Yeah.. so no air intake baffle ( aka 'snorkel' ) plus drop-in K&N filter on a D Series engine = horrible driveability.

I had this combo about a week after i purchased the car.. so i didn't really know what stock was like. I started to notice that my power was crap until i revved up to 3000rpm, then it almost instantly ramps up to having +3-10hp over stock.

As i started driving in traffic more, it started seeming like my car was bogging hard below 3k.. I checked out everything.. dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires, battery terminals, oil, transmission etc etc.

So as a last resort i put the old air filter in today.
Tadaah! doesn't bog anymore. Actually driveable in the city. Less power up top but hey. I'll put the k&n on when it's time to race around.

maybe my ghetto cold air was letting too much air in? maybe removing the snorkel messes up intake characteristics? whatever it is, ghetto cold air is no bueno.
From the dynos i've seen, a real cold air seems to b0rk up your low-end power too.
I'll keep my stock intake until it's time to swap, thanks.

Just thought i'd throw this out there 'cause there've been a couple people posting about low-rpm bogging and have recieved no answers. I've finally figured out my issue.

 

 

wait...what? you just took the spaghetti pipe out and put a drop in filter....and it made it run like ****? am i missing something here?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE> x2 lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neptronix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah.. so no air intake baffle ( aka 'snorkel' ) plus drop-in K&N filter on a D Series engine = horrible driveability.

I had this combo about a week after i purchased the car.. so i didn't really know what stock was like. I started to notice that my power was crap until i revved up to 3000rpm, then it almost instantly ramps up to having +3-10hp over stock.

As i started driving in traffic more, it started seeming like my car was bogging hard below 3k.. I checked out everything.. dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires, battery terminals, oil, transmission etc etc.

So as a last resort i put the old air filter in today.
Tadaah! doesn't bog anymore. Actually driveable in the city. Less power up top but hey. I'll put the k&n on when it's time to race around.

maybe my ghetto cold air was letting too much air in? maybe removing the snorkel messes up intake characteristics? whatever it is, ghetto cold air is no bueno.
From the dynos i've seen, a real cold air seems to b0rk up your low-end power too.
I'll keep my stock intake until it's time to swap, thanks.

Just thought i'd throw this out there 'cause there've been a couple people posting about low-rpm bogging and have recieved no answers. I've finally figured out my issue. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No. I'm a scientist. I think the lack of low end power comes from using a D series. Also, top end power. I know this because I've been running experiments with monkeys on this motor for years. Poor monkeys....they were so innocent before.

Iduno if THAT much lack of driveability is caused by a CAI or ghetto CAI or whatever. I used an ebay CAI on my D16Z6 (before I was a rich, hugely acredited scientist). Worked just fine for me. Infact, my car had SO MUCH low end torque, that i tore the motor mounts off in traffic. So i decided to always launch the car at redline wherever i went.

I'm sorry.

 

i got monkey ligaments in my knee nigggaaaa!!

 

Well, i have a d16y8, if that means anything ( slightly bigger intake manifold/tb? )
Yeah.. the difference between &gt;3000rpm and &lt;3000rpm was very very sharp.
I'd be driving it in the city and as soon as i started making power it was time to shift..
then i'd shift gears and boom.. powerless again..

I mean.. with a setup like this it would work just fine if you rev up to 4200rpm before you shift
every time.. but for driving in traffic, not so great.

And yes, d series.. not so great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neptronix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, i have a d16y8, if that means anything ( slightly bigger intake manifold/tb? )
Yeah.. the difference between &gt;3000rpm and &lt;3000rpm was very very sharp.
I'd be driving it in the city and as soon as i started making power it was time to shift..
then i'd shift gears and boom.. powerless again..

I mean.. with a setup like this it would work just fine if you rev up to 4200rpm before you shift
every time.. but for driving in traffic, not so great.

And yes, d series.. not so great </TD></TR></TABLE>

Again, really weird. My friend has a D16Y8 with a huge ricer intake (lol it's his daily). No problems. Except for that I may have cracked his transmission case...and he may have a DX trans in there now. hmm.....

 

uhhh. i dont really see how that has happened. i've tried a lot of intake combos and never had the problem you've had. oh well.

 

If all you did was take off the U shaped tube that goes into the finder well that is your whole problem!! If you take that tube off and all you have is the airbox then you are doing nothing but sucking up hot air coming off your transmission. Hot air equals no power!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RiceKillinSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If all you did was take off the U shaped tube that goes into the finder well that is your whole problem!! If you take that tube off and all you have is the airbox then you are doing nothing but sucking up hot air coming off your transmission. Hot air equals no power!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean like a short ram? The effects are still not usually that dramatic.

 

I've noticed this before too - 95 LX D15B I just put a filter on the end of the stock intake tube and after driving around town with the stock box for a while this made it noticably worse in low rpms. I don't do a whole lot of city driving so I am still using this setup but I might have to throw the stock box back on and give it a try again.

 

No.. taking off the U would be a ghetto short ram.. ha ha.
My ' u tube ' is a little loose though, since i took off the baffle. I don't think it's loose enough to mess up the intake air temps though. Before i put the k&n on, there was no real difference.. maybe a horsepower.

 

i took off the white plastic box and u pipe from behind the front bumber and just left the standard air box with a new k&n panel filter. car runs perfectly smooth no bogging down. power all thru the rev range. this is on a d16y4, exactly the same as the y8 just non vtec and longer gear ratios

 

Why dont you just spend some money and get a AEM or just some ghetto cheap ebay intake.

 

on a D series motor putting on, taking off, pipes, tubing, filters, dryer vents and hoses (whatever you ricers do), etc should not make a noticable difference

 

You could run absolutly no intake and it would probally run the same. I think your problem is coming from somewhere else.

 

I can say that I had a CAI and then a SRI on my D16Y8 (stock) and after replacing it (the SRI - CAI was stole) with a stock airbox with no lower resonator, the car has more bottom end.

Not a whole lot more power, but enough to be noticeable.