okay.. searched and found no good answer. I want to build a nasty set-up but for allmotor and daily. I was thinking b18 sleeved or b20b , went with the b20b and last piece i need are rods... now i'm having second thoughts and want to either sleeve the b20 or buy a dart block.. but wondering if thats way OVERKILL for allmotor with maybe a nice shot of spray every now and then.
currently i'm stil running my grs block(stock) w/ jg head. I know we dont have the same problems as we used to with sinking sleeves but i hear pro's and con's on sleeves, as far as the dart its dry set up, i hear you have to clean out or polish all the oil and water passages also that they dont line up due to cast imperfections etc..

any help?
ps: b20b sleeved would be with 84mm 12:1 cp pistons stock crank and im not going to lie i'm mostlikely going to rev to 8K on occasion..
if i dart it... then 86mm 12-12.5:1 c/r ...either one with gsr cnc'd head.

 

Did not know you could take a Dart block to 86mm. Do you need custom sleeves?

 

I didnt think about that DonF, its something i should look into!
In you honest opinion would you suggest just sleeving the b20b ?it'd be 84mm 12:1 , with Roberts M22xx, , or if its possible to get dart in 86mm would it be worth the xtra $ ? i already have everything for the b20b except for the rods, and IM.
I"m running a head Rocket got done for me its a gsr cnc'd.

 

86 mm is a bad idea for a street car. It probably will not last no longer than 10,000 miles. At that bore, the space between the cylinders will be to small for the head gasket to seal well and therefore, resulting in blown headgaskets.

 

yeah.. so far that's the only draw back i keep hearing about going that big .. its the headgasket.
I might end up going just sleeved b20b i guess.. not a whole lot of info on the dart and why its worth the extra money in an all motor app. for street.

 

If you want a large displacement motor, why not go H2B?

 

what is h2b? not up to times with alot of the things out there.

edit: found out what it is


Modified by AllMotoRex at 9:43 PM 8/19/2007

 

Nevemind did some search.. pretty interresting but i'd have to get a whole lot of other parts to make that work.. i already have a b18c in my crx obd1 and all.. already have a b20b in the basemant with a cnc head, w/ cp 12:1 c/r pistons eagle kit and all I need are the rods , but just had a change of heart and want to either sleeve it or was thinking of getting a Dart block but , now i've decided just to sleeve since its for allmotor daily.

 

I sleeved my b20 and it just gave me piece of mind. Looking in back on it though if I were to do it again I would have saved the money and just went with a block guard. Especially if you are just going with the stock bore. If you get a good tune you shouldnt have to worry about any sleeve issues with the b20.

 

I would do a sleeved block for 86mm.

 

In a recent issue of Honda Tuning they discuss the use of a Dart block over a sleeved block for their all motor setup.

According to HT, "If you look at a sleeved block, you can see where the sleeves butt togeter; they have flat areas on them where they meet. When you have materials of varying thicknesses, it expands at different rates. Consequently, as temps go up, the cylinders dont tend to stay round." The article also states, "When you sleeve a Honda block and you mill out the origional cylinders, it causes the bottom end of the block to relax and throws the mains out of alignment. When the sleeves are pressed in, it forces the mains to go even more out of alignment."
This is Larry Widmer of Endyn talking. Im not saying im right, im just quoting the article. It comes from May '07s Honda Tuning Issue.

 

i was just reading that article. i was also wondering is there really alot of problems with a sleeved block? is it good or bad to go with dart block for allmotor daily driven car? because im also looking into having my gsr block sleeved so i can bore it out to 84mm

 

For 86mm you have to go with a sleeved block. But I think the OP is going with an 84mm setup. I never had any problems with my block when I sleeved it. Everything seemed to stay inline pretty well, I constantly reved the poo out of it with no problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I never had any problems with my block when I sleeved it. Everything seemed to stay inline pretty well, I constantly reved the poo out of it with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
who sleeved your block?

 

Action Machine here in washington, with dart MID sleeves.

 

but also the dart block is sancasted according to the article , they added alum. to make the head match because it didnt match.. all the ports were polished/or ported , and it was stil lined etc.. wich made me not want to go through all that trouble since its hard to find a shop that'll do all the measuring to make sure the head matches up and all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vsmdc4teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In a recent issue of Honda Tuning they discuss the use of a Dart block over a sleeved block for their all motor setup.

According to HT, "If you look at a sleeved block, you can see where the sleeves butt togeter; they have flat areas on them where they meet. When you have materials of varying thicknesses, it expands at different rates. Consequently, as temps go up, the cylinders dont tend to stay round." The article also states, "When you sleeve a Honda block and you mill out the origional cylinders, it causes the bottom end of the block to relax and throws the mains out of alignment. When the sleeves are pressed in, it forces the mains to go even more out of alignment."
This is Larry Widmer of Endyn talking. Im not saying im right, im just quoting the article. It comes from May '07s Honda Tuning Issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Wouldn't an align bore after the sleeve job correct the misalignment of the mains?


Modified by kpowerdhatch at 4:46 PM 8/22/2007

 

Yes it seems like an align hone would fix any imperfections. However, when I sleeved my block I didnt have any problems with the mains.

 

ended up going with the sleeved block from eagle at 85mm.

 

for some reason some blocks are like that i guess if your block is seasoned enough the mains wont move out of alignment like some do, its the luck of the draw in my honest opinion the MID kits arent known for main bore disruption like the interference liners are known for anything interference-fit will always need a line hone...anyone else to add something to this??

 

the owner of endyn recommends dart blocks in honda tuning magazine a few months back. i dont have it on me but i think he was saying that the sleeves wont be perfectly straight on a sleeved honda block