http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0e8cKpQ3zM

anybody got any idea what exactly the problem mite be?!? i read it mite be the fuel pump/ main fuel pump relay. i replaced the cap and rotor and it starts up better but still has a struggle to start im stumped

 

This seems like a classic compression problem, when was your last oil change. When you start it up, do you get lots of black smoke, I would blame leaky injectors if so. I believe that fuel has washed down the rings, hence washed off the oil causing a loss of compression, as the oil pressure builds up, oil coats the cylinder walls and rings and allows compression to build up. More cylinders start to contribute and the engine eventually smooths out.

This could also be an oil pressure issue with the valve lifters but I tend to think you have fuel soaked oil and maybe leaky injectors. Pull your dipstick and see if it smells like fuel.

I am an old fart, could you do a YouTube tutorial, I have not played with it or give a link to the page that teaches you how to post videos on YouTube please, that was awsome.

 

i changed the oil about a month ago and no black smoke when start up. i changed out the main fuel relay and still the same problem. the parts guy at honda told me it could be the igniter or coil now. do you think it could be those?!?

 

How long does it have to sit before it does this fast spinning start with what sounds like no compression, I do not believe that the coil or ignitor will act up on a cold engine, but after sitting for 5 to 45 minutes (a hot soak) then yes, but not after sitting all night. That is a symptom of leaky fuel injectors washing oil off of the rings.

See if the dealer will install those parts and guarantee it will start right away tomorrow morning and dont let them change the oil, what does your oil smell like now please, does it drip off of your dipstick easier than what good oil would drip, good thick oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How long does it have to sit before it does this fast spinning start with what sounds like no compression, I do not believe that the coil or ignitor will act up on a cold engine, but after sitting for 5 to 45 minutes (a hot soak) then yes, but not after sitting all night. That is a symptom of leaky fuel injectors washing oil off of the rings.

See if the dealer will install those parts and guarantee it will start right away tomorrow morning and dont let them change the oil, what does your oil smell like now please, does it drip off of your dipstick easier than what good oil would drip, good thick oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually i think it starts better when its cold. i didnt smell any fuel on the dip stick so i dont think its leaky fuel injectors. today it start acting up every time i shut it off and after 20 mins i started it back up it would struggle.

i changed the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and recently the main fuel relay and just 2 days ago the igniter. ppl are now saying it could be the coil. im so stumped this sucks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2oh6civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

actually i think it starts better when its cold. i didnt smell any fuel on the dip stick so i dont think its leaky fuel injectors. today it start acting up every time i shut it off and after 20 mins i started it back up it would struggle.

i changed the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and recently the main fuel relay and just 2 days ago the igniter. ppl are now saying it could be the coil. im so stumped this sucks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Next time you go to start it hold the gas pedal to the floor and see if it starts quicker and smooths out quicker. That would be a pretty good sign of washed down rings caused most likely by leaky injectors.

 

ok so i pulled the spark plugs yesterday and they were dry and corroded. does that mean im running lean?

 

It means its way past time for a tune up, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, air filter and fuel filter. Worn (high milage) spark plugs will contribute to a lean misfire if the gap is too big. Yes, the amount of fuel in the cylinder plays a major role in combustion, after all, fuel is easier to ignite than air, so the correct proportion is important but you seem to only be having a problem under one scenario.

A worn cap and rotor adds to the amount of voltage needed to get the first spark in the cap, the second spark is at the plug, if they are both worn, then the ignition system must work even harder under the accelleration scenario.

You have to know how to read a spark plug for rich and lean operation and you do not read it after an idle period but if the plug has been in the engine for some real time then the average fuel consumption will be burned into the plug and it can be read anytime. Looking down inside the plug at the white porcelin, you will notice all white (too lean) or some blackness down inside the plug (good) or more blackness approaching the tip (rich) of the plug or it will be all black (very rich). This needs a strong flash light to see down inside the plug for that 'really lean' look. The OEM (NGK) correct part number is important also for the plug.

Race drivers go ***** to the wall down the 1/4 mile, at the end, they do not let off the gas, they kill the engine at full throttle, if they want to read the true burning of the plugs, of course they may check the plugs every single race and make adjustments accordingly.