some jerk put the wrong bolts on my rotor
i was trying to take my brake rotors off my 91 accord but it seems who ever did them last put the wrong bolts on the passenger side. the driver side has the stock 17 mm while the passenger side has 9/16 bolts. they're pretty crappy, they won't budge and one has started to round. I've tried using a breaker bar, by itself and with a two foot pipe. every thing else came off very easily. they're currently soaked with penetrating oil, again. i really have to get this job done asap because i need the car for work. if any one has any idea please tell. here are some pictures
driver side
passenger side
driver side
passenger side
If you have to use the car tomorrow for work, I'd probably leave the rotors alone and just slap the pads until you can afford to have the car down. You do know that these are encapsulated rotors right? The rotor comes off from the backside of the hub. The hub/rotor have to be removed together.
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Remove the caliper/bracket. Remove the axle from the hub. On the backside of the knuckle there are four twelve point 10mm bolts that hold the bearing assy/hub. Remove those bolts. Insert two extra long bolts of the same diameter/thread pitch in holes opposite from eachother in a diagonal manner. I believe they are 10mm 1.25 pitch. Smack the tips of the bolts alternating from one bolt to the other. This should work the hub/bearing assembly from the knuckle.
You can also just remove the four twelve point bolts and smack the backside of the hub/bearing assy through the large hole in the backside of the knuckle and get it to come out.
The purpose of doing it this way is to keep from having to seperate the bearing and it saves a ton of time.
Then remove the four bolts on the front of the rotor and you can take the rotor off the backside of the hub.
This procedure sounds more of a pain in the *** than it really is. Just be prepared to have your car down if something goes wrong. I also can't be held responsible if you ruin your car since most resources don't suggest doing the job this way.
You can also just remove the four twelve point bolts and smack the backside of the hub/bearing assy through the large hole in the backside of the knuckle and get it to come out.
The purpose of doing it this way is to keep from having to seperate the bearing and it saves a ton of time.
Then remove the four bolts on the front of the rotor and you can take the rotor off the backside of the hub.
This procedure sounds more of a pain in the *** than it really is. Just be prepared to have your car down if something goes wrong. I also can't be held responsible if you ruin your car since most resources don't suggest doing the job this way.
I feel your pain. I am changing out my rotors and it has turned ugly. It took 50 tons of pressure to separate the wheel bearing from the knuckle.
Anyway, when I removed my axle nut, I used a six foot piece of one inch iron pipe to get enough torque on that nut. Get yourself a longer pipe to use on those nuts. Also get yourself guaranteed tools to use so they are replaced when you break them. I busted a 3/8s and 1/2 Craftsman ratchets doing my extended brake job. By extended I mean replacing the struts, rotors, calipers, pads, wheel bearing, and axles.
Anyway, when I removed my axle nut, I used a six foot piece of one inch iron pipe to get enough torque on that nut. Get yourself a longer pipe to use on those nuts. Also get yourself guaranteed tools to use so they are replaced when you break them. I busted a 3/8s and 1/2 Craftsman ratchets doing my extended brake job. By extended I mean replacing the struts, rotors, calipers, pads, wheel bearing, and axles.
if you do get to the point where you strip it ge tthe rounded off socket set thats made for rounded off nuts and bolts
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