What's wrong here? I just got a GSR that throws this code!? HELP! Thanks!

 

Obd1 or 2?

 

sensor in the dizzy housing...i have a genuine acura dizzy obd2a brand new..though i needed new one but it was another problem...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboeg831 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's wrong here? I just got a GSR that throws this code!? HELP! Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not sure but mine was throwing the same code when i got my d16y8 in my 92 hatch...

so im guessing that you have an obd2 gsr in a eg?

is that right?

 

It's actually a 94' B18C1 with Moroso Dizzy. When the code throws, my car bogs like CRAZY!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboeg831 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's actually a 94' B18C1 with Moroso Dizzy. When the code throws, my car bogs like CRAZY!</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah its the sensor inside the dizzy

 

How is it replaced? Is it easy?

 

Can anyone guide the way to solving my problem?

 

buy a new dizzy housing

 

Bump for results

 

Hey dude,
I am having the same issue. What did you figure out if anything?

 

i have a 91 civic si w/ obd0 that is throwing the same code. from what I read, all I got to do is replace the distributor cap, right? or do i need a whole new distributor. and would bad valve seals or a skip throw this code? or maybe is this sensor gone bad making my car skip..

 

you need to post all symptoms/problems you are having in order for us to more accurately help you but here's some info anyways:
1. Bad valve stem seals allow excessive oil in the combustion chamber and cause this oil to burn so you would see smoke as a sign of this. So NOT IT.
2. Distributor Cap - Visually inspect this for any cracks - if yes then replace it.
3. Distributor Rotor - Check for carbon deposits, if its all burned, replace it. Make sure the screw holding this is tight so rotor won't come off once you start the car.
4. Spark Plug Wires - In a dark place/garage open the hood and start the car. Look for any electric leaks along the wires, you'll see blue lightning like stuff if there are any leaks - if yes, replace wires.
5. Check Ignition timing using a Timing light - this could be off - use a repair manual to adjust it.
6. If all this checks out fine then unfortunately its the Cyl position sensor in your distributor housing that needs to be replaced - this is where I'm stuck at mainly because I'm stingy and wanna fix the distributor instead of replacing it but if you have the money then replace it - There is a proper and specific way of un-installing and re-installing a distributor so do it correctly if you end up replacing it.

 

My Civic was throwing the same code. I replaced the distributor and it's fine now. The old distributor had so much play in the shaft that it hit the sensor, wrecking it.

 

Theres 3 sensors in the distributor CKP, TDC, CYP. Those are not replacable. You can't order them from honda or any aftermarket auto store. they are built into the distributor. You need to get another distributor. Just go to a local junkyard or call haprecycling.com. I recommend a oem used one, I bought a rebuild one from haprecycling and within 2 months I went through 3 distributors. I finally told them to give me a used oem on or my money back. So far after 2.5 years I've had no problems with it. The only things replaceable on distributors are the caps, rotors, ignition module and coils.

 

thanks, guys!

 

I got the same problem code 9 CYP and code 1 O2 sensor on D16z6

 

i got the same probem on my obd1 ls swap in my 96 civic, my timing belt is a lttle streched, i think that could be a problem why that cel would go off.

 

Actually, the guts inside ARE replacable, it's just that nobody sells the guts seperate from the dizzy.
If anyone needs them I have internals from an OBD1 dizzy, plugs on one end, sensors on the other so you can replace the whole thing. IM me on offer if anyone wants it. It's not too hard to do the switch.

 

Nope. Replacing distributor did not resolve the problem. Drove it around and code 9 came right back. Check Engine light came on as soon as it missed. So here's some usefull info for D16A1 with code 9:

The Cylinder position/camshaft position sensor is located at the end of exhaust camshaft, next to the distributor. Code 9 on these motors reffers to this and not the distributor. So before you replace the distributor check this sensor. All electrical connections to it, normally its the connection and not the sensor itself. In my case the connector had some fluid in it and was shorting out. While the car was idling, I was checking the CYL sensor connector (green) to make sure it was plugged in all the way. I twisted the connector, engine missed, check engine light came on. So turned the car off, cleaned the wires and the connector, took the negative off the battery to reset the ECU, started the car, no code 9. Drove the car for about 65 miles, no code 9, new distributor does make it run very smooth though.

I'm sure other people got rid of this by replacing the distributor but after much research and troubleshooting, for me it ended up being the cyl sensor.

D16A1 Code 9:
1. Check Ignition Timing
2. Check CYL sensor and related wires/connectors- located at the end of exhaust cam, next to distributor

Thanks to my new best friend 'LUCKY' at Honda delaership, he got me this info.
I'll drive it around more for a few days and post a confirmation.


Modified by AK77 at 4:01 AM 10/28/2007

 

if you are getting cyp sensor code or the moter starts jerking while driving or tac drops to zero and motor dies get the distibuter changed my 92 Prelude was doing all the above then just died got new distributer all fixed dont wait and get stranded

 

Auto Zone has distributer with life time warranty for $137 w/tax alot better then dealer ship $361 plus tax

 

I have a sismilar problem but runs good at high rpm just bogs on idle cyp sensor is thrown.

 

I have a similar problemmcyp sensor throws when i push the clutch. But only during idle at high rev its fine. Its fine till it idles warms up then stalls at stop lights. any ideas?

 

I have the same problem and Im trying to figure it out.. Just threw in the jdm gsr in my ek hatch.. did the wiring myself.. before code 9 never showed up. Then I took off the caps for my spark plug wire to change the sparks but I didnt change it cuz I didnt have an extended 14 socket. So I put it back on and now this engine check like is on.. what does "bog" mean?? does that mean like rattling or idling to high which shakes the car or something?