a test procedure for the o2. I really dont want to spend 80 bucks on one and find out thats not the problem. I really think I have a physical fuel issue here.

 

I tried a fuel regulator and a distributor. Still didn't fix it.

 

have you tried a known good p28
if doesnt work then i would recheck your wiring
if still good then try known good o2

 

I bought a brand new o2 sensor. I am trying to get a P28 ecu that I can test.

 

on my a6 block z6 head converted to obd1 (p28) i get a code 43 after my car idles about 1 minute.

I cant come up with why its doing it. Power is awesome, but the code coming on annoys the hell outta me.

When the car is left to idle at reg operating temperature, the idle goes from a steady 800ish to 1000 when the code comes on :-|

I can quickly turn the car off then right back on to remove the code. It doesnt come back at all while driving, only when it sits at idle.

Ive checked everything you guys have, but i still have code 43 haunting me at long red lights

 

Have you checked your fuel pump ( both physically looking at it and ohms it?) and have you checked your fuel pressure?